tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13515402615370759982024-03-27T01:59:15.157-07:00Voyages of Yacht KikaYacht Kikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18117916448260766621noreply@blogger.comBlogger50125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-23702270734055434352019-07-18T12:43:00.002-07:002019-07-18T12:43:57.863-07:00Falmouth back to Conwy<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Just to recap on a little bit of the journey , now Kika is safely back on her mooring in the Conwy River.<div>
We had a fleeting visit to Falmouth which was basking in the sunshine. The Pendennis Shipyard looked a bit empty, but the pubs and restaurants were full and there were quite a few young live a boards in the harbour, making a precarious living but fed up with the rat race of city life. It was good to see them crammed like sardines on some old boats. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
We rounded the lizard the next day to arrive in Newlyn , a proper Cornish fishing town where local people can still afford a house and all the pubs have pictures of Trawlers and local people. It's also the home of the famous Penlee lifeboat , whose predecessor the Solomon Brown was lost trying to rescue the crew from a cargo ship that had run onto the rocks in horrendous seas. The present Coxn is the son of the Coxn who lost his life on that cruel night. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The fishermen put us straight on the best time to get to the Runnel Stone buoy to get the early tide around Lands end on the inner passage. Conditions were good , but with a tidal race the Bishop Rock light would be a treacherous place in bad weather. I was quite apprehensive about the 120 mile passage up to Milford Haven as the wind was on the nose. We were able to tack out towards Ireland and use a tide sweeping us in a NE direction to get a heading for Waterford in Ireland. At about 10pm the tide turned to sweep us out of the Bristol Channel and by a stroke of luck the wind backed round to the NW allowing us to lay a course for Milford Haven on the other tack. Pete cooked up an excellent Pasta for supper despite the rough sea and we eat watching the sun go down over an azure sea. Just like the tropics! During the night we were joined by a school of porpoises . One could see them quite clearly as they came alongside because of the phosphorescence in the water. Above there was no moon , so all the constellations and the Milky Way stood out very clearly. We had a 3 hours on , 3 hours off watch system which worked well. However when we finally docked into Milford after a 26 hour passage we were all cream crackerd . Fraser and Nigel left us for North Wales swapping cars with Glyn who kindly joined us and loaned them the car for the journey home to North Wales.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
After doing the long passage we had an easy time of it going through Jack and Ramsy sound to arrive in Fishguard. We had waited for the tide through Jack Sound by anchoring off Skomer Island ,an RSPB reserve where there is a thriving enormous population of puffins who took great interest in the inedible dog fish Pete was pulling up on a rod and line. We anchored in Fishguard Bay at night, working out the tidal heights, as Pete never fails to remind me of the last time we were there and picked up a mooring which caused our keel to touch the bottom in the night. When you go on your side the important thing is to remember to close the seacocks!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
On past the sleepy Pemrokesire and Carmarthenshire coastline to take the channel into Aberystwyth Marina. Aberystwyth is its own place cut off by the mountains and the sea. On the bridge there is a plaque to commemorate the first protest by Cymdeithas Iaith Cymraeg in support of the Welsh Language. The town itself is an ancient seat of learning , a holiday resort and a home to loads of retired hippies and artists. There are lovely forgotten about corners, pubs serving a wide selection of real ales and a distinctly unfashionable air to the whole place which makes it so attractive.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
On to Pwlleli which has a vey narrow channel and then a harder day tacking into the wind to catch the tide for Bardsey sound which we shot through at over 10 knots. The were overfalls in the middle of the sound which creates a sort of washing machine effect. No good if you are cooking!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The Porth Dinllaen lifeboat with its enormous engines came alongside us for half an hour to point out towing points on a sailing vessel to the crew. The tide had turned against us by then and we were tempted to ask them to put theory into practise.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
From Porth Dinllaen we crossed Ceararfon Bar in rather poor visibility and a moderate swell to whistle up the beautiful Menai straights. Glyn helmed very competently through the narrows swellies where there is a whole catalogue of vessels that came to grief not following the leading marks. Our last night was spend moored to the pontoon at Menai Bridge dining out on lovely fish at Dillon's restaurant. A 6 am start brought us accross the swatch and into Conwy at high water at 9 am whereIain Mitchell was there to greet us. It was good to be home</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Yacht Kikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18117916448260766621noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-156418330971571682019-07-10T03:50:00.001-07:002019-07-10T03:50:33.870-07:00Weymouth to North Wales<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
As I write this we are sitting waiting for the tide in Pwllheli surrounded by oyster catchers and curlews. It's been a mad week making up time to get the boat back on schedule.<br />
We left Weymouth on a spring tide to get round Portland Bill early in the morning. We passed Portland Prison, a lonely building isolated on the Bill, and took the inside passage to avoid the tidal overfalls. It means being within shouting distance of someone standing on the rocks. A fair tide took us accross Lyme Bay and we were just able to lay Dartmouth on a W/ Nw breeze. Fraser Longbone joined us in Weymouth and helmed the boat like an arrow until he succumbed to mal de met, a common first day hazard.<br />
Dartmouth is a beautiful place and we had a beer in the towns oldest pub, with not a straight line in the building. My son Jack was locked up in the Brittania Royal Naval College doing forced marches and the Royal Navy Fitness Test or so he claimed and was unable to get down for a beer.<br />
<br />
We sailed round Start Point to the Queen Anne's battery in Plymouth. We heard the large carrier Queen Elizabeth warning nearby ships about its air operations so presumably the sailors can stop throwing darts off the flight deck as the government has bought some planes.<br />
<br />
Have just lost the next 5 paragraphs so will have to fill in the gaps another time!Suffice to say after a hard passage overnight from Newlyn to Milford Haven of some 120 miles against a headwind we are now meandering back peacefully through Wales to be home by Friday 12 July hopefully.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oBwiR1RlbOA/XSXBm6S_ZPI/AAAAAAAAApU/68hxOalc_vQ69xWsMVp71ZDN9ri4FKwewCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oBwiR1RlbOA/XSXBm6S_ZPI/AAAAAAAAApU/68hxOalc_vQ69xWsMVp71ZDN9ri4FKwewCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hurst point just off the needles channel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uynBzHcpzL8/XSXBmzd18CI/AAAAAAAAApQ/ZC6UOCo3Xt0-IBLV5Ax6nY-339VeahBOQCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uynBzHcpzL8/XSXBmzd18CI/AAAAAAAAApQ/ZC6UOCo3Xt0-IBLV5Ax6nY-339VeahBOQCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete and Glyn on their usual " shopping run " ashore</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mp0tgT7XQh4/XSXBnOW26sI/AAAAAAAAApY/onxhasMzw3sbAY-rIyBEqlst6iVWV_YEQCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mp0tgT7XQh4/XSXBnOW26sI/AAAAAAAAApY/onxhasMzw3sbAY-rIyBEqlst6iVWV_YEQCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete and Glynn having a lovely time in Aberystwyth </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
Yacht Kikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18117916448260766621noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-24352627385153339042019-06-30T10:49:00.001-07:002019-06-30T10:53:56.901-07:00Harwich to Weymouth<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We stayed at the very comfortable Royal Norfolk and Suffolk yacht club in Harwich with a fabulous Edwardian Clubhouse, and a loo cistern made of copper with a Latin inscription. In the opinion of some club members things had gone to the dogs as only the cistern itself was polished and not the copper pipes coming off it. Dave and Andy went home after surviving a lot of sailing . Nigel Clay and Richard Lewis arrived raring for action. We crossed the narrow channels of the Thames Estuary, cutting a few corners when the wind was on the nose and watching the depth sounder anxiously. We spotted the North Foreland of Kent and the tide took us round to Ramsgate. It's a seaside town that's had a revival with artists , quirky shops, and naval history all cheek by jowl. The gunpowder stores for the fleet were stored in caves burrowed into the Rock above the harbour. Mr Grayling has recently had the channel dredged in preparation for a no deal Brexit, and we nearly ran aground on some uncharted spoil just outside the main channel!<br />
<br />
A short hop to Dover where we were visited by old Friends Jane and Richard Phillips together with Janes younger sister whom I hadn't seen for over 40 years. ,it was great to catch up. We visited a micro pub where you could have any local Kentish wine or beer , got a kiss from the landlady on arrival and woe betide you if your mobile phone went off. Verboten!<br />
<br />
On to Sovereign Harbour Eastbourne in a stiff 25 knot Easterly with the mainsaIl on a preventer and the foresail poled out goose winged, trade wind style. My cousin Stephen ,his wife Annemarita and my Aunty Marjorie came aboard for drinks . Stephen is the doctor on the Easbourne lifeboat , and we had a poke round as she was berthed next to us. The engines are enormous and deafening when the throttle is opened.<br />
<br />
Another windy day along the Sussex Coast past Brighton saw us speeding along and going up the small boat channel to Haslar Marina ,Portsmouth where we had a very pleasant fish supper on a retired lightship in the harbour. Amazing to think that there was a crew of 7-8 men just to maintain the light and do a few weather observations. It's all automatic now!<br />
<br />
Friday's run with the tide allowed us to shoot out of the needles channel like a cork out of a bottle and anchor peacefully up the South Channel in Poole Harbour on a very hot day. It was lovely having dinner on deck and then a musical session watching the sun slowly set. Went for a swim off the boat . The water was quite warm.<br />
<br />
On Saturday We Rounded St Albans Head and rafter up to a number of other yachts in Weymouth harbour which was packed with tourists enjoying the sun. On inspecting the engine we found that the alternator belt was cracked and hanging by a thread. Wouldn't have been good if that had happened at sea! After a bit of huffing and puffing we fitted a replacement and I went up the mast the next day to fix the anchor light on which we finally found a poor connection at the bulb.<br />
<br />
Richard leaves us tonight after a tough weeks sailing which he survived very well with no seasickness, and we will be joined by Fraser Longbone ready for a long sail around the notorious Portland Bill with its tide races and accross Lyme Bay to Dartmouth tomorrow.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ipadW09Xab0/XRj0qMbt9XI/AAAAAAAAAoo/tUW57aE4_KM-vUZzyB25DWZLVZWLT-9fwCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ipadW09Xab0/XRj0qMbt9XI/AAAAAAAAAoo/tUW57aE4_KM-vUZzyB25DWZLVZWLT-9fwCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Needles Channel on a lovely sunny morning</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4OFnSnH3kSY/XRj0qzRmj8I/AAAAAAAAAow/Xaw0RbcD0NcatW6hOqRY8bKrGtpnVvtqgCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4OFnSnH3kSY/XRj0qzRmj8I/AAAAAAAAAow/Xaw0RbcD0NcatW6hOqRY8bKrGtpnVvtqgCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Richard enjoying a sundowner on the anchorage in Poole Harbour</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3DpDxg8OCBY/XRj0usg69OI/AAAAAAAAAo0/d_NvzVxzKmYooebI0XEwcMwIBiinKJIOgCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3DpDxg8OCBY/XRj0usg69OI/AAAAAAAAAo0/d_NvzVxzKmYooebI0XEwcMwIBiinKJIOgCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The alternator belt - split in 2 places and hanging by a thread</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-19c6gYdphYA/XRj0qvE3XPI/AAAAAAAAAos/pnuYWAR2qdYGqi-GiG0K6Mhb2NOsYqoDwCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-19c6gYdphYA/XRj0qvE3XPI/AAAAAAAAAos/pnuYWAR2qdYGqi-GiG0K6Mhb2NOsYqoDwCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br />
<br /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wells harbour near the sea and a Norfolk Wherry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
Yacht Kikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18117916448260766621noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-9570681038738727872019-06-22T07:48:00.002-07:002019-06-22T07:48:55.625-07:00Down the East Coast<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
As soon as the wind moderated on Thurday afternoon we left Blyth. The swell was fairly heavy after the gales, but we passed the busy shipping in the Tyne and arrived on the dirty river Weir and docked at Sunderland Marina. The town looked a bit depressed with plenty of people of working age hanging about "helping" with the boats.<br />
<br />
Friday saw us meandering down to Hartlepool on the tide. The town has had a real boost from the arrival of the Tricomalee ( a Trafagar era Frigate ) and the museum of the Royal Navy. The Frigate survived the breakers yard because she was built in Bombay from Burmese Teak which is incredibly resistant to Rot. Her sister ship the Indefegatible was blown up in the channel in 1947 and scuttled with the Fench and British Ensigns flying while thee last post was played. No money then to restore old ships! The was a graphic video showing the miserable life of pressed men in Nelson's Navy. "A floating prison with a good chance of being drowned". Of course Kikas 'crew especially the first mate thought that they had it easy compared with life on a Rival 38.<br />
<br />
In the evenings it's fun being a fly on the wall on the strip a row of bars and restaurants along the waterfront. Lasses from the North East defy the climate and parade up and down in scimpy outfits to be approached by fellas in waistcoats with slicked back hair. The beers cheap too!<br />
<br />
On Saturday we said goodbye to Glyn and Gerry who have kept everyone entertained despite 3 days holed up in Blyth, and hello to Andy Grace and David North Coombes both old pals from my year in medical school. Our next stop was Whitby where Andy and I had sailed our 21 foot Corribee almost 40 years ago. The harbour is busier now with more tourists and the stem train now comes all the way from Goatland on the North York Moors line into Whiby itself, a splendid sight. We managed to get some twig debris sucked into the water intake which resulted in a steaming engin when we arrived At our berth. Several hours of huddling around later managed to ram a load of compressed wood out of the intake seacock.<br />
I have just managed to lose the following 4 paragraphs by a feat of spectacular technical incompetence ie not saving! Suffice to say it's time for a beer so to summarise we had a great time travelling through Scarborough, Bridlintonwhere we had an exiting night drying out, Grimbsby where the beer was cheap andWells next to the sea( very picturesque) and now we are safely ensconced in the Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club at Lowestoft a venerable old institution with friendly members and have said goodbye to Dave and Andy who have been brilliant company and even claim to have enjoyed themselves.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tM_DdSBFPxY/XQ4W1eZnLnI/AAAAAAAAAoE/YqNyv9dwlIU-WqlDXZjEG5_creqDfyv9gCEwYBhgL/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tM_DdSBFPxY/XQ4W1eZnLnI/AAAAAAAAAoE/YqNyv9dwlIU-WqlDXZjEG5_creqDfyv9gCEwYBhgL/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andy's steam train which got to Whitby</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y0O0b8KAd3U/XQ4W1z_o58I/AAAAAAAAAoA/gS5qOwvbqIcMjl9MAL9pCAaY-orXqqEFgCEwYBhgL/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y0O0b8KAd3U/XQ4W1z_o58I/AAAAAAAAAoA/gS5qOwvbqIcMjl9MAL9pCAaY-orXqqEFgCEwYBhgL/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave and Andy look towards Flamborough Head from Scarborough </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4wLiyXe-ioI/XQ4XCYkiszI/AAAAAAAAAoI/rCvMXxH3NhonccyuCZoRTgqu3uDQCK0KwCEwYBhgL/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4wLiyXe-ioI/XQ4XCYkiszI/AAAAAAAAAoI/rCvMXxH3NhonccyuCZoRTgqu3uDQCK0KwCEwYBhgL/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flamborough Head</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TNIAoBz8wy4/XQ4W2Crm9HI/AAAAAAAAAoE/nj4xv5XUX8QLHIcjWiDfAejfYTNkiKVvgCEwYBhgL/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TNIAoBz8wy4/XQ4W2Crm9HI/AAAAAAAAAoE/nj4xv5XUX8QLHIcjWiDfAejfYTNkiKVvgCEwYBhgL/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old market hall in Scarborough<br /><br /><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
K<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4wLiyXe-ioI/XQ4XCYkiszI/AAAAAAAAAoI/rCvMXxH3NhonccyuCZoRTgqu3uDQCK0KwCEwYBhgL/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4wLiyXe-ioI/XQ4XCYkiszI/AAAAAAAAAoI/rCvMXxH3NhonccyuCZoRTgqu3uDQCK0KwCEwYBhgL/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ooWfocYko4c/XQ4XDPak7zI/AAAAAAAAAoM/zHkq7KONbMYDAQYLBT6_pbj6pbXsPJ0_wCEwYBhgL/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ooWfocYko4c/XQ4XDPak7zI/AAAAAAAAAoM/zHkq7KONbMYDAQYLBT6_pbj6pbXsPJ0_wCEwYBhgL/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tM_DdSBFPxY/XQ4W1eZnLnI/AAAAAAAAAns/3yw6gguluZInTDyZLiVOVJBZH3aqKRaWACLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tM_DdSBFPxY/XQ4W1eZnLnI/AAAAAAAAAns/3yw6gguluZInTDyZLiVOVJBZH3aqKRaWACLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y0O0b8KAd3U/XQ4W1z_o58I/AAAAAAAAAnw/g-GNaWtjQfYN3-Xzy7cxhDj2SE0Jhbs3wCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y0O0b8KAd3U/XQ4W1z_o58I/AAAAAAAAAnw/g-GNaWtjQfYN3-Xzy7cxhDj2SE0Jhbs3wCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TNIAoBz8wy4/XQ4W2Crm9HI/AAAAAAAAAn0/ioCq6y8HonwOPiPw3iTJQPfuar9RKUTwgCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TNIAoBz8wy4/XQ4W2Crm9HI/AAAAAAAAAn0/ioCq6y8HonwOPiPw3iTJQPfuar9RKUTwgCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4wLiyXe-ioI/XQ4XCYkiszI/AAAAAAAAAn4/xUSaChrh8gEKeP2UCLcc-ZbbrBJ58mUSgCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4wLiyXe-ioI/XQ4XCYkiszI/AAAAAAAAAn4/xUSaChrh8gEKeP2UCLcc-ZbbrBJ58mUSgCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ooWfocYko4c/XQ4XDPak7zI/AAAAAAAAAn8/kxC42MQQVkImJJBuEPGAWGqbGI6am3eqACLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ooWfocYko4c/XQ4XDPak7zI/AAAAAAAAAn8/kxC42MQQVkImJJBuEPGAWGqbGI6am3eqACLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
Yacht Kikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18117916448260766621noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-63343463121021177052019-06-13T05:33:00.001-07:002019-06-13T05:33:12.974-07:00Crossing the Border<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Iain,Cat and Ian set off in a hired car for North Wales on Saturday morning, to be replaced by Gerry O' Donoghue and Glyn Jones who geared up for an early morning departure to Eyemouth 47 miles away. It was a lovely morning with a crisp blue sky and initially good progress across the Tay Estuary and past Fife Ness where we were greeted by a number of puffins off the Isle of May. These lovely birds fly off when the boat comes close flapping their wings rapidly and trailing their red legs behind them. My uncle Alfred rescued one from a fishing net off this coast many years ago. Perhaps we were watching his descendants. Progress across the Forth was slow because the foul tide kicked in, but at 6 pm we passed St Abbs head where an Air Sea Rescue of a diver was in progress. We could hear the worry in the dive boat skippers voice as he reported the casualty initially unresponsive and in the water followed by relief as he was recovered on board and started to respond. The helicopter arrived promptly and winched him up to take him to Aberdeen Royal Infirmary where there is a decompression chamber.<br />
<br />
At Eyemouth we ratfted up outside 2 other boats and after dinner on board walked into the town. There is a very large Georgian Building owned by a Mr Nisbet who conducted a huge smuggling operation while posing as a respected local merchant! It was ever thus. We took a walk accross the seafront and watched the sun set at around 10.45.<br />
<br />
Monday meant another long run to Blyth of around 45 miles. We took the inner channel between Holy Island and the Farne Islands which were covered in Guano from the large bird colony. Seals ,Gannets, Terns , Guillimots and Puffins circled around us as we passed the monastery on Holy Islad and Grace Darlings lighthouse on the Farne Islands. Her rescue of shipwrecked Mariners was the inspiration for today's life boat institution. The wind kicked in later in the day and we made good progress to Blyth , a large port and the headquarters of the Royal Northumberland Yacht Club, whose headquarters is a converted lightship in the Marina. There was a fantastic folk concert going on and we were made to feel very welcome.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately we have been storm bound for three days. 30 knot winds and lashing waves meant Kika was pinned onto an exposed visitors pontoon. We managed to scrounge around for more fenders as ours were taking a hammering and eventually during a lull in the weather took Kika round to a less exposed berth on Wednesday evening where we had a much more comfortable night.<br />
<br />
We have had a day out in Newcastle where we toured the castle a solid Norman Keep designed to be a stronghold for dealing with rebellious northerners and marauding Scots. In fact to be safe in Northumberland during those turbulent times it was advisable to live in one of the numerous castles or fortified towers if you were a farmer. Such a peaceful county now with very friendly people. The Victoians built their famous railway and road bridge across the Tyne straight through the lower part of the castle Bailey splitting it in two, and the local newly formed antiquarian society just saved the keep! We also visited the cathedral where Admiral Collingwood a local man who completed Nelson's historic victory at Trafalgar is commemorated. Poor chap, he was never allowed a retirement and died at sea at the age of 62. There is also a rich merchants home, where his daughter Bessie jumped out of a first storey window and eloped with the son of a coal merchant. She obviously saw something in him her disapproving parents hadn't as he went on to become a lawyer and Lord Chancellor of England. today Thursday the weather is still bad and we are hoping for an improvement this evening to take us down to Sunderland.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-93ZvSsumUmQ/XQI_vmYKZOI/AAAAAAAAAmY/z8XjdsW9kBEq3Jc3XkOQC7xCmVjvZYxvACLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-93ZvSsumUmQ/XQI_vmYKZOI/AAAAAAAAAmY/z8XjdsW9kBEq3Jc3XkOQC7xCmVjvZYxvACLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gerry in charge with the helm on autopilot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JqWX9pecIVk/XQI_vxNJsJI/AAAAAAAAAmg/uiTZaeJwOlE01sDhs-sGN8EFD0ZnUCA3ACLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JqWX9pecIVk/XQI_vxNJsJI/AAAAAAAAAmg/uiTZaeJwOlE01sDhs-sGN8EFD0ZnUCA3ACLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Eyemouth home of the respectable smuggler Mr Nisbet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-68W19J0OBJg/XQI_v7tHiuI/AAAAAAAAAmc/QuVtpF0tb3Q8ZO2n63yGtIgDCth4_lKhACLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-68W19J0OBJg/XQI_v7tHiuI/AAAAAAAAAmc/QuVtpF0tb3Q8ZO2n63yGtIgDCth4_lKhACLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br /><br /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Signets taking a ride on Mum's back<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nj2HZQ8sKiM/XQI_1AUhZsI/AAAAAAAAAmo/CF9Nshf0YLAvc0Ku9gzvRSUmoCrc7zXpACLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nj2HZQ8sKiM/XQI_1AUhZsI/AAAAAAAAAmo/CF9Nshf0YLAvc0Ku9gzvRSUmoCrc7zXpACLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Gerry Pete and Glyn with Holy Island in the background</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gZQNWUEcn44/XQI_1M-W1dI/AAAAAAAAAmk/fAaOFWZSDtIFkpK3aUftvpotYafIejeVQCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gZQNWUEcn44/XQI_1M-W1dI/AAAAAAAAAmk/fAaOFWZSDtIFkpK3aUftvpotYafIejeVQCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Arriving in Blyth next</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
door to a cable laying ship</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KqNxk6OV-aE/XQI_1Tcg-aI/AAAAAAAAAms/8sdebyOZH6g1Q2XJOvmFDmKQGeqLG37oQCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KqNxk6OV-aE/XQI_1Tcg-aI/AAAAAAAAAms/8sdebyOZH6g1Q2XJOvmFDmKQGeqLG37oQCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Bessie Surtees who picked a good 'un</div>
<br />
<br /></div>
Yacht Kikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18117916448260766621noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-7024282299058414992019-06-07T09:41:00.001-07:002019-06-07T10:11:42.920-07:00Nairn to Arbroath<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The sun came out as we left Nairn to travel along the South shore of the Moray Firth. The wind was a gentle Southerly giving us a flat sea, and a beam reach at 6 -7 knots. We passed the village of Cullen where the famous Scottish Broth Cullen Skink was invented. Another journey up the mast in the morning has finally sorted out the foresail roller which is now working perfectly as is the ship's toilet which required a little work on the siphon grommet. Our original destination was Buckie a fishing town known as " The dump " by the locals we met. However we were doing so well we carried on to the little port of Whitehills where we were greeted by the harbourmaster Mr Bertie Milne who had taken some pictures of us coming in and presented us with the camera SD card to download the images. We had landed on our feet. Whitehills is a bonny little village originally surviving on the fishing trade, but as boats got bigger with more horse power to catch more fish, small harbours like Whitehills were only suitable for the crab and lobster men , and the yachties filled the gap. Bertie an ex fisherman himself made us very welcome and generously donated the harbour fee to St Kentigerns. We stayed in Whitehiils for two nights as we were storm bound with 30 knot winds at the masthead on Tuesday. We walked over to the neighbouring village of Banff, which had some substantial merchants houses built on the trade with Northern Europe , the herrings and not forgetting smuggling which was rife in the 18th and 19th centuries. The Seafield Arms in Whitehills was crammed with photos of trawlers and provided a very good fish supper. All the locals were jolly and enjoyed living where they did despite the winters.<br />
<br />
Tuesday saw us rounding the notorious Rattray Head in calm conditions to arrive in the busy port of Peterhead. The North Sea supply vessels with their helicopter landing pads were enormous, they arrived on one tide had supplies craned on and left for the oil rigs on the next. Overhead Sikorski Helicopters buzzed taking crew on and off rigs . There is now a marina just under the old prison which was always a tough place . The prisoners specialised in rooftop protests and would often<br />
feature on National TV . It must have been cold on that roof! I'd have been begging to come down.<br />
<br />
We pressed on with the tide to the pretty port of Stonehaven, where we found a reasonably sheltered berth along the harbour wall. There was quite a lot of swell particularly at low water . Our snatch block on the shrouds , took a bit of a hammering , but a nearby yacht was snatching to and from and broke some lines in the night.<br />
<br />
Thursday's run from Stonehaven to Arbroath, went well apart from starting off with the main halliard wrapped around the radar dome. We returned briefly to harbour to sort it out as the swell had the mast rotating through 15 feet and Iain sensibly vetoed me going up the mast at sea. It was so much easier to sort it once the boat was not moving. We had our first sea Haar or fog bank off Montrose and picked up anchored tankers and a rock quite well on the radar. The cloud cleared and for the last couple of hours beat into a SW breeze at 7 knots with the tide to pick up the leading lights into<br />
Arbroath Harbour amidst a sea of lobster pots. Impossible at night.<br />
<br />
Arbroath is the home of the famous smokies. The harbour is quite busy with fishing vessels. It's quite a poor town now with some fairly rough pubs , however you can see from the buildings that there was plenty of money when the trade in "silver darlings" (herrings) was in a full flood. As it's a diversion to go up the Tay to Dundee we are staying till Monday in Arbroath and went into Dundee on the train today to visit the new V&A museum at the waterfront and see the Scottish Design Exhibition. The museum is free and a big boost to the city of Dundee which is gradually recovering from the collapse of the Jute trade. The town centre is now pedestrianised and a big improvement on what I remembered , the old buildings positively gleamed in the sun.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3tPzPfriHuY/XPqR5hccZnI/AAAAAAAAAlo/FU3zcKGTOscpTptJjSHIxR-Gj-6WWM76wCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3tPzPfriHuY/XPqR5hccZnI/AAAAAAAAAlo/FU3zcKGTOscpTptJjSHIxR-Gj-6WWM76wCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kika arrives at Whitehills courtesy of Bertie Milne</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VYa7QB4Ky-I/XPqR6nhultI/AAAAAAAAAls/gv_Adb1l9tg_Xg2zYAo4gv-PVxwUT7HzQCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VYa7QB4Ky-I/XPqR6nhultI/AAAAAAAAAls/gv_Adb1l9tg_Xg2zYAo4gv-PVxwUT7HzQCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain Cat and Ian ready with the lines</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E4jjEK9NDg4/XPqR9qbl7qI/AAAAAAAAAl0/R-6QAP2vRrQPdUFeSIVYR4OWrqDZJ7S4wCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E4jjEK9NDg4/XPqR9qbl7qI/AAAAAAAAAl0/R-6QAP2vRrQPdUFeSIVYR4OWrqDZJ7S4wCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our storm hole at Whitehills</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-49TXftPiBR0/XPqR7FqD1xI/AAAAAAAAAlw/AZ1iHaMt6XAYp1eXE690jlF4TEXzILAYwCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="856" data-original-width="1280" height="214" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-49TXftPiBR0/XPqR7FqD1xI/AAAAAAAAAlw/AZ1iHaMt6XAYp1eXE690jlF4TEXzILAYwCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our mate the gannet who told us we were an hour wrong on the tide</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
Yacht Kikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18117916448260766621noreply@blogger.com40tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-52855820928977186762019-06-02T02:06:00.003-07:002019-06-02T02:06:37.504-07:00Loch Ness to Nairn<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Loch Ness is a mysterious place. It's so deep that it has more water in it than all the lakes in England and Wales put together. The echo sounder often loses the bottom and bounces off a fish 2 metres down at which the crew cry Nessie!<br />
The winds funnel off the steep hillsides coming from different direction in a katabatic fashion, with water cascading off large waterfalls to keep the glacial valley topped up.<br />
We Anchored off Urquhart Castle besieged and occupied by Robert the Bruce in the 14 th century, he looked in vain for cobwebs to get further advice from his mate the spider, but it's too windy a spot.<br />
Managed to blow the main fuse on the boat by hitting the up button on the anchor controls with the anchor attached. For some reason the breaker sŵitch failed to work.<br />
We spent a very pleasant night and reminiced after a chicken curry , followed by port and cheese. It was like being back in our Medical School , now sadly disappeared under a block of new flats.<br />
<br />
Out of Loch Ness and into the salubrious gardens of Inverness, Europe's fastest growing city , a very well heeled town where they pride themselves on their diction and articulation. I don't think the queen speaking sounds quite the same!<br />
<br />
We spent the morning in the seaport basin ,fueling up , water on board and scrubbing ourselves down until we donned oilies on a foul afternoon to go out through the sea lock , under the Inverness Bridge and raced accross Inverness Firth to just beat the tide at Fort George an impressive structure guarding The seaport of Inverness from French or Jacobite Invasion. The weather was dricht as the say in Scotland with rain and the wind on the nose .We passed the Black Isle named because snow never lies on it in winter making it look black in contrast to the surrounding countryside. We tacked up the Sothern Coast of the Cromarty Firth watching large colonies of seals on the beaches followed by dolphins leaping into the air to try and drive the fish towards the boat which they were using as part of their hunting circle. We arrived at Nairn harbour in the gloom to wait for enough water to take us through the very narrow channel. There was supposed to be a waiting buoy according to the Almanac. All we could find on the spot was a flag and buoy named channel marker which we attached ourselves to with some difficulty losing a boat hook and broom in the process. The harbourmaster came out to look at his lobster pots and told us the buoy had been removed some years ago and that we were in danger of dragging the buoy. On his advice we waited a further half hour till 1 hour before high water( not 3 hours as it saiid in the pilot) and followed him gingerly up the very narrow channel. The depth sounder was reading 0 metres under the keel! It was good to get the heater on , go below and dry out with a gin and tonic followed by chille con carne into which John had put a level tablespoon of chile powder. We became very warm inside too!<br />
<br />
Nairn is near the site of the battle of Culloden where the Duke of Cumberland dispatched Bonny Prince Charlie's highlanders with ruthless efficiency The highlanders were exhausted after a night spent walking to Nairn where they planned to night ambush the Dukes men. Unfortunately by the time they reached the camp it was dawn which meant withdrawal in the pouring rain a further 12 miles to Colloden Moor on starvation rations. The Dukes men well fed and watered, killed most of them with accurate cannon work and grapeshot before they had a chance to charge with their dirks , Targes and Claymore's . Cumberlands men had worked out how to bayonet them from the side. The highlanders are buried in huge pits on the battle site with no gravestones apart from an attempt by the Victorians to name the clans. The Duke was known as Butcher Cumberland not because of the battle, but as a result of the savage repression that followed with rape pillage and murder from troops left to their own devices . The clearances followed and the clan system was mercilessly crushed. Colloden is a sobering place to visit.<br />
<br />
On Friday evening we were visited by Johns's daughter Lucy and her husband and her husband Stewart together with their two children Freddy (5 ) Hattie (2). Freddy celebrated his 5th Birthday on Board with candles and a caterpillar cake and a good time was had by all.<span style="font-size: 13px;">since leaving the Isle of Mann we have been in a blog blackout , mainly due to my inability to source enough bandwidth to download photos.</span><span style="font-size: 13px;">since leaving the Isle of Mann we have been in a blog blackout , mainly due to my inability to source enough bandwidth to download photos.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
Joined later that evening by new crew Ian and Cat Fearn together with Ian Mitchell. John and Ceri had departed to hot showers and creature comforts at Lucy's hose before flying home on Sunday. Pete Quilliam arrives tonight<br />
<br />
Up the mast again in the morning. I think I have got the Genoa wrap sorted. It's not much fun when you can't furl a sail in bad conditions . Joined Iain inmy favourite place on the boat to sort out a siphon valve that was allowing the toilet to flood. Life on a small yacht is full of snags that will bite you badly if you don't sort them out.<br />
<br />
We plan to leave for the fishing port of Buckie tomorrow shortly before high water which will Hopefully allow us to avoid running aground.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NMirGNZS5yc/XPKuGvxudTI/AAAAAAAAAk4/mFvG79m-5y08m6Qgh0tj3dmomOFbJfgmgCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NMirGNZS5yc/XPKuGvxudTI/AAAAAAAAAk4/mFvG79m-5y08m6Qgh0tj3dmomOFbJfgmgCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: 13px; text-align: left;"><br /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John and Ceri on the anchorage at Urquart Castle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--Yk0V1fCuEU/XPKuIO70yxI/AAAAAAAAAlI/ZswK4GJV2Z0gW_i3R2o9_yJ4p6bCLUQLwCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--Yk0V1fCuEU/XPKuIO70yxI/AAAAAAAAAlI/ZswK4GJV2Z0gW_i3R2o9_yJ4p6bCLUQLwCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
The locking down team in operation</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Yacht Kikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18117916448260766621noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-75506206342197842552019-05-28T02:55:00.000-07:002019-05-28T02:55:35.731-07:00The Caledonian Canal<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Thursday night was spen clinging to a mooring in Ballvicar encrusted in barnacles. Ewan however was overjoyed when he hooked a mackerel on some rather faded feathers. Tea was cooked so we threw it back!<div>
We went through the Coran narrows and moored up next to a fish farm for breakfast. Unfortunately they seemed to have solved their seal problems and there did not appear to be any escaped salmon outside. We used to catch them with sweet corn on Mull, the kids loved it.</div>
<div>
We went through the sea lock at Crinan to moor up and enjoy the arrival of the steam hauled Fort William to Mallaig exprees. There was a brief vision of table lamps and Gin and Tonics and the next instant they were away with a distant wail from the loco all polished and in full British Rail livery.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Saturday morning arrived with Nigel Bickerton and Mark in the car park. They had driven up overnight from North Wales to fix the new tracking device . They had a telephone conference with their engineer mate in Sochi Russia and diagnosed a faulty connection. Amazing!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Ewan ,Lawrence and Josh scrambled onto the early train to North Wales. They have been great crew with plenty of grunt. Josh's finale was sorting out a foresail wrap at the top of the mast while we were underway off Oban. There were cheers from a nearby cruise ship.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
On Saturday evening my old Medical School mates John Cullimore and Ceri Roberts rolled off the train at 10.30 pm . After tea and whisky we were all set to lock up Neptunes staircase (Loads of locks which took three and a half hours in pouring rain).</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
We pulled up for a fry up at the top of the lochs, and then ploghed on to Gairlochy with the mountains shrouded in grey cloud at 550 feet. We crossed Loch Lochy and arrived at Lagan Lochs with a gale brewing up behind us and a jammed up Genoa curler. We nearly ran aground on some motorboat moorings and turned the head of the boat into wind in a narrow channel to moor up. Apparently we heard from the lock keeper that it was gusting Force 9 off the inner hebrides. Thank goodness we were inland! Kikas heater is now working fine so we cancelled a run ashore to settle for a curry and dry out on the boat.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
No Josh Cook, so went up the mast in the morning to sort out the Genoa wrap . Not too bad , but energy levels for climbing definitely flagging. Had to have a good rest on the crosstrees!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
What a difference a day makes, Just a brief shower and then the sun shone drying out our oilies. We started by going through Laggan Lock. Laggan is the site of the battle of the shirts where the bloodthirsty MacDonalds finished off most of the Fraser Clan. There are parallels with Afghanistan!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
After a day's gentle cruising accross Loch Oich we have arrived at the top of five lochs taking us down to the fabled Loch Ness. No sign of the monster.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YxoAckDMMCA/XO0A1onwvDI/AAAAAAAAAjo/d4QHz2xD-Lcogqz2O8bIhNvhQ3lOUwOSwCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YxoAckDMMCA/XO0A1onwvDI/AAAAAAAAAjo/d4QHz2xD-Lcogqz2O8bIhNvhQ3lOUwOSwCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br /><br /><br /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Josh clubs the mast underway- it's not horizontal!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wPcLFbDM0Sc/XO0A1mAOC1I/AAAAAAAAAjs/iFjEONlux_U7rypcvMEraveu21stNbIYACLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wPcLFbDM0Sc/XO0A1mAOC1I/AAAAAAAAAjs/iFjEONlux_U7rypcvMEraveu21stNbIYACLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A lovely mooring in Ballvicar Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D3JgozT-4QU/XO0A16n-IgI/AAAAAAAAAjw/7wxEuEXyj4cAPlMdW8rlRvzmFgxb_mzRACLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D3JgozT-4QU/XO0A16n-IgI/AAAAAAAAAjw/7wxEuEXyj4cAPlMdW8rlRvzmFgxb_mzRACLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br /><br /><br /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kika in the basin at Corpach- Ben Nevis in the background<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JeIM5vBqd5c/XO0A3C9P4uI/AAAAAAAAAj0/qt7a1nMlMQ8nq9u1MPByKMvjWlRvQ_YeQCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JeIM5vBqd5c/XO0A3C9P4uI/AAAAAAAAAj0/qt7a1nMlMQ8nq9u1MPByKMvjWlRvQ_YeQCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br /><br /><br /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The disappearing crew show no repect for mountain scenery<br /><br /><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br /><br /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--PE15rjBzcU/XO0A3iuTDiI/AAAAAAAAAkU/uqXJvsIqlmI1Z-EN3mw9mL-vIvDnxHjAwCEwYBhgL/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--PE15rjBzcU/XO0A3iuTDiI/AAAAAAAAAkU/uqXJvsIqlmI1Z-EN3mw9mL-vIvDnxHjAwCEwYBhgL/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
New crew with oilies drying out</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
Yacht Kikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18117916448260766621noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-51390307272168117642019-05-23T03:30:00.001-07:002019-05-23T03:45:36.935-07:00Moving up to Oban<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-axiG8y8nNR4/XOVxgXVreaI/AAAAAAAAAiA/-tU8-h0g0OMdT4LaCxWe-_TxOeWtLZL5gCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-axiG8y8nNR4/XOVxgXVreaI/AAAAAAAAAiA/-tU8-h0g0OMdT4LaCxWe-_TxOeWtLZL5gCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ailsa Craig but not many gannets</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
Josh and our two new crew Ewan and his twin brother Lawrence navigated us into Rothesay where we sampled the beer in the black bull and went to spend a penny in itsmagnificent Victorian Loos which you can experience for just 40p.<br />
<br />
<div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UUGB7RdLD7k/XOZ1lJVYLYI/AAAAAAAAAjU/BubsPzteRYozynEZ_G9hOPdKcl8d7mNwQCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UUGB7RdLD7k/XOZ1lJVYLYI/AAAAAAAAAjU/BubsPzteRYozynEZ_G9hOPdKcl8d7mNwQCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kika enters Ardrashaig sea lock</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZpRKTEq99AE/XOZ1lEe8XfI/AAAAAAAAAjQ/i-wsQy_rotUVWcM-T6gJaEe6lgAs9fGdACLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZpRKTEq99AE/XOZ1lEe8XfI/AAAAAAAAAjQ/i-wsQy_rotUVWcM-T6gJaEe6lgAs9fGdACLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dreaded Correveckan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wjE-nPzBLtU/XOZ1lNqHFGI/AAAAAAAAAjM/n4z4CTQZ6REe_fACcdYgsoJY2o8OOisfQCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wjE-nPzBLtU/XOZ1lNqHFGI/AAAAAAAAAjM/n4z4CTQZ6REe_fACcdYgsoJY2o8OOisfQCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br />
<br /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Josh tries out the Victorian plumbing in Rothesay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nJc_ZQj67zg/XOVxgE4F-aI/AAAAAAAAAh8/X-eUL0kxmiYW7hgbz80cwgMNFteCzjhrACLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nJc_ZQj67zg/XOVxgE4F-aI/AAAAAAAAAh8/X-eUL0kxmiYW7hgbz80cwgMNFteCzjhrACLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The new crew - very keen to learn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q4dq4Q20Jvk/XOVxgUTaHdI/AAAAAAAAAiE/HJ3x9KmW3igsrrtUNUOH24mM6pQbWbgrACLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q4dq4Q20Jvk/XOVxgUTaHdI/AAAAAAAAAiE/HJ3x9KmW3igsrrtUNUOH24mM6pQbWbgrACLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soon deteriorated<br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
On through the Kyles of Bute through magnicent wooded hillsides to the fishing port of Tarbert where a Viking named Barefoot got his men to haul their longship all the way accross the peninsula just to claim the territory on both sides of the mull of Kintyre. On Tuesday morning we locked into the Crinan Canal which is a surreal two days of inland waterways locking up to the summit lake and then down again to Crinan. With three beefy lads running between locks we made good time. Early in the year the midges have not got going and there were very few other boats<br />
<br />
<br /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--Z5kyiCe3h0/XOVxi4f3sGI/AAAAAAAAAiM/3EJnYDh55DIFHs_l2UGdM6ItT9zfYTcKgCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--Z5kyiCe3h0/XOVxi4f3sGI/AAAAAAAAAiM/3EJnYDh55DIFHs_l2UGdM6ItT9zfYTcKgCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br />
<br /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Josh gets the lady lock keepers life history<br />
<br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="text-align: left;">On Tueday afternoon we had a magnificent sail through the over falls of the Doris morn, </span><span style="text-align: left;">dodging the rocks to wend our up to a mooring in Ballvicar Bay. Scottish Lochs are peaceful places and it is hard to beat a sundowner looking over the water to the peaceful hills beyond.We had passed Correveckan Sound earlier in the day. I resisted the lads blandishments to go through it and inspect the whirlpools and overfalls that have shipwrecked many vessels over its long history.Wednesday saw us squeaking through the very narrow Cuan Sound at low water to sail up Kerrera sound and into Oban for the worlds best fish and chips endorsed by Rick Stein no less,where we meet a single handed GP amine based on the Isle of Tiree and some Americans from Chicago one of whom was the administrator for a tribe of Idaho Indians. We woke to the sound of bagpipes on Obans North Bay pier as a piper welcomed a neighbours cruise ship passengers on board. Our only snag at present is the wind vane which initially worked well on a beat but Despite all our efforts has gone on strike. Ballachulish Bay tonight and then on through the tidal Coran Narrows to Fort William and the Caledonian Canal where John Cullimore and Ceri Roberts two old mates from medical school will be coming aboard</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ozN3iRy1nTU/XOV2dLBTbuI/AAAAAAAAAi4/84KLQxHnk9QWADj-A1WMmBAr_iMb7UZMgCEwYBhgL/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1204" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ozN3iRy1nTU/XOV2dLBTbuI/AAAAAAAAAi4/84KLQxHnk9QWADj-A1WMmBAr_iMb7UZMgCEwYBhgL/s320/image.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Yacht Kikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18117916448260766621noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-65856727204902824012019-05-18T15:10:00.001-07:002019-05-18T15:16:11.336-07:00Update from bonny Scotland<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FhTsIrIfEMw/XOBOQqimphI/AAAAAAAAAhQ/mcfm48FH7zQ-94maPEgoBniIYyqY4VXqACLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top sea chef Andy Gallaher serves up midday mushroom soup<br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Since leaving the Isle of Mann we have been in a blog blackout, mainly due to my inability to source enough bandwidth to download photos. We had a lovely cruise up the North Channel using the tidal conveyor belt to arrive in the Scottish port of Portpatrick at low water where the harbourmaster guided us to the deep water by hand signals from the end of the pier. After a curry on board we took a stroll in lovely evening sunshine to a ruin of an old Macdonald castle, and a pint in town where we met a couple of Irishmen who had blown in because the price of land is three times cheaper in Scotland than over the water.<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
A 47 mile sail took us to Troon Harbour in the Cyde where we looked up old friends Eileen and Gwyn Williams who have retired from <span style="font-family: inherit;">Medecine</span> in North Wales to Eileen's original stamping ground. It's amazing how their lives are at the centre of the community . On Friday morning we arrived in Largs with a sailing emergency. The outlet valve in the holding tank was failing to function and the fore cabin was beginning to smell due to pressure in the tank.We arrived in Largs and managed to pump it out but there was still a dirty job awaiting us taking off the pump and seeing what was wrong. Andy and Pete wished us luck and wisely jumped on a train at the end of their week to take them back to Glasgow. Josh Cook and I then spent a character building 3 hours in Kikas smallest room pulling off pipes immersed in faecal matter and swearing! We eventually repaired the pump and the sanitary system is now working properly. It's the bit off sailing no one talks about!<br />
<br />
We have now been joined by Ewan Byers and his twin brother and arrived in Rothesay where the Victorian toilets are a major tourist attraction.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3H1_z-FSV9w/XOBOQtBlqsI/AAAAAAAAAhU/cUJTyojYeKcqaFIdebR-WbAlRZD1hbI8gCEwYBhgL/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3H1_z-FSV9w/XOBOQtBlqsI/AAAAAAAAAhU/cUJTyojYeKcqaFIdebR-WbAlRZD1hbI8gCEwYBhgL/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sun sets over the North channel at Portpatrick</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uGRg1PnKu0I/XOBOQr3ZY5I/AAAAAAAAAhY/Cd2r5XJoMR8EWtJrxrv-gM4kWQ77Dk2ygCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uGRg1PnKu0I/XOBOQr3ZY5I/AAAAAAAAAhY/Cd2r5XJoMR8EWtJrxrv-gM4kWQ77Dk2ygCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An early morning departure from the Isle of Mann .Pete Barrar at the helm</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zCzwS4Kds5k/XOBOR_WxaGI/AAAAAAAAAhc/maM0Vc-zRy4nSVHaz8Uk7JSUgwl2BsTSgCLcBGAs/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zCzwS4Kds5k/XOBOR_WxaGI/AAAAAAAAAhc/maM0Vc-zRy4nSVHaz8Uk7JSUgwl2BsTSgCLcBGAs/s320/image.jpeg" width="320" /></a><br />
New crew the Byers twins with Josh Cook in the middle</td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Add caption</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br /></div>
Yacht Kikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18117916448260766621noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-78635969108244511462019-05-14T09:27:00.000-07:002019-05-14T09:27:00.468-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Kika slipped out of the Conwy River at 7 am on 13 May bound for Port St Mary on the Isle of Mann. In view of the forecast for light Southerly Winds for the next week we had decided to go round Britain in a clockwise direction. We Have two old salts both of whom worked for the blue funnel line. Pete Barrar who ended up as head of the Manchester Business school and Andy Gallaher washed ashore as a chief fire officer. The muscle in the crew is supplied by Josh Cook a tree surgeon from the Conwy Valley who spends a lot of his time hanging off things.<br />
<div>
The 60 miles to Port St Mary took us 10 hours with a bit of a fight against a foul tide at the end. We tied up against the harbour wall next to some Manx trawlers and downed spaghetti Bolognaise and red wine in short order to crash out for a 05.30 start the next morning to catch the tide through calf sound. We had a lovely early morning sail up the west coast of the island where a few self poked their heads up and asked us what we were doing disturbing their fishing so early. We just caught the lock gate at Peel and after a shower, shave and shirt change proceeded into Peel for a bargain rate Pensioners breakfast. Josh says it's bloody typical baby boomers get all the perks. Apologies for the lack of photos. Struggling with the technology . It's easier servicing the engine!</div>
</div>
Yacht Kikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18117916448260766621noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-81648823989005662742019-05-05T10:29:00.000-07:002019-05-05T10:29:43.911-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Kika's first outing this year was on the stormy weekend of 28/29 April to act as committee boat for the student windsurfing nationals at Colwyn Bay. It was a good opportunity to iron out snags.<br />
Starting off at 6am I had a minor panic when the engine juddered to a halt. Fortunately I was on the point of slipping the mooring in the tidal Conwy River but still had one of the warps attached. It was relatively easy to bleed the fuel pump and get rid of an air lock. Ewan Byers then came on board and off we went at the top of the tide.<br />
<br />
It was a bit of a bumpy ride round and even more rolly on the anchorage at Colwyn Bay. I gave up trying to make bacon baps as the rib crews all came aboard. Some were iron stomached enough for a beer and others went a bit quiet and jettisoned their breakfast over the side. My son Tom nevertheless managed to get all the racing finished by 2.30 pm with a lot of tired but happy student windsurfers who are a jolly crowd and have made the most of a very stormy weekend in Colwyn Bay.<br />
<br />
Pete Quilliam and I sailed back , against tide and wind around the Great Orme to get back to Conwy for 7.30 pm and collapse into the Liverpool Arms for a well earned pint. This week have ironed out the rest of the snag list and bar tidying up a bit we are ready to go on 13 May on an early tide - Hurrah!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-98hEt9E2pcQ/XM8ay6QzldI/AAAAAAAAAg0/CNLKUuTgD2AwdYr3foToItL8ZRzjGbByACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC03251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-98hEt9E2pcQ/XM8ay6QzldI/AAAAAAAAAg0/CNLKUuTgD2AwdYr3foToItL8ZRzjGbByACLcBGAs/s320/DSC03251.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Is it pirates? or just the team from Colwyn Bay Watersports hoping for a bacon butty before the racing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
Yacht Kikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18117916448260766621noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-67050373554159040232019-04-03T08:33:00.000-07:002019-05-05T09:55:43.147-07:002019 Voyage around Britain<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<b>Kika 2019 Spring Voyage around Britain for St Kentigern Hospice.</b></h2>
<div>
<b>On 13 May we shall leave Conwy, our home in North Wales, on a 9 week circumnavigation of Britain via the Caledonian canal.</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b>Over the winter Kika has been laid up under the Harbour Master's Office in Conwy. A crowd of mates and crew have turned up to "help" : most of which constituted useful advice from the nearby Liverpool Arms. We have, however, made the boat ready for sea, including a new foresail supplied by Steve Horrocks from the Boatshed Sailmakers, who has kindly agreed to sponsor the trip. The Aries Self Steering Windvane was all seized up . We took it off and, with the help of Gareth Lloyd our local garage owner and his bench press, dismantled it and had a new stainless steel rudder tube fabricated. The old one was badly corroded and it is now impossible to obtain new parts for the ancient Aries, which is still the toughest, most over engineered, wind vane available and kept going in quite severe storms on our trip down to New Zealand. It is now back on the boat and looks promising.</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b>On 2 April the team from the Harbour Master's Office and Buckley's crane company lowered Kika into the river Conwy. It was snowing at home and the newborn lambs were shivering. To my relief the engine started . Nigel Bailey and I motored down to pick up our swinging mooring on the river.</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b>The crew are now signed up for different legs of the voyage . We think it will be a fascinating trip. Britain's coastline has a stunning variety of scenery; the wildlife is rich and varied and the places we will visit will be steeped in maritime and social history. We hope the voyage will raise some much needed funds for St Kentigern Hospice which you can support on the following "just giving" link. </b><a href="https://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.justgiving.com%2Ffundraising%2Fjonosborne&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNFDyLOYXI-OfU_lZhppdO7UAC_Hlw" rel="noreferrer" style="color: #0000cc; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal;" target="_blank">https://www.justgiving.com/<wbr></wbr>fundraising/jonosborne</a> .<b> Any help would be enormously appreciated.</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FE6KmyOc8ts/XKTPg4BFDVI/AAAAAAAAAf4/DM-Rv4MeyoADBoah07kmMvWvEryQn7QZgCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC03063%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1107" data-original-width="1600" height="221" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FE6KmyOc8ts/XKTPg4BFDVI/AAAAAAAAAf4/DM-Rv4MeyoADBoah07kmMvWvEryQn7QZgCEwYBhgL/s320/DSC03063%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kika on her winter berth under the castle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vquk5aq7S10/XKTPlSiOmiI/AAAAAAAAAf8/sOEHzH9iPgA7WnCMQHaN7UzQCP76C3iuwCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC03089%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1427" data-original-width="1600" height="285" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vquk5aq7S10/XKTPlSiOmiI/AAAAAAAAAf8/sOEHzH9iPgA7WnCMQHaN7UzQCP76C3iuwCEwYBhgL/s320/DSC03089%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">11 tons arrive in the water</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<br style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal;" />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;"></span></div>
Yacht Kikahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18117916448260766621noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-83855908310035146062014-11-17T15:25:00.000-08:002014-11-25T01:02:35.981-08:00Last post from Whangarei, New Zealand.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Kika has been hauled out, scrubbed and painted. We even varnished the saloon table! </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gU8nDQra9uc/VGe5zpJylgI/AAAAAAAABsc/RNB5yv6CWl0/s1600/IMGP0401.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gU8nDQra9uc/VGe5zpJylgI/AAAAAAAABsc/RNB5yv6CWl0/s1600/IMGP0401.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kika relaxes after a long journey and takes the weight off her keel!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Bridget has arrived by air and we are about to take off and explore New Zealand in our bargain basement camper van "Daisy" purchased by eagle eyed Colin on Gumtree. When Bridget and I go back to the UK at Christmas, Colin and his daughter Jenny will go exploring in the camper van . In the meantime Colin is sailing Kika down to the port of Tauronga where she will be shipped in March 2015 to Flushing in Holland where I will pick her up and go and see the Tulips before sailing back to North Wales.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Some of Kikas crew over the past 16 months have kindly put pen to paper and sent their reminiscences so here they are!</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Vincent Roddy - our Spanish Professor and top session musician.<br />
(Conwy North Wales to La Coruna in Spain.)</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pniDqof11J4/VGe8WCU4mbI/AAAAAAAABso/Po-4vF3WX-o/s1600/DSC_9022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pniDqof11J4/VGe8WCU4mbI/AAAAAAAABso/Po-4vF3WX-o/s1600/DSC_9022.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vince relaxes as we are entertained aboard Sephina</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
"Excited, I was also very nervous about the start of Jon and Colin’s round the world trip, especially crossing the Bay of Biscay way out in the Atlantic, away from the coast. I then made a fatal error and googled “Biscay Crossing”, which enabled me to read a selection of horror stories to make me even more wary of what I had let myself in for. Maire had absolute trust in Jon, having worked with him for many years – I had played music with Jon many times in public and that was (Maire assured me) a far less accurate guide to what we had in store.<br />
I had the adventure of my life; after the sedate first afternoon sailing to Holyhead, we were up and away early in the morning for my first overnighter to Arklow, about 11 hours sail if I remember correct. It was scary to experience being completely away from the shore for the first time but I thoroughly enjoyed the thrill of helming, navigating and learning to read the signage at sea under Colin’s expert and patient tuition.<br />
After several days’ wait in Kinsale, it felt like a phoney voyage; it had all come to a standstill as we awaited the right conditions to set off for La Coruña but music, Spanish lessons, tourism and anti-fouling occupied us until we left.<br />
I still think about the days at sea, especially over Biscay, whenever I catch sight of the ocean; I appreciated every aspect of the experience, night watches, sunrise, sunset, whales and dolphins, and learning from Colin and Jon at every turn. A couple of moments stand out, playing music as Clive sailed past in Sephina, the last whale which passed astern by only a few yards when I was on watch and being able to play some tunes even as we froze in the rain on our route to Cork.<br />
I realised last June, when I was lucky enough to get on another yacht for a week, that I had learnt so much and that I had really “got the bug”. Thanks again for a wonderful experience! "</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Nick Orr.<br />
Occupation Barrister - Nickname "the judge". Expert raconteur and keeper of the ships digestive biscuits. We never discovered his stash!<br />
(Gran Canaria to Marigot Bay , across the Atlantic)</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HYgGrOAvUUE/VGluFx2pNUI/AAAAAAAABs4/EQ4pQOPG9F8/s1600/DSC_0336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HYgGrOAvUUE/VGluFx2pNUI/AAAAAAAABs4/EQ4pQOPG9F8/s1600/DSC_0336.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A relaxed Nick (having just been fortified by one from his McVite stash)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
"Pluses:<br />
Hand steering all the way from Gran Canaria to Cape Verde (due to non-functioning wind vane). Hard work and long hours but enormous fun with Kika going like a train (by her standards).<br />
Atlantic clouds in fluffy rows during the day and brilliant stars at night. I couldn’t have enough of them<br />
Watching Sherlock Holmes in the cockpit on Joe’s laptop.<br />
Eating the freshest fish, especially Joe’s big tuna.<br />
Finding the digestives, a vital food source, hidden by Jenny.<br />
Colin complaining during a squall that he had been hit in the face by a flying fish. He took it personally.<br />
Lou showing us all her experience during the same squall.<br />
Dancing whenever the opportunity presented itself, though not as dirty as some of the dancing at the ‘jump-up’ at Gros Islet.<br />
Kika’s wonderful stability whenever we had heavy weather or heavy seas, particularly when we left Cape Verde and during the last 24 hours before St Lucia, showing all the advantages of a long keel.<br />
Fantastic crew. We had a ball.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
Minuses<br />
Jon dislocating his shoulder. Actually it was quite exciting, administering morphine and so on, and, in retrospect, it was good to see Colin and Joe giving the skipper some serious grief. At least we didn’t have to administer a diazepam suppository! I hope the most recent repair is more effective than the previous one.<br />
The mass of ropes on the front of the mast. I never worked them out. I’m sure that some of them are just for decoration."</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Tony Power. Occupation - top jeweller to the celebs, Champagne Socialist, Stand up comic and Winner of all general knowledge quizzes<br />
(Tuamotous Islands and Tahiti)<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QjdWgHHK3oU/VGmTWqufrPI/AAAAAAAABvc/LhshLysWzik/s1600/CSC_0807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QjdWgHHK3oU/VGmTWqufrPI/AAAAAAAABvc/LhshLysWzik/s1600/CSC_0807.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony gets to grips with some loose tackle on the foredeck</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
"So much I could write about the details of an outstanding trip with you but I guess I was most impressed by the relentless amounts of Coral (from Tetiaroa), Beer & Dancing Girls.<br />
Please see pic...."</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wPDx71dRi8U/VGlzmTSTCII/AAAAAAAABtI/lauvd7q7oy4/s1600/tony.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wPDx71dRi8U/VGlzmTSTCII/AAAAAAAABtI/lauvd7q7oy4/s1600/tony.jpg" height="400" width="278" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Relax and please sing along to the sound of music "Tony simply remembers his favourite thingsssssss...and then he won't feellllll.... so bad".</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Hugh Clifford . My oldest pal. We had the great mutual misfortune to be at school together since the age of 14. Our relationship has steadily deteriorated over the years, especially in print!<br />
(Tuamotous Islands and Tahiti)<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_wp9_pP49Cw/VGmUChrLLRI/AAAAAAAABvk/VrZxHHQiPSY/s1600/CSC_0810.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_wp9_pP49Cw/VGmUChrLLRI/AAAAAAAABvk/VrZxHHQiPSY/s1600/CSC_0810.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hugh and Tony...sometimes a caption cannot do justice to the shot!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
"Ho Osborne; and so the odyssey approaches conclusion;<br />
Bridget has kindly invited all the Cliffords to Jollity Farm for Christmas, so we shall all look forward to seeing you then; well, providing you do note drone on about your trip, and insist on examining, and explaining, each photograph;</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
As you said when first we spoke about the trip all those years ago it was a trip of a lifetime, but for all the wrong reasons; I know that Tone and I certainly did not think we would travel more miles in the inflatable than on Kika;</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
You will be pleased and relieved to learn that I am currently composing my report, at some length; I regret that you do not feature in a favourable light; amiable Colin, does so, of course, and I would not hesitate to join him on a future trip!"</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
(Sadly Hughies final report seems to have got lost somewhere in the internet. We think it must have corrupted his files.... Ed)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Peter Quilliam,<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Fisherman extraordinaire, Top stew chef.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
(Panama to Marquesa Islands)<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9iVkSjDzpXk/VGl12dgKvrI/AAAAAAAABtU/djoYwWuH2g4/s1600/pete%2Bselfie.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9iVkSjDzpXk/VGl12dgKvrI/AAAAAAAABtU/djoYwWuH2g4/s1600/pete%2Bselfie.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete has never been this relaxed before!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="background-color: white;">An awesome experience and something I doubt I will ever better. Great company and very , very competent skipper and first mate . Thanks for allowing me to be a part of your amazing adventure.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"></span><br style="background-color: white;" />
<span style="background-color: white;">I quote from an entry in my own log on the long jump from Galapagos to the Marquesa islands and one day in particular.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"></span><br style="background-color: white;" />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;"></span></div>
<div>
19 thApril (now named by me as black Saturday)</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The day didnt start well. Early morning the skipper rudely woke me up to get at the tools under my bunk saying the engine had blown up! An oil pipe had blown off and the sump now held all of our engine oil!! Not what you want to hear part way through a 3000 mile journey from the Galapagos island to the Marquesa islands!! A bit of an initial panic but 2/3 hours later all was fixed. Just as well these chaps can turn their hand to most things. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;">Lunchtime.....I'm cooking when there's a huge bang and clouds of acrid smoke appeared around the chart table just behind me. Definitely an electrical problem! All was switched off and the regulator suspected but after much head scratching and deep thinking it turned out that the inverter had blown up. I can assure you that the last thing you need mid Pacific is a fire when there's no chance of help arriving for god knows how long....if ever. Yet again our skipper and first mate rose to the challenge and sorted the problem. Useful chaps.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;"></span><br />
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;"></span><br />
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;">During the afternoon the winds dropped further so we dropped all sail and launched our secret weapon...a parasail. High tech ,very expensive and very impressive when flying. The wind continued to drop and it was flogging and struggling in quite light winds then soon after deployment it snagged on the pulpit and...........ripped. Our last intact sail knackered. What next!!</span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;"></span><br />
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;">
</span>
<br />
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;">Not a good day!! They say things come in threes so we should be ok now..... well for today anyway! So weve now ripped or damaged almost every sail in one way or another. Some patched and still useable but two fairly wrecked. Still, we're all in one piece and still alive. The Skipper somehow manages to maintain a positive and calm outlook despite the setbacks as does Colin. Good to know you're in very safe hands.</span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;">
</span>
<br />
<div style="font-weight: bold;">
</div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;">
</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Nigel Clay. Top Orthopaedic Surgeon, expert fisherman and fantasist!<br />
( Rarotonga to Tonga)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L2tsuHBcqQI/VGl5JI112yI/AAAAAAAABts/15Q2gFwWYLA/s1600/DSC_0204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L2tsuHBcqQI/VGl5JI112yI/AAAAAAAABts/15Q2gFwWYLA/s1600/DSC_0204.JPG" height="400" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nigel, a man with a very active and vivid imagination, he can never relax.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The editorial committee liked his report so much that we are offering a prize to anyone able to spot the one bit of truth in it!</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
"NIGELS SOUTH PACIFIC ODYSSEY<br />
Outward bound</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
The real reason for me being invited to join Kika was, I believed (at first at any rate), to act as fishing coach. Jon knew of my substantial prowess in matters piscatorial. When he discovered the denizens of the South Pacific were too much for his bent pin and a worm method it seem obvious he had no choice but to summon me. I asked if he wanted me to bring anything but was reassured that he had loads of high tech fishing gear on board (partly true) but that they didn't know how to use it properly (Very true). He also told me it was constantly warm and sunny (untrue) and not to bring any warm clothes. Or waterproofs. And only a very thin sleeping bag.<br />
I will never believe anything that man says again. This, as it turned out, was a ruse to lighten my luggage to make space for the stuff he did want which included a solid steel bench vice, a litre of HP sauce and a catering sized bottle of Branston pickle. On top of all that he asked me to pick up some specialist reading material from the top shelf at the newsagents, the nature of which I can’t disclose but is perhaps understandable after several months at sea. Oh, and also my guitar. So I not only had to get a large musical instrument halfway round the world on airlines who would prefer them to sit in a fare-paying seat, but also had to endure the constant raised eyebrows of security personnel who regarded the vice as a potential weapon and the Branston pickle as a Biohazard Capable of Destroying Life As We Know It. </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Rarotonga<br />
I arrived on 2nd August after the aircraft made two abortive attempts to touchdown. Not a good start. The all-important affidavit I should have had from the Skipper confirming my place as crew member, as I later discovered, was sitting in the Drafts mailbox on his computer so they wouldn't let me into Rarotonga until I converted my single ticket to a return at great cost. <br />
To be fair, Jon was at the airport to meet me, he had got the beer in and to begin with it wasn't pouring with rain. However the next ten days in Rarotonga was described by the islanders as "the worst weather we've had for 25 years". "Sorry about this Nige, this is the coldest its been since we left the UK" said Jon in his wooly jumper with Colin nodding in agreement and shivering.<br />
Despite the thundery rain and cold winds we enjoyed Rarotonga, its people and its chickens. Colin even located a hire "car" for one day, at a price which fitted in with the skipper's tight-fisted budgetary policy. It was little more than a biscuit tin on wheels ( and a rusty one at that) and there was an ants nest in the hole in the dashboard where the radio used to be.<br />
It was luxury, however, compared to Colin's so-called bicycle. A velocipede of the folding type, it has been strapped to the deck for a year pickling in sea water. Where there had once been chrome and gleaming paint there was now an-all over orange patina of corrosion. It had no pump so the bald and perished tyres were as soft as three-day-old party balloons. The brakes didn't work at all, though they sounded like they came off a tram. It is sooooo dangerous. "Nothing wrong with it, purely cosmetic" Colin announced, proudly "Its fine. You don’t need brakes really, just don't go too fast (as if) and put your feet on the ground to stop." I had to ride it to Rarotonga prison to collect my ukelele. I then realised that not only is the infernal thing an accident waiting to happen but it has tiny wheels which make it look a lot like a clown's bike so that other road users point and fall about laughing at you like braying donkeys. Especially kids in school buses "Look at that man on his silly squeaky bike with flat tyres haaa! haaa! haaa!"</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Blue water and fishing<br />
After ten days we set off for our first long passage. "Were staying here it's too rough" all the other yachties said but Jon is made of sterner stuff. Sally sensibly escaped to another boat and Seasick Steve aka Richard took her place. Colin dutifully lashed his bike to the deck. I loosened the rope when his back was turned and we set off.<br />
It was rough all right. Richard was soon confined to his bunk totally unable to do any of the chores on the boat and being waited on hand and foot. Not much sign of sick, I noticed, though but the groans sounded convincing. "Still bad Richard?" I would enquire each morning after sitting up half the night doing his watch for him. "Oh yes still bad. Have you made the tea yet? And just the one boiled egg I think." It was now time to get down to the serious business of fishing. "Righto Jon lets have a look at your tackle" I said. "No, put it away, I mean the fishing tackle" I added hastily at this sudden reminder of his Jewish ancestry. As it turned out he had quite a good rod and reel and some nice lures but only two fishing lines. One was on the reel and about 30lb breaking strain ( which I would describe a "sporting" given the size of the quarry) and the other was about half a mile of black monofil which I estimate was around 700lb, the sort of stuff commercial fishermen use for long-lining swordfish. This was wrapped round a wooden frame which Jon had cobbled from four bits of scrap wood and a few screws. It was the crappest bit of joinery I had ever seen. "Did you make this Jon?" I asked trying not to laugh. "Yeah, s'alright init?" I shook it and it promptly fell apart. "You've broken it" he protested, but I think he knew it was futile to argue structural mechanics with an Orthopod.<br />
Anyway I did show them how it was done and that evening we dined on Dorado steaks. Unfortunately the next time I hooked a fish it was a Marlin which leaped out of the water thrashing its beak around. I was really keen to get it on board in the hope that it might do some serious and hopefully terminal damage to Colin's bike but it snapped the line. The next big fish took the bait while I was down below and I came up to see line stripping off at a rate of knots. Unfortunately whoever had loaded the line on to the reel (and I am not pointing any fingers at anyone, Jon) had omitted the elementary step of tying the line to the spool. So we lost the lot (I say we meaning not me).</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Nudism<br />
I had never realised Jon has profound exhibitionist tendencies and an evangelical attitude to nudism at sea. You might think being on a boat with flapping sails thrashing ropes and fishhooks everywhere would be a bit of a disincentive to "letting it all hang out". Jon however throws caution to the wind and with it, his pants. As soon as Kika is alone in the ocean all the kit comes off and he strides around the deck, his 'neck and giblets' swinging gaily in the breeze. "You should try it Nige. Sea air tightens the scrotum you know, takes the slack from the sac as they say. Look at mine!" " He's right you know," said Colin climbing out of the hatch naked "its the only way to sail". Richard, now recovered from his mal de mer emerged, his body glistening in the sunlight clutching a bottle of baby oil "anyone for a massage?" </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Niue - how the mighty are fallen.<br />
Our adventures on this delightful island and especially our heroic sea rescue are detailed in the blog. It is not widely known however that just before we left for Tonga the two senior crew members of Kika suffered the humiliation of having to be rescued themselves. It was a scenario straight out of a Laurel and Hardy film. It began with Jon in the dinghy getting it ready for departure. He unloaded the oars and then the motor. Bobbing about in the empty rubber boat he watched in horror as the knot he used to secure the painter to the Kika's handrail unravelled itself casting him adrift in a stiff breeze. In no time he was several yards away.<br />
" Grab that bloody painter before - too bloody slow, come on come on!....Throw me a bloody rope... not that one, Oh, for fuck's sake.... throw me the oars then , the oars, the bloody oars get a bloody move on...come on, do something somebody!" You can imagine the pandemonium.<br />
Quick thinking as always, Colin stripped off and dived in, then realised that he had forgotten the oars. Richard and I were then shouted at in stereo. By the time we had thrown them to him Jon was disappearing into the distance shouting "Help!" in an increasingly hysterical high-pitched voice. He rather let the side down I thought considering there were Yanks about. <br />
In desperation he started paddling furiously with his hands but was still going backward at the same rate that Colin was swimming forwards. It ended up with the dinghy coming to rest against a boat on the other side of the harbour where the by now exhausted and hypothermic Colin caught up. They were finally rescued by the polished boatmanship of a nine-year-old boy from one of the other boats who launched his dinghy and towed the bedraggled pair back to Kika. Richard and I of course were most concerned but unable to render assistance as we were paralysed with mirth. " Could we have another of your knot lessons Jon? " seemed an apt remark but it didn't get much of a laugh. They were to busy paying the lad to keep his mouth shut.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Voyage to Tonga<br />
Another four days at sea with Richard seasick, Jon and Colin oiling their naked bodies on the foredeck, while I did all the sailing. Progress was slow, the boat being quite heavy with the crate of AK47s and ammo which Jon had bought in Panama with his NHS pension lump sum. This was the true purpose of his voyage and apparently masterminded by Bridget who is an international arms dealer, using General Practice and being a farmer's wife as a cover. She had struck a deal with the Tongan Liberation Movement and they promised to exchange the weapons for high grade cocaine. They would get 1000% return on the investment from Mr Big in New Zealand who had kindly agreed to pick up the drugs mid-ocean in his Stinkpot, as Jon called it. In anticipation of the forthcoming wealth the Kika was additionally weighed down with several cases of Dom Perignon 1975. Jon is exceptionally fond of the stuff and can polish off a bottle for breakfast no problem. He likes to keep a cold one in the freezer at all times and we had to keep his glass topped up when he was at the helm. </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Tonga and sadomasochism<br />
We had to say goodbye to Richard shortly after our arrival in Vava'u as he is a very important chap in the BOA sorting out doctor's pay, clearly vital stuff as it’s a struggle for us to keep up with managers’ salaries even though we get the blame for everything. Sally joined us again and I was evicted from the Princess Suite and had to doss down on the settee in the living room. Actually Princess Suite was rather flattering as it was actually right next to the bog. One disadvantage of that particular berth was its acoustic amplification of anything going on in the little room next door. Sally is an early riser and an avid reader and clearly quite deaf and anosmic as each morning she would lie happily in bead reading Proust's À la recherche du temps perdu apparently oblivious of the wet farts, straining noises, splattering turds, the groans of relief and the thick faecal miasma which heralded the dawn of each new day."( Perhaps a little more detail here please ....Ed)<br />
A remarkable woman though, one of the most seasoned explorers I have ever met (she sprinkles celery salt on her body every morning). Sally has travelling light off to a fine art. In a very small portmanteau she has a costume for every occasion. One night after Jon and Colin had been on the rum and magic mushrooms all evening and smoking some awful weed that smelled like a bonfire she appeared in a full dominatrix outfit including a red latex basque, leather hot-pants, fishnet stockings and thigh-length leather boots. In one hand she had a riding crop and in the other a pair of rubber gimp masks and an enema syringe. "I hope you boys are going to do as you're told!" she said "Not you Nigel ,obviously, because you're not weird but you might find it instructional to watch." "And take photos please!" said Colin eagerly "Use my cameral!". "Yes Madam!" said Jon obsequiously kissing her boots "we are your humble slaves and we will do whatever you say, no matter how humiliating" Horrified I watched as Jon and Colin once more stripped off all their clothes and donned the gimp masks. There then followed scenes of such depravity that I had to make an excuse and leave. I motored across the bay until the screams of those two poor men ringing across the calm tropical lagoon faded into the distance and made my way to the Mango bar. I returned an hour later to find Sally with her nose buried in Proust again and Jon and Colin standing up rubbing Germoline into their scarlet posteriors looking extremely happy.<br />
It was from Tonga, after many more adventures that I had to say farewell to my travelling companions. It had been such an eventful five weeks and I will carry the memories with me to the end of my days. I had been with a band of the most brave kind- hearted, stalwart and honourable people the like of which one would be lucky to meet in a thousand lifetimes.<br />
Jon, Colin Sally, Richard, it was a pleasure to sail with you.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Nigel"</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
So that's it folks from Kika and its crew. We thank you sincerely for reading all this dreadful travelogue to the bitter end, but at least you will know to avoid the slide show</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3BLjaq3Aq5A/VGmBQ5lVRgI/AAAAAAAABuk/m2ajTpNRc_c/s1600/DSC_0554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3BLjaq3Aq5A/VGmBQ5lVRgI/AAAAAAAABuk/m2ajTpNRc_c/s1600/DSC_0554.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The skipper had rehearsed his slide show with this very appreciative audience</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Jon Osborne(skipper and scribe)<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OJnMzU-nTa4/VGl6CbnD4pI/AAAAAAAABt4/RJL4Huyf_Hs/s1600/Jon%2Bwashed%2Bout.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OJnMzU-nTa4/VGl6CbnD4pI/AAAAAAAABt4/RJL4Huyf_Hs/s1600/Jon%2Bwashed%2Bout.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Skipper, a rare moment of relaxation!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Colin Sharratt ( first mate and photographer)<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wj_bZW3W8L8/VGl8t7iIpXI/AAAAAAAABuE/7dwKbIByny0/s1600/DSC_1163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wj_bZW3W8L8/VGl8t7iIpXI/AAAAAAAABuE/7dwKbIByny0/s1600/DSC_1163.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The photographer and friends relax ...and below some photos from the Galapagos where poor internet limited the uploading of photos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qhHMKSgBO40/VGpxFFI74qI/AAAAAAAABv0/G6qNgRsRjpc/s1600/DSC_0071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qhHMKSgBO40/VGpxFFI74qI/AAAAAAAABv0/G6qNgRsRjpc/s1600/DSC_0071.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In search of a tasty morsel...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0Hnf7oy6Uzo/VGl-7NzCqHI/AAAAAAAABuQ/O0tVaNxvK2k/s1600/CSC_0796.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0Hnf7oy6Uzo/VGl-7NzCqHI/AAAAAAAABuQ/O0tVaNxvK2k/s1600/CSC_0796.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and there it is...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lYSPsTizl-Q/VGmSstZ0iNI/AAAAAAAABvQ/YYZM_hGe4qM/s1600/CSC_0808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lYSPsTizl-Q/VGmSstZ0iNI/AAAAAAAABvQ/YYZM_hGe4qM/s1600/CSC_0808.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">but did he get it?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s1597bAHfbM/VGmSstSXWaI/AAAAAAAABvM/dUy_ywtanJ0/s1600/CSC_0809.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s1597bAHfbM/VGmSstSXWaI/AAAAAAAABvM/dUy_ywtanJ0/s1600/CSC_0809.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">he sure did!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W8yBcmnBvrw/VGmEpDqTnUI/AAAAAAAABu8/kbYiS6fH6Qg/s1600/DSC_0840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W8yBcmnBvrw/VGmEpDqTnUI/AAAAAAAABu8/kbYiS6fH6Qg/s1600/DSC_0840.JPG" height="400" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perhaps the owner hadn't paid the mooring fee!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaY919MDM3w/VGp1o_CGSjI/AAAAAAAABwA/xCGecRMAInA/s1600/DSC_0703.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaY919MDM3w/VGp1o_CGSjI/AAAAAAAABwA/xCGecRMAInA/s1600/DSC_0703.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As timeless as a voyage across the ocean, goodbye</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
POSTSCRIPT<br />
A late entry posted from Germany..............<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: x-small;">Susanne Liese: Our dear friend from German; </span><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: x-small;">gourmet chef, supplier of ships snacks and breath of fragrance in an otherwise noxious boat cocktail of bilge water and male body odours!</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: x-small;">(Nuku Hiva to Tahiti)</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Kuam7Qn0QmQ/VHRBDhztmBI/AAAAAAAABwQ/bqsgOVfUstA/s1600/DSC_0106.NEF" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Kuam7Qn0QmQ/VHRBDhztmBI/AAAAAAAABwQ/bqsgOVfUstA/s1600/DSC_0106.NEF" height="400" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our ray of sunshine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">First of all I have to thank Jon and Colin again for allowing me to be part on such an amazing trip!</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">I grew up in Germany with a father flying and sailing most of his life, which had a great influence on my addiction to travel. Taking every chance of an adventure it took a blink of an eye to accept the invitation of Jon and Colin to take part on the trip from Nuku Hiva to Tahiti.</span><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">I took more than a month of vacation and nobody could change my mind.</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">During this four weeks I've had the time of my life, having time to think about a lot . . . having disruptions with "too much exitment" according Colin (at the end of the four weeks twice) . . . Jon, good to know the shoulder have had finally a repair . . .</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img src="http://l.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/i/mesg/emoticons7/63.gif" /></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Sailing the Pacific on a well founded vessel together with three gentlemen was indeed a favored life!</span><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">Lucky am I having no night watch just relaxed sleeping were my system could attach to the constant moving of KIKA. From time to time I've joined the one on watch in the early evening for a chat but just then to concentrate on the stars. what a show, they were extraordinary bright and vivid.</span><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">Now I'm able to relate to the stories of my father I've listened during my younger ages.</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Daytime was my duty with watch and cooking, helping hands from all sides, Colin, "Otto" and Jon.</span><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">Behind the helm I felt at ease and comfortable after a while when one of these sickness put a strain on me. As soon when consentrating on a job the sickness faded away, even cooking in the gally did the trick.</span><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">I liked to spoil the "boys" with some goodies from KIKAS oven. There was a time of more than 6 plus myself coexisting members, old crew, new crew visitors of other boats and of course Jon and Colin. . . - " Tahiti here we are".</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">I enjoyed the trip immensely!</span><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">While there is always much to do at home, on sea you can live a relaxed live.</span><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">Seeing dolphines, baby killer wale, manta ray and much more was a thrill. These pictures I'll keep for the rest of my life and do not need any technical equipment for it, my brain is so much more capable of it.</span><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">All the friends of Jon and Colin I've met on the trip and beforehand in Gran Canaria and St. Lucia, thanks for all your company and get-together over this last year I've enjoyed it immensely.</span><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">Hope we will have time to reflect, think and talk about this adventure together.</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Many more thanks to my crew Jon, Colin and "Otto", I had a great time! My favourite photo is below...</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QgIS6aOV6Xg/VHREOTxwTII/AAAAAAAABwc/D6nagBLzWig/s1600/2014-05-21%2B23.18.19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QgIS6aOV6Xg/VHREOTxwTII/AAAAAAAABwc/D6nagBLzWig/s1600/2014-05-21%2B23.18.19.jpg" height="240" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Jon and Colin relaxed swimming and KIKA in the background!</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Susanne</span><br /><br /><br /></div>
</div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02288143251258239365noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-74170986882241833112014-11-02T00:37:00.001-07:002014-11-02T00:37:28.171-07:00Fiji to New Zealand<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"> Going to New Zealand is a complicated business, as you have to first cross a high pressure system just below Fiji , and then catch the end of a low just as it passes New Zealand and the wind turns Northerly. If you get it wrong and cop the beginning of a low, you could be battling into a South Westerly Gale as you approach New Zealand. There are some good weather web sites, a daily discussion at 7am on Gulf Harbour Radio on the Single Side Band Radio from New Zealand, and a professional weather routing service by Bob McDavitt.</span><br />
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
In harbour the SSB doesn't work because of interference, so we asked Bob McDavitt for advice. He advised Thursday or Friday for a weather window so we got our act together and made preparations to leave on Friday 3 October.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GC2tUG12wIg/VE3J7JEfCaI/AAAAAAAABqM/5YPtXClFgWo/s1600/IMGP0346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GC2tUG12wIg/VE3J7JEfCaI/AAAAAAAABqM/5YPtXClFgWo/s1600/IMGP0346.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lautoka's undercover market</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We took the bus to Lautoka city where we vegetable shopped in its enormous market. Everything in Fiji is very reasonably priced. Provided it isn't imported it costs about a third of the UK price. On the way back the bus was invaded by schoolchildren of all ages. They were all impeccably turned out, laughed and chattered and were looked after by and polite to the other passengers.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
On a sunny Friday morning we said goodbye to our cheerful and sociable crewmate Sally, who wants to go diving in Vanu Atu and had a musical farewell from the marina staff who sang a song as we were towed off the mooring.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ILHc708vtNU/VEx2GhT6pVI/AAAAAAAABnw/mIrYR4f99uY/s1600/CSC_1018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ILHc708vtNU/VEx2GhT6pVI/AAAAAAAABnw/mIrYR4f99uY/s1600/CSC_1018.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We're Leaving. They were very pleased, so sang out loud!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We've had a lovely time in Fiji with happy friendly people who were unfailingly courteous and helpful. I'm sure the place has a great future.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6w_l7Wo2Wwc/VExx7o2XSKI/AAAAAAAABnk/0n0dnZm43Bo/s1600/DSC_0713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6w_l7Wo2Wwc/VExx7o2XSKI/AAAAAAAABnk/0n0dnZm43Bo/s1600/DSC_0713.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A final wave from Sally</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We exited the reef via the Navuka passage at around 4pm and found ourselves in a big sea and 20-25 knot SE winds .We needed to do be close hauled for a course towards New Zealand, so with two reefs in the main we had a bumpy old time of it. Both Col and I felt sick the first night , so our old standby corn beef hash was as much as we could manage. Only 1,100 miles to go!</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
The heavy weather continued for two days, but gradually the wind came round to the East and eased and Kika did well on a fine reach. Its now Tuesday morning and Kika has been doing splendidly, bowling along at 7 knots overnight. Our daily average distances have been 135-145 miles. We listen to Gulf Harbour Radio at 7am manned by two volunteer enthusiasts Patricia and David who monitor your position, and provide a half hour of discussion about the weather all over the SW Pacific. A brilliant service, much appreciated by long distance yachtsmen. Gulf harbour is in Northern New Zealand where the weather is currently bad with South Westerly gales from big depressions down South. We're just hoping its going to calm down by the time we get there. Apparently the yachts to the North of us are having a bad time with 30 knot Easterlies.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
However so far Bob McDavitts advice has been spot on for us. We hit the centre of the high on Tuesday afternoon for a brief period with very light winds, and they have now backed slightly to the East enabling us to set a course direct for the tip of the North Island which is 570 nautical miles away. Our distance run today was 140 nautical miles. Not bad for the Morris minor of the seas!</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Wednesday 9 October was an eventful day for us. The winds dropped so we started the engine, only to hear a odd rattling sound after a while. On lifting the engine cover one could see salt water in the engine tray spraying from the water pump pulley wheel. Sure enough on stopping the engine we could feel that the pulley wheel had play in it which meant that the raw water pump bearings had gone. After a bit of breakfast we rumaged around and found spare bearings for the pump supplied by Jabsco. We took the pump off the engine and then disassembled it with some difficulty on the saloon table. The bearing that had gone with a lot of mangled metal and spring was the one next to a rubber seal just next to the pulley wheel. When we finally got the pulley wheel off the shaft and tried to fit the beating supplied there was too much play between the bearing and its housing. The bearings supplied had been for the other end of the shaft. It wasn't going to be possible to repair the pump which meant only being able to run the engine for a minute or so before we needed to switch it off due to the danger of overheating.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4eIRqqB6400/VE3IxrgAM_I/AAAAAAAABp8/KsJMWBfrOr8/s1600/IMGP0342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4eIRqqB6400/VE3IxrgAM_I/AAAAAAAABp8/KsJMWBfrOr8/s1600/IMGP0342.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The water pump is located bottom right.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We were effectively a sailing vessel with no auxiliary engine. We had got a forecast through from Gulf Harbour Radio that morning that in two days there was a front coming through , behind which there were South to South Easterly winds. Normally with wind on the nose in the final stage of a passage you can just motor it. However without that option we need to sail East so we can lay Opua close hauled when the South East winds come through and we spent the day on a reach clawing back in a South Easterly direction.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
That evening the wind slackened and went round to the North so we could only do 3 knots, but to our surprise the full moon began to disappear and we witnessed a full eclipse of the moon, the second one we have witnessed on this voyage. We knew it was an eclipse when we saw a sickle moon with the sickle sideways on. In the southern hemisphere you only see the sickle underneath ,like a big smile. The moon was totally obscured for around one hour.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Thursday 9 October has been a lovely day. The nights are getting colder as we are going South. Those thermals have come out of storage and we use sleeping bags at night. We were greeted with a lovely blue sky and gentle Northerly winds taking us in the right direction. The day warms up pleasantly like an English summers day, and because the sea was calm I was able to do a few repair jobs on the boat, and bake some bread which turned out very well. Once you've been at sea for a while everything steadies down, you get into a relaxed routine and you stop worrying about when you are going to get there.Opua lies about 340 miles away almost due South as the crow flies but we are continuing to sail SE to get a better angle on the wind when it changes.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We may well pull into an anchorage in bay of islands and wait for a flood tide to help us get up the channel to Opua as we will need to tack up it with no engine. Gulf Harbour Radio have kindly offered us extra time to discuss our local weather tomorrow.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Overnight on the morning of 10 October there was very little wind with the sails banging. We have moved on at about 3 knots. Overhead in the upper atmosphere the mares tail clouds are curved indicating changeable winds. I think we must be fairly close to the front. lnterestingly in the whole week we have been at sea we have not seen a single other vessel or light. It just shows that once you are out of the shipping lanes, you are truly alone and without an EPIRB you would stand no chance of being picked up.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We went through the front early in the morning with heavy rain and wind from all directions . At 7am we talked to Gulf Harbour Radio who told us the forecast had changed and that instead of South East winds ,we were going to get a SW gale as two new depressions had formed either side of the North Island. Going East with the retrospectoscope had been the wrong thing to do as Opua was now 200 miles away dead into the wind .We had a long struggle ahead to windward.We progressively reefed down to 3 reefs with a scrap of genoa. The wind got up to gusting 40 knots overnight and the boat was being tossed around. It wasn't possible to sleep off watch and there was so much leeway we could only go at 60 degrees to the wind. Everything on board was wet and cold, and corn beef hash was the most I could manage to cook. When the gunnel is under water and the bow sends over a huge drenching of water every third wave as you hit a breaker doing anything above or below decks is an enormous struggle. Cup a soup comes into its own!</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
In the morning(Sunday12 Oct) the wind had moderated to 25 knots. We hove to for Col to cook breakfast, which improved morale(bacon and corn beef hash leftovers) and rigged the No 2 Jib on the inner forestay. This reduced our leeway by at least 10 degrees . Overnight we had almost gone backwards. By Sunday afternoon we had only made 20 miles in the last 24 hours and were still 190 miles NE of Opua. On deck as well as the usual storm petrels there was a beautiful huge albatross come to say Hello</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
With the No 2 rigged we were able to tack and lay a decent course just off the North Cape of New Zealand and gradually made progress. By 6 pm we were 160 miles North East of Opua. We had reported our late arrival and engineless state to Maritime radio on the SSB. They were very helpful and will pass the message on to customs who apparently get interested if you don't turn up when you said you would.<br />
Monday 12 October can be summed up by the phrase, "what a difference a day makes"<br />
At 7 am we had very poor copy on Gulf Harbour Radio and but got a relay of the weather from Harry on Melua in Vanu Atu. The forecast was Southerly winds being variable then calm. Not good as with no motor we might be adrift for some time. A boat called "Per Ardua" behind us said Saturdays storm was the worst conditions they had ever been in. We then dereefed the main ,only to create a large tear where the edge of the stack pack batton ripped through the sail ( with no motor it was impossible to get Kika right into the wind) spent about 2 hours taping the sail up which was difficult because there was still considerable swell from the previous days storms. Just a get you home repair really. We were getting our heads round being stuck out here for some time, however then things started to pick up .<br />
Kika punched on at 4.5 knots on course for Opua under full sail, the sun came out and with the sea moderating I was able to dry some kit out.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
I rumaged around in another box looking for sail tape and came across an unlabelled bag of what looked like water pump bearings that Nick Ager the previous owner had left.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
So in the afternoon Colin and I got the water pump apart again. Although the bearing we wanted still wasn't there, these were a much better fit. After a bit of a struggle with the pulley wheel we fitted the new ones and packed the pump with grease. We fitted it back onto the engine and the result was a functioning pump with a slight drip underneath . It looks like it might just work for a couple of hours or so, enough to get us up the channel and into Opua- we hope!</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
The wind has also kept up for longer than we expected. At 1.30 am on Tuesday 13 October as I write this it has moderated to 8 knots and we are ghosting along at 2.5 knots and the good news is we are only 65 miles North West of Opua. The 65 thousand dollar question later today when the wind goes entirely will be whether to chance it and use the engine</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Some wind kept up all night leaving us 45 miles off the bay of islands at 7am in the morning. An easy run you might think. With the wind variable and down to 4 knots we are making progress towards the bay of islands at a tantalisingly slow 1.5 knots. We can see the mountain off Cape Brett which looms ever so gradually nearer. At 2pm we are 26 miles out from the bay. We are resisting the temptation to motor it as we may need the water pump bearing to work if we are fighting the tide in the bay with no wind.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
In the evening at 13 miles out of the bay, the sails were banging about and we were drifting. I was sorely tempted to go for it, but Colin wisely recomended waiting for the morning. At 1am on 14 October we started the engine with some trepidation as we were drifting backwards with the tide off Cape Brett. The pump leaked but the pulley wheel looked good and sounds OK. We have baled sea water out of the engine tray every 2 hours and kept going at 1400 revs which gives us just under 3 knots.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1XnzU9YeOc/VEyhz7ik19I/AAAAAAAABoM/y8oRYBwFRd8/s1600/DSC_0721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1XnzU9YeOc/VEyhz7ik19I/AAAAAAAABoM/y8oRYBwFRd8/s1600/DSC_0721.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset as we approach New Zealand after twelve days at sea.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Sunrise entering the bay of islands is beautiful. Its quite cold first thing at about 8 degrees and a low mist just shrouds one or two of the islands. A couple of bottle nosed dolphins have already said hello and welcome to New Zealand. Seabirds swoop all over the place including gannets with special red caps on their heads and we've seen the first other boats since leaving Fiji. The bay is a verdant green and we have a 360 degree panorama of rocky outcrops, partially wooded hills, rather like rather like Devon coombes and a few scattered dwellings ; as we head up the channel to Opua marina and the quarantine dock. We are very relieved to be here!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9cE1oiE3yJE/VEyqbDerkBI/AAAAAAAABpI/5BeRCwxkz7s/s1600/DSC_0743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9cE1oiE3yJE/VEyqbDerkBI/AAAAAAAABpI/5BeRCwxkz7s/s1600/DSC_0743.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The approach to Opua Marina</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We arrived on the quarantine dock at 9.30 am under engine and stepped onto the dock. Col and I shook hands. Kika has come a long way and looked after us. The customs and immigration people were very decent. We had to throw away some food, but that had been expected.<br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We showered, changed had lunch and took the water pump off to Mike in Power Marine, who thought we had done quite well with the sea repair. He made a beautiful job of reconditioning the whole pump, which is now working perfectly after we had reinstalled it.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iM5hFFUjnM4/VE3Jab4BKJI/AAAAAAAABqE/MxTeL7x1yJQ/s1600/IMGP0364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iM5hFFUjnM4/VE3Jab4BKJI/AAAAAAAABqE/MxTeL7x1yJQ/s1600/IMGP0364.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mike has our water pump in hand.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Opua yacht club is just down the road. Its full of friendly people, many of whom are from the UK originally. Its a great club , with regular racing, a German beer evening which we attended ethusiastically, and they do a very nice steak and chips.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We took a couple of days off to walk to Russell on the forest track. The tracks here are all beautifully marked, pointing out different trees and animals. In some ways everything is very familiar and then you come across beautiful flowering tropical plants and bushes and hear parrots and other tropical birds that remind you we are somewhere else. The more familiar herons, kingfishers and gannets have different plumage, but are the birds we would recognise at home.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WTnY-QydLXY/VEyjoo7POXI/AAAAAAAABog/Y3_NMmL7SE4/s1600/DSC_0746.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WTnY-QydLXY/VEyjoo7POXI/AAAAAAAABog/Y3_NMmL7SE4/s1600/DSC_0746.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A lovely Spring day. Easy going across the mangroves..</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gfj4pRPbSIM/VEyjlYKNj6I/AAAAAAAABoY/7PZY1Oo0DA8/s1600/DSC_0747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gfj4pRPbSIM/VEyjlYKNj6I/AAAAAAAABoY/7PZY1Oo0DA8/s1600/DSC_0747.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">in this sub tropical climate...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vYrri6c80g4/VEyjpei0HeI/AAAAAAAABoo/8lt1HyiD7jg/s1600/DSC_0748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vYrri6c80g4/VEyjpei0HeI/AAAAAAAABoo/8lt1HyiD7jg/s1600/DSC_0748.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">with great views into the bay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Russell is now a twee little tourist town, however in the 1830s and 40s it was the original capital of New Zealand, when the total European population of all New Zealand only numbered some 2,000 souls. It was the R&R facility and sin city for whaling boats whose mainly American sailors came ashore for prostitutes and liquor. Disorder was so bad that the local Maori chiefs wrote to King George of England . He duly sent out a resident in the form of James Busby who set up house in Waitingi over the other side of the bay. It was a good opportunity to get in before the French who were showing definate interest and had even sent a frigate down.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yv3MfQi9h4g/VEx4YIRVP2I/AAAAAAAABn8/PWpQXQfIk68/s1600/DSC_0770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yv3MfQi9h4g/VEx4YIRVP2I/AAAAAAAABn8/PWpQXQfIk68/s1600/DSC_0770.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christ Church in Russell</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
James Busby got things together and invited all the Maori chiefs to a treaty signing at Waitingi in 1840. The English and Maori documents differed subtly on the question of sovereignty ,however the treaty contained important safeguards about land and control over Maori affairs by the chiefs as well as a guarantee of protection against other foreign powers ie the French.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
The chiefs weren't stupid. They didn't like the French who had behaved badly. They were having a musket driven arms race with the Southern tribes and they fancied a bit of law and order especially to control those drunken European louts in Sodom and Gommorah( Russell) over the bay. They could also see that European technology and know how was worth having. So they signed up.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Of course, once settler numbers were up, perfidious Albion reneged on most of the treaty , the most significant betrayal was to confiscate large amounts of land from the Maoris. It was no wonder that the Northern Tribes rebelled in the 1890s and gave three regular British regiments of the line a good pasting before they were finally subdued. The Maoris countered artillery by digging a sophisticated system of fortified dug outs with zig zag trenches and subterranean tunnels, well before Trench warfare had been thought of.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p4a0VyGGajc/VExcSALBCcI/AAAAAAAABm4/xspCjerjz3A/s1600/DSC_0821.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p4a0VyGGajc/VExcSALBCcI/AAAAAAAABm4/xspCjerjz3A/s1600/DSC_0821.JPG" height="400" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A local Maori chappie</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WNWPbj4YlTs/VExc1RqRNPI/AAAAAAAABnA/VEM3gONbtJE/s1600/DSC_0828.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WNWPbj4YlTs/VExc1RqRNPI/AAAAAAAABnA/VEM3gONbtJE/s1600/DSC_0828.JPG" height="400" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and his lady friend!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
I<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
In the 1970s a big Maori protest movement sprang up, calling the Government of the day to honour the Treaty, especially as so many Maoris had fought bravely for the Commonwealth in two world wars. Today's settlement with the Maoris is based on the Treaty with a restoration of some land rights and a formal apology by the Queen. As a result the Maoris and pacific islanders form a dynamic part of New Zealand society, so different from the poor old Aborigines across the Tasman sea.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
In Russell we visited the bible printing press, set up with enormous energy in the 1840s by bishop Pompallier of Lyon, France. He spoke excellent Maori and had a chart of his own genealogy and that of the catholic church that made sense to the Maoris, whose concept of ancestry and ancestral home is very strong. In 8 years using very old fashioned technology he produced 48,000 leather bound Catholic bibles in the Maori language an extraordinary achievement.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
When disorder broke out and a Maori war party came into town, the good bishop and his brothers were left alone, printing out those bibles. The Maoris had declared the premises "tapu" (sacred untouchable ground). The brothers would have been unlikely to get any protection from James Busby across the water with a French flag flying over the premises. The bishop was next sent off down South by his Cardinal to tend to the thousands of Irish Catholics pouring into Auckland. He eventually went back to France in ill health and was buried in a paupers grave. His remains have only recently been returned to New Zealand where he is held in great regard</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
In the grounds of the Treaty estate we saw the most enormous Maori war canoe powered by 120 warriors. On the Queens visit it got up to 20 knots in speed and she asked if it could be named as Her Majesty's Ship( HMS). The locals agreed and are ready to paddle off any time there's any local bovver in the South Pacific.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dOrsF1D2Mgc/VExa5qQ68vI/AAAAAAAABms/ZScvhEgGvUE/s1600/DSC_0794.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dOrsF1D2Mgc/VExa5qQ68vI/AAAAAAAABms/ZScvhEgGvUE/s1600/DSC_0794.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rather large canoe under cover- should have packed the wide angle lens!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
On Monday 20th October , we cast off our moorings and anchored up in the bay of islands overnight, and then motored down on a calm day to another anchorage at Tutukaka bay where numerous dolphins frolicked around the boat. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j4hjXXZVcRQ/VExdoSnQpEI/AAAAAAAABnM/CyX6ETrUWU8/s1600/DSC_0897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j4hjXXZVcRQ/VExdoSnQpEI/AAAAAAAABnM/CyX6ETrUWU8/s1600/DSC_0897.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dolphins at play</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EUDIhlguoCQ/VE1xLqraHBI/AAAAAAAABpk/wMdcWLME1Xk/s1600/CSC_1017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EUDIhlguoCQ/VE1xLqraHBI/AAAAAAAABpk/wMdcWLME1Xk/s1600/CSC_1017.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1gRjzctZpKE/VE1xSb7UlbI/AAAAAAAABps/hCLwNCbQdvw/s1600/CSC_1019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1gRjzctZpKE/VE1xSb7UlbI/AAAAAAAABps/hCLwNCbQdvw/s1600/CSC_1019.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zrQtKlcl2_g/VEymid0LkII/AAAAAAAABo0/dAf9wzWsQHg/s1600/DSC_0868.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zrQtKlcl2_g/VEymid0LkII/AAAAAAAABo0/dAf9wzWsQHg/s1600/DSC_0868.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our journey from the Bay of Islands to Whangarei took us out again to Cape Brett</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sHDpHEMF9zE/VEymj9xDpzI/AAAAAAAABo8/a5EfPQWNPDg/s1600/DSC_0869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sHDpHEMF9zE/VEymj9xDpzI/AAAAAAAABo8/a5EfPQWNPDg/s1600/DSC_0869.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cape Brett lighthouse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Wednesday saw us coming up the Whangarei River with the tide, past ship repair yards and all sorts of marine industry. We tied up at a lifting bridge. At 5 pm when rush hour had stopped we went through and were welcomed to Whangarei by the bridge controller. We were helped onto a berth by long term liveaboards at Riverside marina and were told that we were the first international cruising boat to arrive.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ropKOzZVIRw/VExZxsG_YeI/AAAAAAAABmg/UZOWqnYBZlY/s1600/DSC_1008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ropKOzZVIRw/VExZxsG_YeI/AAAAAAAABmg/UZOWqnYBZlY/s1600/DSC_1008.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lifting the bridge at Whangarei</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Its great to be here. Everything you could want is to hand, and folk are very friendly. We are planning to haul the boat out here for antifouling and there are numerous skilled craftsmen at hand to help us out with some of the more technical jobs such as welding the boom and canvas repair. Our plans are for Bridget to come out in 2 weeks for a camper van holiday. Colin and me have bought one, cheap off the gum tree web site. Colin's daughter Jenny is coming out in December when Bridget and I go home at Christmas, so Bridget and I will hand over the camper van to Colin and Colin will also sail the boat to Tauronga Port where we've had a very reasonable quote for shipping Kika back to Holland on an onion ship. I will pick her up at the other end in time to see the tulips.</span><br />
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
So dear readers this represents the end of our sailing journey. We will publish one further blog of reminiscences from friends and family who have come out for legs and made this trip such fun. One of fellow cruisers favourite topics of conversation are the disasters befalling other boats from sinking on reefs to having amputations as a result of flesh eating bacterial infections . My favouraite is a single hander on an American boat who got seriously ill two months ago. He was taken off with a Mayday call and rushed to Hospital. Before leaving ,he set up the boat on a windvane with a tracker. 3 weeks later when he had recovered, he chartered a fishing boat, picked up his yacht in mid ocean and continued on his voyage.<br />
So Colin and I are jolly pleased to have arrived here relatively unscathed . Kika has proved a safe comfortable passage maker. We have learned a tremendous amount about ourselves, become more practical and pragmatic people. However, when I asked Colin about this he said quite emphatically that he hadn't changed a jot ! Without doubt we take home a fund of wonderful memories of the generous warm hearted people we have met and the places we have been privileged to visit. If you are considering a trip of this nature we can highly recommend it !</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hdXePMFDxLQ/VEyue1Ipa2I/AAAAAAAABpU/Xh09BV7ltS8/s1600/DSC_0858.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hdXePMFDxLQ/VEyue1Ipa2I/AAAAAAAABpU/Xh09BV7ltS8/s1600/DSC_0858.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We sailed half way around the world, not a problem. The really amazing thing is that we are still good friends!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dq8FdGO4Aoo/VFSJqL97xnI/AAAAAAAABqo/cX4cTNp_ZQ4/s1600/DSC_0754.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dq8FdGO4Aoo/VFSJqL97xnI/AAAAAAAABqo/cX4cTNp_ZQ4/s1600/DSC_0754.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and a word from the bird!.....<br />
Kika's voyage from Wales to New Zealand took 15 months.<br />
The journey was logged with 3,691hours at sea <br />
and with a total travelled distance of 15,312 nautical miles<br />
and that is definitely not how the crow would do it!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02288143251258239365noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-66382988365077917972014-10-02T12:31:00.000-07:002014-10-02T12:31:08.892-07:00Fiji Bulletin <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Arriving on a Friday evening in Savu Savu, we inevitably got stung for overtime rates when dealing with immigration, customs ,health and biosecurity.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Fortunately Mike in" Tashidelek "tipped us off that we needed to be sitting on a quarantine anchorage outside the river, so we moved quickly off the mooring and looked correct when the authorities turned up on Saturday morning. Apparently if you get it wrong or go ashore prematurely its a very large fine. The last offender got stung for $ 26,000. They were very pleasant but sprayed the boat thoroughly as there is some mosquito in Tonga they're not to keen on in Fiji.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CvRPRx9x2wI/VCu8hae6SNI/AAAAAAAABic/-h3BEyMo_a0/s1600/DSC_0083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CvRPRx9x2wI/VCu8hae6SNI/AAAAAAAABic/-h3BEyMo_a0/s1600/DSC_0083.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Savu Savu at sunset</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Ashore Savu Savu is a great town. The Indians run all the businesses and you can eat out as cheaply as it costs to cook. Lots of cruising boats end up here on a semi permanent basis and a New Zealander called Curley runs an entertaining radio net where you get the weather, local news of what's on, details of local businesses and even World News. You can ask questions and Nick the Irish lepricorn (another semi long term resident) rummaged around in his old boat and found me a piece of perspex to fit over a broken hatch cover. Who needs the internet when you've got Curley for half an hour in the morning!<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pZHNlZLmuEs/VCvBsJM5i_I/AAAAAAAABis/FkC02o_Jo7I/s1600/DSC_0252.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pZHNlZLmuEs/VCvBsJM5i_I/AAAAAAAABis/FkC02o_Jo7I/s1600/DSC_0252.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Curley holding Court</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Our visit happened to coincide with the Fiji general election. The situation is potentially volatile. The Indians were brought here here as indentured labour by the British who thought they would not get a lot of work out of the native Fijiians .The Indians have been highly successful business people and their numbers at one point swelled to 52% of the population. The Fijians who own the land got worried, and when an Indian prime minister was elected, the army staged a bloodless coup by disarming the police force(largely Indian) at the point of a gun and taking over. Life got awkward for the Indians many of whom emigrated when they were kicked off the land they had leased and the economy took a nose dive. They now number only 40℅ of the population.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Since then there was a further coup by the present prime minister who recently resigned from the army and is standing for election as a democratic candidate. He's a bit of a thug and nearly beat up a New Zealand reporter who asked him whether he would stage another coup if he didn't like the result.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
However despite censoring the press, he has the support of the Indian population as he has declared that all Fijian's are to be treated equally. He has clamped down on crime and improved education. There is a Fijian party opposing him as they think he is going to do a land grab on their clan lands over which local chiefs have authority. He has already taken some for the government saying if you don't develop it you will lose it.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RSu4hkf3kVk/VCvDY9AkMXI/AAAAAAAABi4/GGGrW1KQGZs/s1600/DSC_0062.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RSu4hkf3kVk/VCvDY9AkMXI/AAAAAAAABi4/GGGrW1KQGZs/s1600/DSC_0062.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Democracy in action!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Anyway the ex general was widely expected to win , he did by a large majority despite the number of votes counted being much larger than the eligible voting population( shome mistake surely).The international observers declared everything to be free and fair and most people are happy because there won't be another coup, Fiji is going to be back in the Commonwealth and there should be a fairly stable climate for investment. Land prices are expected to rocket!</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We hired an Indian lady at very reasonable rates, who gave the inside of the boat a good clean and also ran a curry making morning for myself and Penny Bates from " Esprit de la mer" on Kika. It was good fun but making a Dhal seemed a very laborious process and we had plenty of time to chat. Mala was a nice lady who had a tough married life. Like most Indians she spoke Hindi and English but virtually no Fijiian despite being at least the third generation born in Fiji. She had no idea where her family came from originally in India. It makes a big contrast with the Fijians who all know where their ancestral home village is even if neither they or their parents have been there.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We went to a cruisers seminar run as an income generator by Curley on his houseboat. Fiji is notorious for its reefs. Of the 300 or so cruising boats that come here around 12 a year sink after hitting reefs. One of the boats on our cruisers radio net "Amiable " has already sunk after hitting a reef in French Polynesia. The charter company "Mooring's" tried to run an operation here but gave up because the attrition rate was so high, sacking all their staff. The islands were originally surveyed by the Admiralty in the 19th century and GPS plotters largely rely on those charts. Sometimes on approaching a pass into a reef there can be an error of 200-300 metres. Unlike French Polynesia there are no buoys marking the passes. So there is absolutely no replacement for that ancient navigating instrument the mark one eyeball in sailing these waters.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We are sailing inside the reef going round the North side of the main island "Vita Levu". To avoid a nasty crunch, we need to day sail arriving before 3 pm when the sun is high in the sky and you can see the reefs which look either light blue or brown depending on the depth of water. My friend Clive( alias the gismo kid) is probably laughing as I was too tight to invest in forward facing underwater sonar which would have been very useful.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Before we left Savu Savu, Colin and Sally went on several dives ,one at 30 metres depth with hammer head sharks. I joined them on the last one where we went 20 miles out in the dive boat to an offshore reef near Nemena Island. We dived some pillar reefs , which are huge underwater mountains of coral. You circle round and round seeing sharks, huge numbers of brightly coloured fish darting in and out of the coral and complicated and beautiful underwater ferns branching out from the multicoloured coral bed. These reefs are apparently the best in the world but sadly you have to go offshore because pollution and water run off have depleted the reefs near the main islands.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We also had a day on the buses to a town Labasa some 3 hours away. The bus left town at 7.30 in the morning and took us from the bay around Savu Savu up into the mountains where there were some spectacular views across relatively untouched tropical rain forest.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mZF6j5DcCXE/VCvFdsFZ5oI/AAAAAAAABjM/XNzccGOCBvA/s1600/DSC_0133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mZF6j5DcCXE/VCvFdsFZ5oI/AAAAAAAABjM/XNzccGOCBvA/s1600/DSC_0133.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the road to Labasa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5VwuuIEa4Bk/VCvFSqslvpI/AAAAAAAABjE/Xzuks1O2IXU/s1600/DSC_0115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5VwuuIEa4Bk/VCvFSqslvpI/AAAAAAAABjE/Xzuks1O2IXU/s1600/DSC_0115.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
On the Labasa side of the mountains , a lot of the rain forest trees had been replaced by plantations of fast growing larch trees. Virtually nothing grew on the floor of the larch forests as opposed to the rich undergrowth and animal life of the tropical forest. There are large numbers of sawmills all over Fiji.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
The coastal land near Labassa was dominated by sugar cane plantations. One sugar beet plant can be cut 7 or 8 times before you have to replant. The land is then burnt off and ploughed before replanting. The soil ( originally volcanic) looked good. Everywhere there were Massey Ferguson 165 Tractors beautifully painted up ,some modified with sun canopies used both for ploughing and transporting trailerloads of sugar cane to the sugar mills. There were also trucks on narrow gauge railways built by the British similarly loaded up with bundles of cane.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GQqFGgXwIyg/VCvHfkQD1RI/AAAAAAAABjg/lCI__TLizrQ/s1600/DSC_0142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GQqFGgXwIyg/VCvHfkQD1RI/AAAAAAAABjg/lCI__TLizrQ/s1600/DSC_0142.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sugar cane on the move</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w4GHTlhDdM8/VCvHbeyoI_I/AAAAAAAABjY/EDC1c3czLDs/s1600/DSC_0137.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w4GHTlhDdM8/VCvHbeyoI_I/AAAAAAAABjY/EDC1c3czLDs/s1600/DSC_0137.JPG" height="133" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and in the field</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Labasa town was one large Indian market place with sales assistants everywhere trying to help you to buy, which we eventually did. The 3 hour bus trip back was trying as everyone was going home to vote in the elections, so we were packed in standing just like the London Underground , the difference being everybody talked to you.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We dinghied up the river to see our friend Irish Nick , who has a major project on renovating his old steel boat. He took us into the nearby village of Yaroi to perform the traditional ceremony of Sevu Sevu.<br />
On most of rural Fiji and the islands the land is run by the chiefs on behalf of the clan. When you visit it is very important you bring some Kava root properly wrapped up in newspaper and ribbon. You give it to the village headman who then brings you to see the chief, where you sit cross legged on the floor with the soles of your feet facing away from the chief. We were also kitted out in Sulus ( traditional male skirts) as a mark of respect. The head man then says a few words in Fijian explaining to the chief where you have come from and offers the chief the Kava. At this point you need to keep your head down. If the chief likes the cut of your jib he will clap his hands and accept the Kava. After that you engage in a bit of small talk and you are accepted as a member of the village. Until then you are a non person. Once you are a member of the village you can come and go as you please and get shown around.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We spent the afternoon with James and Mosessa going to see their vegetables on the hill at the back of the village. Their young cousin climbed a 70 foot swaying palm tree bare footed to dislodge multiple coconuts. No climbing crampons for these boys! Armed with these, large bunches of bananas and chillies, we repaired to their front lawn ,dehusked the coconuts and drank the milk before eating the white part of the coconut. You never go hungry or thirsty round here.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gNfzxybRlig/VCx92O9iOUI/AAAAAAAABkg/23tS0Wedlfs/s1600/DSC_0273.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gNfzxybRlig/VCx92O9iOUI/AAAAAAAABkg/23tS0Wedlfs/s1600/DSC_0273.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coconut hunter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5I7ui0rTimU/VCx-6qvqJ5I/AAAAAAAABko/SCg1VMtFEwI/s1600/DSC_0274.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5I7ui0rTimU/VCx-6qvqJ5I/AAAAAAAABko/SCg1VMtFEwI/s1600/DSC_0274.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">on his way to the top</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
We left Savu Savu on the 23 rd of September in company with our Dutch friends Freda and Ernest in a big Catamaran called Tara. A lot of American boats were delaying their departure because it was rough, but Kika coped easily with just one reef in the mainin 20-25 knots of wind. We could lay a course for Nemena reef some 20 miles off on a fine reach and were interested to hear from Ernest that he had to use his engine. Catamarans are not brilliant to windward. Once we got to the reef it was significant to note that our two chart plotter systems were 200 metres out on the location of the pass into the reef. You definitely need good light to get in here!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dLR3ZGJqPTQ/VCxztoMosrI/AAAAAAAABjw/HbhO6AecTOs/s1600/DSC_0462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dLR3ZGJqPTQ/VCxztoMosrI/AAAAAAAABjw/HbhO6AecTOs/s1600/DSC_0462.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Breakers over the reef on a calm day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Picking up a mooring, we went snorkelling on the coral beds and were treated to an evening chorus from all the birds roosting in nests on the trees on the island. At a lower level there were blue faced boobies, and tropical birds of paradise with their long white tails. Higher up Frigate birds which look a bit like Pterodactyls soared on the hill lift from the island. Apparently on the other side of the island there's a luxury hotel where you can experience the remote tropical island experience for £2000 a night. The Hotel only has about 10 guests. I think we would have got a frosty reception if we had turned up and asked where the showers were.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
From Nemena we had a lovely sail the next day to Makogai Island.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qapVsfWQxvs/VCx7GaI1UvI/AAAAAAAABkY/ZICRV1tgp-M/s1600/DSC_0455.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qapVsfWQxvs/VCx7GaI1UvI/AAAAAAAABkY/ZICRV1tgp-M/s1600/DSC_0455.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The anchorage was off a mariculture research station. After going through the sevu sevu ceremony we were shown round. In the old days this island had been the Leprosarium for the whole of the South Pacific. It had around 4,000 residents most of whom died here. The cemetery under the trees was a spooky place with gravestones at all angles undermined by termite action.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hvAWbvlloc4/VC2lB27RFvI/AAAAAAAABl4/3WlH2PyQsHI/s1600/DSC_0443.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hvAWbvlloc4/VC2lB27RFvI/AAAAAAAABl4/3WlH2PyQsHI/s1600/DSC_0443.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cemetery covered a large area, only part of which had been cleared.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The patients had lived in groups of huts together with their compatriots from their own islands. The layout showed the Europeans to have the best site with the most generous spacing. The colony had everything including a courthouse, two cell jail, and a large cinema where men and women sat on separate sides with the police in the middle. Contact between the sexes was forbidden for lepers.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LLhK1os46Oo/VCx2KIkI-tI/AAAAAAAABj4/IcgYaEHgX-U/s1600/DSC_0425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LLhK1os46Oo/VCx2KIkI-tI/AAAAAAAABj4/IcgYaEHgX-U/s1600/DSC_0425.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Standing in front of the cinema projection room..</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zfCU9whZHuQ/VCx2L2KA2yI/AAAAAAAABkA/wnivPG89XlE/s1600/DSC_0426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zfCU9whZHuQ/VCx2L2KA2yI/AAAAAAAABkA/wnivPG89XlE/s1600/DSC_0426.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">..and looking past the seating area towards the remains of the screen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
In the 1960s with the advent of drugs like Dapsone the last lepers left, fortunately cured and the place became an Agricultural research station where they had introduced the Australian easy care sheep to Fiji. We saw a few in the fields on the main island of Vita Levu. It molts its own wool, looks a bit like a goat, baas like a lamb, and most importantly survives in the tropics.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
The centres last reincarnation was as a mariculture research centre. Not much seems to go on, but they have got a few Hawksbill turtles they are growing in tanks for release. There was another tank where they were growing giant clams. These get placed on the sea bed along with the old iron hospital beds which are supposed to encourage coral . We snorkelled down to them and had an underwater lie down on the hospital beds. Inside the clams lies an evil looking suction tube. Once the jaws of the clam close, a stray fish has got no chance gripped in its vice like jaws; if you stuck your arm in you would lose it!<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-scOcrUMogfo/VCx4GL3DTRI/AAAAAAAABkI/eb-5001Rbf8/s1600/DSC_0408.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-scOcrUMogfo/VCx4GL3DTRI/AAAAAAAABkI/eb-5001Rbf8/s1600/DSC_0408.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big enough to swallow your arm!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--HX8JUNnjm0/VCx4VuwAcyI/AAAAAAAABkQ/BnEiwOaDl10/s1600/DSC_0409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--HX8JUNnjm0/VCx4VuwAcyI/AAAAAAAABkQ/BnEiwOaDl10/s1600/DSC_0409.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The clam tank</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Our next overnight stop was at Naingani Island where we didn't see a soul. We then went gingerly inside the main reef off Vitu<br />
Levu and picked our way into a beautiful anchorage deep in Vitu Levu Bay opposite a small village.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We got ferried ashore by a local boat and jumped on a local bus to go shopping in the nearby town of Raki Raki a one hour bus ride away. I got talking to a local farmer from the village called Makogai, and we had lunch together in town. He was 32 with a four year old daughter. He farmed on the clan lands in his village and sold his vegetables at the market in Raki. Makogai reckoned his family could survive quite well on 60 Fiji dollars a week(£20). He had no rent to pay, no heating or electricity bills, most of the families food came from their village supplemented by purchasing a large sack of rice and Gerry can of cooking oil. Health and education were free but clothing and transport were major items of expenditure and he was not planning to have more than 2 children. He supplemented his farming income sometimes by cutting and gathering sugar cane, back breaking work under a hot sun. Even small farmers like Makogai use quite large quantities of Nitrogen based fertiliser on their land, so the sugar beet boys use even more. No wonder the run off from the rivers is destroying the coral reefs.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5OHTvPjud0Q/VC2c9FXUBhI/AAAAAAAABlg/QycmjKgCgrY/s1600/DSC_0617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5OHTvPjud0Q/VC2c9FXUBhI/AAAAAAAABlg/QycmjKgCgrY/s1600/DSC_0617.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loading the narrow gauge railway wagons in the mid-day sun</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bl6CM1AJCiE/VC2m3yqGkTI/AAAAAAAABmE/lPlgX-Aza10/s1600/DSC_0624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bl6CM1AJCiE/VC2m3yqGkTI/AAAAAAAABmE/lPlgX-Aza10/s1600/DSC_0624.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trusty tractor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We drank some Kava together with a nearby cruising boat from Hawii that evening ,presided over by two local lads who played flanker and second row forward in the village rugby team. Kava root is mixed with water and strained through a sieve into a Kava bowl . There is a routine of clapping and saying "bula" before you drain the coconut cup in one go. It tastes like mud and leaves your mouth and lips a bit numb. It is a social lubricant and relaxant and you do get a hangover from drinking too much. Somehow I don't think the drink is going to catch on outside Fiji.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Before leaving Vita Levu bay , Colin and I went ashore to pay our respects to the chief and do Sevu Sevu .<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TQWgUN06GwY/VC2WmIgf_6I/AAAAAAAABlQ/zb1bcGzox_A/s1600/DSC_0580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TQWgUN06GwY/VC2WmIgf_6I/AAAAAAAABlQ/zb1bcGzox_A/s1600/DSC_0580.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The village</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
The village was beautiful and well established. Its water supply came from bore holes in the hills above the village ,which provided clean water even in dry weather. Electricity was coming to the village next year. It was Sunday morning , so we said bula(hello) to a handsomely scrubbed up group of kids attending Sunday school in their beautiful church before the service. The war memorial recorded men from the village who had fought and died with the British army in France in the First World War and in Malaya in the second. The head man and chief were charming. They pointed out an old nag grazing on a tether and joked they were going to send it to princess Anne as a present. They were very pleased that Fiji was going to be back in the Commonwealth and they seemed to regard their ties with Britain with genuine affection.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OvSn4s_0tho/VCyANCJfF1I/AAAAAAAABkw/gjYTpV23W2Q/s1600/DSC_0586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OvSn4s_0tho/VCyANCJfF1I/AAAAAAAABkw/gjYTpV23W2Q/s1600/DSC_0586.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The chief!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lWABwy4Q_iE/VCyAe0NFFGI/AAAAAAAABlA/-zZKmzwFnrI/s1600/DSC_0587.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lWABwy4Q_iE/VCyAe0NFFGI/AAAAAAAABlA/-zZKmzwFnrI/s1600/DSC_0587.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The village..</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c_gYthv_-ls/VCyAPTVHOxI/AAAAAAAABk4/dqwtJ9xHb2I/s1600/DSC_0585.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c_gYthv_-ls/VCyAPTVHOxI/AAAAAAAABk4/dqwtJ9xHb2I/s1600/DSC_0585.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and the children at Sunday School in their Sunday best</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
As we left the village there was a large sign saying "datum post "left by a Chinese mineral extraction company called Tengy. The chief said that the company had wanted to buy the mineral rights, but he had changed his mind and was going to say no. They seem to be waking up to what the Chinese are up to.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We left Vitu Levy bay on Sunday 28 September to make a passage through the reef to Tomba Lamonia Bay. The sea is calm inside the reef and we glided along with a following wind in lovely sunshine. It was rather like being on the Norfolk Broads on a sunny day, apart from the fact that there were no other boats, and rather than sliding into mud if you ran aground, the consequences of hitting a reef are serious. Although the inside passage was quite tortuous at times the chart plotter was accurate and you could see the reefs clearly. Anchoring in the middle of the vast bay was lovely as you eat dinner under the stars surrounded by a wide expanse of water with just a zephyr of a breeze preventing your gin and tonic from warming up too much.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
On Monday 23 we passed through the last of the reefs ,just as the weather changed, the rain came down and we punched our way through a south westerly breeze to Vuda Point Marina. Its like a transit camp for cruisers, where all the boats are like swallows on a telegraph line discussing passage plans for Australia, New Zealand,Vanu Atu and back to the States. Unless you're dug in on a cyclone mooring everybody has to leave soon. Kika is looking for a weather window to cross the notorious Tasman sea.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mg-7BoPtBkw/VC2dAdawIdI/AAAAAAAABlo/9ghUa_TbU_c/s1600/DSC_0688.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mg-7BoPtBkw/VC2dAdawIdI/AAAAAAAABlo/9ghUa_TbU_c/s1600/DSC_0688.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset at Vuda Point Marina</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02288143251258239365noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-37501869483304801772014-09-22T13:48:00.000-07:002014-09-22T13:48:36.929-07:00Tonga to Fiji <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We arrived in Neiafu harbour on 25 August tying up to the customs dock overnight. The following morning we picked up a mooring just off the Moorings charter base, which meant a nice easy dinghy ride ashore and easy access to water and fuel.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DRGUUtrsnnQ/VB-C33dEJQI/AAAAAAAABhw/Fn3klKIxfRw/s1600/IMGP0205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DRGUUtrsnnQ/VB-C33dEJQI/AAAAAAAABhw/Fn3klKIxfRw/s1600/IMGP0205.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kika in the foreground at Neiafu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8ImOk2pd1is/VBuBRU6BOPI/AAAAAAAABck/T47ZPr2ljA4/s1600/DSC_0511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8ImOk2pd1is/VBuBRU6BOPI/AAAAAAAABck/T47ZPr2ljA4/s1600/DSC_0511.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from our mooring</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Tongans are big ,happy easy going people. They have a natural politeness and friendly charm that makes doing business and shopping a delight. The country has been an independent monarchy for over 1000 years. No one has ever invaded Tonga, and in the past they were regarded as the Vikings of the pacific, with an empire that stretched as far as Hawiii. The Samoans still haven't forgiven them.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
The king and a few nobles still own all the land, however every male adult Tongan is entitled to lease 8 acres of land from the king at a peppercorn rent for life which means subsistence farming is the predominant occupation. </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
They persue a very traditional way of life. Men wear long wrap around skirts and for formal occasions or if someone has died in the family you wear a piece of woven matting on top of the skirt (a ta'ovala). If you are very close to the departed person you wear even more matting. All the graves are beautifully decorated with colourful flowers and matting. Walking down the street the first thing you notice is free range pigs with piglets in tow. Both houses and cars are in a poor state of repair indicating low per capita income. Nobody starves , but there's not much money for extras and the country is poor.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
After a day in town and a couple of good evenings ashore it was time for Richard to go home via Nuku Alofa and Los Angeles. As always he's been great company and everyone was sad to see him return to work where he is taking the Welsh government to task over their failure to run the health service properly.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We got ourselves sorted and went on a diving trip before Nigel left. Beluga diving were well organised and took us to a coral reef near an island. It was superb with walls of impressive coral down to 20 metres , numerous fish including reef sharks, caves to enter, and a split in the rock you could swim up. Water clarity was terrific and my only problem was using up too much oxygen. I had to share the dive masters tank towards the end. Dirk from Dancing bear who dived with us told me that as you got more experienced you stop panicking and breathe less.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We took one trip out to the islands with Nigel before he left. The routine is to stock up with supplies and then head out to the numerous anchorages in the chain of islands. Its easy sailing in sheltered water rather like going around the Greek islands. Our first trip with Nigel was to a place called Port Maurelle where there is a big sandy bay. We went together with our friend Bev from CoCo who was on her own, so I crewed for Bev on the way out and Colin skippered Kika. We had a lovely pot luck BBQ on the beach that evening with other cruising boats. On Mouranoroa an Australian catamaran the children on board had established a base camp and were camping overnight- just like swallows and Amazon's. Our only difficulty was the logistics of getting hot food onshore in the dinghy as the beach fire was good for standing around , but not cooking.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
In the morning we went ashore again and walked along a track to a village. There were numerous butterflies of different colours flitting across our path. In the village the only vehicle was a Massey Ferguson 165 tractor used to plough. On an island you just need a boat to get you into town or to go fishing, and it was lovely to visit a place where there were just footpaths.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eJgRV6Z8sC4/VB8tBmisO9I/AAAAAAAABe8/feyNIN_ZNeM/s1600/IMGP0223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eJgRV6Z8sC4/VB8tBmisO9I/AAAAAAAABe8/feyNIN_ZNeM/s1600/IMGP0223.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mum takes the kids for a Sunday morning walk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Most people were indoors as it was a Sunday, however we met some kids on the beach , covering themselves with sand, several families of pigs beachcoming and looking for crabs in the water, and a cheerful lady sitting outside her house scratching the belly of her favouraite sow who was lying next to her grunting contentedly.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pLzNBcla-wg/VB8sX1I4YfI/AAAAAAAABe0/2FsgXAzQPnM/s1600/IMGP0230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pLzNBcla-wg/VB8sX1I4YfI/AAAAAAAABe0/2FsgXAzQPnM/s1600/IMGP0230.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hands on farming</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We returned to Nieafu and saw Nigel off the next morning. We will miss all the jokes and music( we've had some great sessions) .Nigel went home via Nuku Alofa where he drunk some cava and suitably relaxed, climbed the sky tower in Auckland, where he sent Bridget an email suggesting I had mortgaged Kika to pay for my champagne bill-some things don't change!</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
On Monday 1 September Colin and I went off to the Botanical gardens on the other side of the island run by Haniteli Fa'anumu and his delightful wife Lucy. Haniteli had always wanted to have a botanical garden and encourage a natural forest. However when he told his father his ambition the old man thought about it told Haniteli it was a noble idea. He also told Haniteli that Tongans would not see the point of growing weeds and packed him off to agricultural college. </div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jFrzDhInD3U/VB8uM0Mc5JI/AAAAAAAABfI/6KZOJAEzX_8/s1600/IMGP0235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jFrzDhInD3U/VB8uM0Mc5JI/AAAAAAAABfI/6KZOJAEzX_8/s1600/IMGP0235.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haniteli with the odd-job man</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
Some years later after he had become minister of agriculture Haniteli began to realise his ambition inheriting some land and leasing more. On one half he left the natural forest completely undisturbed. On the other half he created a garden of every species imaginable with walkways so you can go and see them. Haniteli just wants to see what will grow naturally in Tonga so he doesn't use any fertiliser or mulch.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
He showed us some breadfruit trees that Capt Bligh of the Bounty took back with him to the Caribbean. They hadn't got enough flour to feed the slaves on the sugar plantations and thought the breadfruit would be a good substitute. It didn't work. Captain Bligh had not asked the Tongans what they did with the fruit which was to dig a pit , wrap the fruit up in banana leaves and let it ferment for a few years in the pit when it becomes ready to eat.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Haniteli also uses the fruit from the nono tree as a general pick me up that most Tongans swear by. The secret is picking the fruit off the tree before it goes rancid. Fermenting it in an airtight jar and taking off the liquor.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xqUu01tJ_eQ/VBwAoLGuZ9I/AAAAAAAABeM/SMDltEtXA5E/s1600/DSC_0563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xqUu01tJ_eQ/VBwAoLGuZ9I/AAAAAAAABeM/SMDltEtXA5E/s1600/DSC_0563.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helpful cards along the way</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span id="goog_824904637"></span><span id="goog_824904638"></span><br />
We had a great time looking over the hugely varied garden and then had lunch with. Haniteli and his wife Lucy in their restaurant looking across the spectacular bay. It was most entertaining. Hanitelis's biggest fans are the Tongan Royal family. The Queen Mother is a keen gardener and makes regular visits . Haniteli still has pretty well developed political tentacles, naming a walkway after her. If you put up enough money he would be happy to create a new one just for you!</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Like all good politicians he was a likeable old rogue. We discussed cannibalism and in his view it was a bad Fijian habit the Tongans picked up -in other words move the bad news somewhere else. After a few more beers Lucy took us back to the boat. She's a great cook and caters for parties of up to 80 people there herself so she's starting a Tongan cookery school for Yachties.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-riT771f560A/VBtnCKYh83I/AAAAAAAABcE/gr0a7qhS1KQ/s1600/DSC_0526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-riT771f560A/VBtnCKYh83I/AAAAAAAABcE/gr0a7qhS1KQ/s1600/DSC_0526.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The shoreline of the botanical gardens.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pWKNz_OgNWo/VBtwUz6GJpI/AAAAAAAABcU/UKcK8A9ndWE/s1600/DSC_0555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pWKNz_OgNWo/VBtwUz6GJpI/AAAAAAAABcU/UKcK8A9ndWE/s1600/DSC_0555.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanitelis, the proud founder of the gardens</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
On Tuesday 2 Sept, Colin ,Sally and I set off early in the morning in the whale watch boat, a powerful launch powered by two 400 HP four stroke outboards . It was run by an Australian Andy and his Tongan partner Izzy who was the expert on swimming with humpback Wales. These magnificent creatures come up from Antarctica at this time of year to calve and mate again before returning to the Antarctic. We were looking for females with their calves. The calves drink around 40 gallons of milk a day from their mothers and put on weight at a rate of 75 kilos per day. Mum loses about half her body weight feeding the calf.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yClem8zlJOc/VBuFkG2BmtI/AAAAAAAABcw/cGATHlrXs1M/s1600/DSC_0667.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yClem8zlJOc/VBuFkG2BmtI/AAAAAAAABcw/cGATHlrXs1M/s1600/DSC_0667.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">baby whale playing with belly up</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
It wasn't long before we saw one breaching. Andy then manoeuvres the boat nearby but not too close so the whale can get used to the sound of the engines and when she is relaxed 4 snorkellers slip quietly into the water and try to get round to the front of the whale where she can see you. We tried this 5 times but every time the whale decided she didn't like it and turned tail. Once they do that its impossible to catch up with them.<br />
Finally in the afternoon we came across a relaxed mum who stayed. As we snorkelled towards her you became aware of a vague white blur below you. This enormous creature emerged from the depths almost suspended vertically so you could see the white of her underbelly and pectoral fins with crustaceans on the fins and small fish feeding on them. Her calf was right by her nose and quite playful. Its an eerie feeling as this gigantic laviathon looks you in the eye and just decides to leave you alone. If it had other ideas you wouldn't stand a chance. A quite extraordinary experience.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AVe6CV_3bLk/VB8nIT44ApI/AAAAAAAABek/lgPKjP7W7Ig/s1600/vlcsnap-2014-09-02-17h03m33s248.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AVe6CV_3bLk/VB8nIT44ApI/AAAAAAAABek/lgPKjP7W7Ig/s1600/vlcsnap-2014-09-02-17h03m33s248.png" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and as seen from below...mum was close by. An incredible day.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
For our last few days we set off again for the islands. We cleaned the bottom of the boat in Port Maurelle, there was quite a build up of weed but with three of us working on it it didn't take too long.<br />
After a night next to our Irish friends from Laragh who came aboard for drinks, we anchored the next day off a small island called Lape and went to the village . Only 26 people lived there, mainly older people and children, as there was no real employment apart from selling handicrafts. The only people in the village from outside the island were the teacher and the pastor. The small primary school which took children up to the age of 11 was getting a new lick of paint from David, chair of the parent teachers association.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B357_Yh9aCc/VBvYPBC2rVI/AAAAAAAABd8/wNwFZska-Ho/s1600/DSC_0865.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B357_Yh9aCc/VBvYPBC2rVI/AAAAAAAABd8/wNwFZska-Ho/s1600/DSC_0865.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A good learning environment</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
He invited us over to his island that evening for a Tongan Feast with his family. We were warned off by the island head man Colio, who said David hadn't got a food safety certificate, however David seemed a nice man and we changed anchorage and went anyway.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SEiG6w63j3I/VBvA639wQRI/AAAAAAAABdg/fijFjdbpQ9U/s1600/DSC_0813.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SEiG6w63j3I/VBvA639wQRI/AAAAAAAABdg/fijFjdbpQ9U/s1600/DSC_0813.JPG" height="400" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">School is finished</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YE9DqkxADxI/VB-GF_t3XaI/AAAAAAAABh8/QJIoCSgniHA/s1600/DSC_0842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YE9DqkxADxI/VB-GF_t3XaI/AAAAAAAABh8/QJIoCSgniHA/s1600/DSC_0842.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So we had pals on the beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
After a bit of snorkelling across some Staghorn coral where Sally spotted an Octopus we went ashore at 5pm to join David his wife Hedi and their lovely children for a feast on the beach just below their cemetery where Davids parents and Grand Parents were buried. David got his guitar out, which I accompanied as best I could on the fiddle and two of his daughters did a traditional Polynesian dance.<br />
His two lads stoked up the fire, and a poor 3 month old suckling pig was skewered on a pole , covered in coconut juice to glaze it, and roasted over the fire with the lads turning the spit. Hedi turned up with a load of other goodies and we had a great meal.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ILzf9J3iIXs/VBuhwFtUTUI/AAAAAAAABdQ/kCPSWx_YV4M/s1600/DSC_0950.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ILzf9J3iIXs/VBuhwFtUTUI/AAAAAAAABdQ/kCPSWx_YV4M/s1600/DSC_0950.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pork was very fresh indeed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Over a few more beers David told us that there were goings on at the other island Lape. An old man who lived near the beach had married a wife who was much to young for him . Colio had been caught my being a naughty boy by the pastor and David knew all about it as he was deputy pastor. Colio was not a happy man having his authority undermined, and was conducting an economic war on David and his island. A paradise version of East Enders!</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
David already had 11 children and he admitted his wife would be too tired to have any more, so when Colin kindly took him and his son over to Lape with the rest of the food in the dinghy, Colin was a little surprised to receive a request for some Viagra. There might be more to the tale than meets the eye!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CQjn8ZudFGs/VBvUhn8AhmI/AAAAAAAABdw/T8sfluaYmZ8/s1600/DSC_0914.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CQjn8ZudFGs/VBvUhn8AhmI/AAAAAAAABdw/T8sfluaYmZ8/s1600/DSC_0914.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">David plays and sings for us</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
On our way back to Neifu our paths crossed with a large hump back whale and her calf who put on a great show of aerial acrobatics. As kika was under sail we hove to and stayed with them for 20 minutes.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2yS_CJSH-dc/VBuZY42ObrI/AAAAAAAABdA/4B1GwOx8Z60/s1600/DSC_0988.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2yS_CJSH-dc/VBuZY42ObrI/AAAAAAAABdA/4B1GwOx8Z60/s1600/DSC_0988.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We had a close encounter!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Back at Neifu there was the usual palaver of going round different government and customs offices to get clearance to leave. An additional complication was to find that 2 gallons of salt water had leaked all over the engine and into the engine drip pan. I thought it was a leaky salt water trap initially , however after greasing the trap I found a much more significant leak where the coolant salt water entered the exhaust hose. It had perished the rubber exhaust hose and gone through some pipe underneath as well as corroding a large jubilee clip away. With no exhaust spares Colin and I used some special epoxy putty and tape for mending holes in pipes and exhaust fittings and nipped up a new jubilee clip into it. The next day the repair looked solid and was dry as a bone on running the engine. Dave from Laragh says it will be better than the original fitting!</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We left Tonga at 9.30 am on Tuesday 9 September bound for Savu Savu in Fiji. We all felt much richer for the experience of staying with these generous warm hearted people. What they lacked in material wealth, they more than made up for with strong family and community lives often centred around very active churches. The sense of unbroken tradition going back many centuries,carried out in a lighthearted and cheerful way makes Tongans who they are.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We've had quite reasonable 15 knot average Easterly winds for the first part of this 450 mile passage . On Wednesday evening we caught a large Dorado which we towed for a bit at 6 knots before handlining it in. Seems to tire the fish out and prevent it fighting too much as it reaches the boat. The filleting tecnique Pete taught us works well and it was in the pan before you could say jack Robinson. As we approach Fiji we are acutely aware of a string of reefs, some of them uncharted that make these islands a hazardous place to visit. We will be going at night through the Nanuku passage arriving in Savu Savu at first light Saturday morning which will entail heaving to if we are early. Unfortunately this will mean paying the customs ,health and immigration people overtime rates, no doubt to their great joy!<br />
In the end we needed to motor the last few hours as the wind dropped and arrived late on Friday evening and sneaked our way up a crowded river in the dark with no moon, to pick up a mooring. We awoke on Saturday morning to the sight of real tropical jungle on one side of the river and a morning chorus from all the parakeets. We received instructions from the marina to go back out to the anchorage and await the health quarantine people and customs who take spraying the boat and the regulations quite seriously , but its great to be in a stationary boat and have a full nights sleep.<br />
<br /></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02288143251258239365noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-22475050493963161182014-09-07T18:47:00.000-07:002014-09-07T18:47:26.652-07:00Cook islands to Tonga via Niue <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We had a fairly easy time with the health and customs people on arrival in Rarotonga as it was too rough to get on the boat. We merely got thrown a can of airline insecticide which Colin deployed in a frugal manner ,sparing the ozone layer of the atmosphere. After we had taken down the Yellow Q or quarantine flag ,we were free to walk into town and have several beers along with fish and chips. After French Polynesia its quite bizarre to say Yorranna(hello) to Cook islanders and then have a conversation in colloquial Kiwi. Everyone you talk to is friendly and you could spend all day just walking round town making friends.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
On the evening of Friday 1 August we went along to the last days celebration of the Cook Islands national week in the big auditorium in town. Singing and dancing teams together with their supporters arrive from all the other Cook Islands. They are accommodated in purpose built hostels( one for each island) and each island puts on a magnificent display of Polynesian singing and dancing. On some islands the missionary influence was evident with the women in dresses, however others were completely unreformed with traditional war dances, spears, rapidly wiggling grass skirts and a tremendous pace on the drums. No prizes for guessing who the crowd preferred.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qmzgHXslPsA/VAzjeOJh0NI/AAAAAAAABaQ/ZaZGRxQG68g/s1600/DSC_0875.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qmzgHXslPsA/VAzjeOJh0NI/AAAAAAAABaQ/ZaZGRxQG68g/s1600/DSC_0875.JPG" height="133" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Near the auditorium, we see the world being created...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3XN_NYM6lBg/VAzi_R1dgcI/AAAAAAAABaI/az3ZbIsa0IU/s1600/DSC_0885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3XN_NYM6lBg/VAzi_R1dgcI/AAAAAAAABaI/az3ZbIsa0IU/s1600/DSC_0885.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2nLRlRuN_SI/VAzi6TcrCAI/AAAAAAAABaA/xHrHV2IAv-M/s1600/DSC_0886.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2nLRlRuN_SI/VAzi6TcrCAI/AAAAAAAABaA/xHrHV2IAv-M/s1600/DSC_0886.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
On Saturday my pal Nigel Clay arrived after an exhausting journey via Auckland. Stopovers too short to check into a hotel and unable to doze , for fear of missing your connection are very tiring. Nigel also had to buy a return ticket from Rarotonga back to Auckland otherwise they would not have let him off the plane. Virgin airlines don't make it easy to get a refund with a phone number and web site that don't work! We tired him out further with a morning visit to the local market where he's been testing out ukeleles.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4J5JSH0AKvA/VAZOXaA2rPI/AAAAAAAABWI/mhMNMmKGR5Y/s1600/DSC_0124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4J5JSH0AKvA/VAZOXaA2rPI/AAAAAAAABWI/mhMNMmKGR5Y/s1600/DSC_0124.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ukelele search! We traversed the island to find "the one".</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
As the weather settled down , we repaired the top of the mainsail with loads of sailmakers tape. It had taken quite a bashing in the storm. Later that week an old fashioned two masted inter island freighter arrived in port. She had picked up a dismasted Halberg Rassy yacht called Blue Horizon that had been drifting on the ocean. We understood that they had been caught in the same storm as us, and the crew an elderly couple had been taken off by another ship, casting the boat adrift in the storm. Apart from the dismasting she looked in pretty good shape. The freighter lads had been in touch with the insurers and were making a jury rig to motor sail her back to Tahiti where they could get a new mast. Another boat we know called Amiable dragged her anchor while in a lagoon and sunk.I think we got off lightly.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
On Saturday we were treated to a tour of our neighbours boats. These two traditional double hulled Polynesian sailing craft are from Hawaii. They are sailing round the world using traditional Polynesian methods of navigation. That means no GPS and no compass. The second support boat has got GPS but will only use it in an emergency if the first boat has got into a dangerous situation. So far they have not needed to intervene. The navigators use hand widths to assess the altitude of the sun and stars. They are very aware of currents, wind patterns and birds. They also draw bearing lines along the boat, especially useful for analysing their course at sunrise and sunset and getting a bearing at night on the Southern Cross(due south) and the plough in the north are useful pointers. Extraordinary really to manage across an ocean without compass watch or sextant.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3XBpGAPSZ-A/VAwTkAp6wwI/AAAAAAAABY0/m1uRJ7PV5WQ/s1600/DSC_0912.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3XBpGAPSZ-A/VAwTkAp6wwI/AAAAAAAABY0/m1uRJ7PV5WQ/s1600/DSC_0912.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polynesian sail boat with no Mod Con's</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
They are spreading the message about global warming which will mean the disappearance of many pacific atolls, taking samples of the ocean for temperature and plankton and involving a whole new younger generation of Polynesians in their history and traditions. Rarotonga was a particularly appropriate place to visit as the Rarotongans originally came from Tahiti and then migrated to New Zealand by canoe as the first Maoris.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
On Sunday 3rd of August we went to the main Church on the Island the church of Rarotonga. The church itself is a beautiful white building built out of thick blocks of coral. It is finished with a coral "cement " wash made by grinding and melting the coral down.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7oNaQjd5-Uw/VAZPw4VmqPI/AAAAAAAABWU/B4xeILjceh8/s1600/DSC_1052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7oNaQjd5-Uw/VAZPw4VmqPI/AAAAAAAABWU/B4xeILjceh8/s1600/DSC_1052.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The coral church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We were ushered upstairs and greeted by the congregation. The men were in white suits and the ladies wore beautiful white dresses with flower adorned bonnets with mother of pearl on top.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
The service was essentially non conformist, but the whole place came to life when the singing started. The best were the local Rarotongan hymns. It was so loud you felt pressure on your chest. The men and women sang both in canonical parts and in harmonies. The preacher whose was on a tall dais and had delivered an old fashioned fire and brimstone sermon, was smiling broadly while he urged them on singing away himself. They could give a Welsh Male Voice Choir a run for their money any time.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
After the service we were invited back to the church hall for a"cuppa" - how British. We strolled across via the graveyard where all the islands notable citizens were buried including ex prime ministers and governors and learnt the history of Christianity in the Cooks over some tasty egg mayonnaise sandwiches.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7A3_Hz7d8xE/VAZRRbVw1oI/AAAAAAAABWg/KHqr8xvnboc/s1600/IMG_3289.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7A3_Hz7d8xE/VAZRRbVw1oI/AAAAAAAABWg/KHqr8xvnboc/s1600/IMG_3289.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking good after a refreshing Cuppa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
In the 1820s a ship called the Cumberland landed, had fights with the locals and took some of them off forcibly in an activity known as "blackbirding" ie Slavery. The Captain was called Cap'n Goodenough an oxymoron if ever there was one. One of the prisoners was a daughter of the local chief . Her name was Tepaeru Ariki. The Cumberland dropped her off at the neighbouring Cook Island of Aititutaki having second thoughts about shipping this cargo off to Peru as the colonial authorities in Australia and New Zealand were starting to clamp down on slavery.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
The population of the small island of Aitutaki had already converted to Christianity. Tepaeru could see it was a good thing as the old religion had been all about maintaining the power of the chiefs, by offering up any of the lower orders for human sacrifice if they stepped out of line. She eventually met John Williams of the London Missionary society and went back with him to Rarotonga where she persuaded her Dad and all the other tribal big wigs to give it a try. Just about the whole Polynesian population now attends a church of some sort, and most of the islands organisations and societies eg scouts and guides are essentially church led.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Monday was a National Holiday where the prime minister gives a state of the nation address in town, so we set off to hike across the island using a track that lead 2000 feet up to a needle of rock with a face carved on the stone.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rjbOZLKGSF0/VAwVyhDDSxI/AAAAAAAABZA/iB2NJRTC914/s1600/DSC_0089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rjbOZLKGSF0/VAwVyhDDSxI/AAAAAAAABZA/iB2NJRTC914/s1600/DSC_0089.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the trail, walking past a "rock face "</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ihwyhsQg948/VAzqeg3iyHI/AAAAAAAABao/Vnt4xh7VCfI/s1600/DSC_0102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ihwyhsQg948/VAzqeg3iyHI/AAAAAAAABao/Vnt4xh7VCfI/s1600/DSC_0102.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></div>
<br />
On the way up we had a chat with a farmer clearing his land and on the top met Bob originally from Bristol who had made his home here. For expatriates the local wages are poor, so you really need to be running your own business. Education and health are not brilliant ,in fact the locals have a saying "if in a pain get on the plane". Having said that everyone loves it here because it is such a friendly laid back place where everything is safe. The track was quite steep with a lot of sliding over roots in the forest, so after 3 hours we were really pleased to get to the waterfall where we all went swimming. Poor Colin tripped over some hidden barbed wire and grazed his nose quite badly.. The view from the rock needle at the top of the pass with the other peak, which was a volcanic crater in view was magnificent. Up at the crater opposite there was natural water, so during the war men camped up there as observers looking for Japanese aircraft.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nwcfk75kLTg/VAZSHCzpzTI/AAAAAAAABWs/UnNiCeeK3GA/s1600/DSC_0106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nwcfk75kLTg/VAZSHCzpzTI/AAAAAAAABWs/UnNiCeeK3GA/s1600/DSC_0106.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three bathing beauties cool off after a long hike</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
From the other side of the island, we hitched a lift from a lovely Hawaiian /American lady Cat who went out of her way to take us all the way back to the boat via her home where we met her husband Andy a radio ham with a huge aerial behind the house. He gave us the marine frequency for distress purposes. We talked about the recent parliamentary elections. The government was expected to be kicked out, but mysteriously won. Cat was sure there had been Gerrymandering, as a high up lady married to a minister had let slip that they would ensure a result prior to the election,that had turned out exactly as she predicted. Of course they know how to do it on Rarotonga as the first prime minister "Sir " Albert Henry was forced to resign in 1978 over electoral fraud and got stripped of his knighthood by the queen in 1979. He's still Sir Albert Henry in the graveyard ,with a bronze bust and a garland of flowers round his neck, so maybe that sort of thing gets forgiven when you go upstairs!</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
On Wednesday,we hired a small convertible car to look around the island. Nigel completed his search for the perfect ukelele when we arrived at the prison.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PR5zZ04U6aA/VAzn62oArUI/AAAAAAAABac/-4g5a9wLE7E/s1600/DSC_0162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PR5zZ04U6aA/VAzn62oArUI/AAAAAAAABac/-4g5a9wLE7E/s1600/DSC_0162.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jail house rock</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
There are a total of 34 prisoners for the whole of the Cook islands and the regime is fairly relaxed as there is nowhere to go off an island. We looked round the prison shop and didn't see much. We were about to leave when we met Ricky, a charming fellow doing 2 years for drugs. As Ricky explained they are pretty draconian on Cannabis and he agreed with Sally that he had "definitely learnt his lesson" - possibly for the nearby warders benefit. Ricky agreed to make Nigel a top of the range ukelele. He sent Nigel off to town for machine screw tuners and fishing line for strings as Ricky "was a bit stuck "when it came to getting into town. Nigel returned the next day with his own guitar and had a jam session with one of the other prisoners in the morning with all of them listening before they went to work. Unfortunately we regret to inform readers of this blog that the prison authorities were not keen on photography of this session of jail house rock . The ukelele when it was finished was beautifully carved with motifs all about Nigel and his family and personal philosophy.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
The other side of the island was good for snorkelling and we saw a trumpet fish and very large Moray eel lurking at the bottom of the coral.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
All the cruisers here are very friendly. We made firm friends with Brian and Carol from Napier in New Zealand over some after dinner sheep jokes on Kika. They were 72 and 68 respectively and still making fantastic voyages in their yacht Charioteer a fast strong 15 metre monohull. We envied Brian his workshop and fantastic engine access. They very kindly loaned us cruising guides for Fiji and Vanu Atu.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--fEt7e_DWqo/VAZTCJkNuAI/AAAAAAAABW4/W8r09deTriA/s1600/DSC_0117.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--fEt7e_DWqo/VAZTCJkNuAI/AAAAAAAABW4/W8r09deTriA/s1600/DSC_0117.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carol and Brian aboard Kika</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We are also became good mates with a lady called Maya who is a Rarotongan, born in New Zealand to Rarotongan parents who had never been back. Maya came on holiday and ended up staying running the fudge shop at Cooks corner in the centre of town. She's got Afro style hair and loads of tattoos her local relatives disapprove of. We had a lovely dinner with her at the Ariki restaurant on the outside of town before we left, and Maya dropped off a delicious box of fudge at the boat which Colin has rationed out to keep us going all the way to Niue.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VqY-plt-JjQ/VAZUC-efDrI/AAAAAAAABXE/XZ1GxLvyZAo/s1600/IMG_3282.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VqY-plt-JjQ/VAZUC-efDrI/AAAAAAAABXE/XZ1GxLvyZAo/s1600/IMG_3282.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maya joins us for an evening meal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Richard Lewis arrived on Monday 11 August from Wales and with characteristic persuasion managed to blag his way out of buying a return ticket from Rarotonga. He came out last and it was touch and go whether they were going to put him back on the next plane.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We've serviced the engine, fuelled ,provisioned, gas, and watered up and I spent half a day going round customs and immigration before leaving. There's a new broom in from New Zealand this week who has been tightening up on procedures and is making life a pain in the neck for everyone. When we left the dockside the next morning we had to leave within 15 minutes of receiving our final clearance chit. Colin had to pack the dinghy up in the harbour entrance. All completely unnecessary.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We left Rarotonga, at 12am on Tuesday 12th August with Colin, Nigel Clay, Richard Lewis and myself on board. Sally has managed to get a ride on an American boat called Grasshopper,so we will hopefully see her in Tonga.<br />
There was a lot of debate amongst the cruising boats as to the best time to go. Bob McDavitt a professional forecaster has been telling some of the American boats to wait for the weekend. We took a look at the GRIB weather files which didn't seem too bad apart from a trough of variable winds and rain which we would have to get through,so we decided to go for it. There's very rarely an ideal weather window and you can get port rot waiting for it.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
After a day of 15 -20 knot winds astern we hit the trough at 4am on Wednesday 13 August with heavy rain and lumpy seas. The rain continued all day for 24 hours and seemed to soak everything. It was just like being back in the Irish Sea. Richard was having a tough time with sea sickness for the first 2 days, so we were very pleased when the cloud lifted and the sea moderated on the morning of 14 August. We then spent the next 24 hours motoring or motor sailing through weak winds.<br />
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Nigel has gone through the fishing tackle box and was trailing a large lure when he was rewarded with a magnificent Dorado at midday on 14 August. It fought hard but eventually arrived in the cockpit.We found the best method of quietening it down was to put a tea towel over its head.We had Dorado sushi for lunch and Nigel cooked Dorado steak for dinner. He dipped the fish in a light batter of cornflour and mustard and it tasted fantastic.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GkCy5bIVsoY/VAZaZytCgUI/AAAAAAAABX0/YEplnHLdMgY/s1600/DSC_0016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GkCy5bIVsoY/VAZaZytCgUI/AAAAAAAABX0/YEplnHLdMgY/s1600/DSC_0016.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nigel and the one that didn't get away</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span id="goog_1606031755"></span><span id="goog_1606031756"></span><br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NokSfWpkiK8/VAZbUcJosGI/AAAAAAAABYI/QYqDq3Oijro/s1600/DSC_0035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NokSfWpkiK8/VAZbUcJosGI/AAAAAAAABYI/QYqDq3Oijro/s1600/DSC_0035.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dorado steak... the catch of the day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OLg1chA5tWo/VAZbPe50CDI/AAAAAAAABYA/k-47EUqaFXw/s1600/DSC_0039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OLg1chA5tWo/VAZbPe50CDI/AAAAAAAABYA/k-47EUqaFXw/s1600/DSC_0039.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nigel wires the Flying fish. A very tempting bait</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The trade winds gradually returned to make sailing easier. Nigel's had two more takes of a very large Dorado and a marlin both of which managed to wriggle off the lure. The Marlin broke the line. One fish swam under the keel and got off that way. When we get a fish on , we stop the boat by heaving to but after that its very difficult to keep the boat broadside on to the fish which can run in any direction.<br />
We've had a rather slow passage taking 6 days to reach Niue, however on the morning of 17 August Colin spotted the island on our starboard beam. It looks long and relatively flat. We should be picking up a mooring around midday.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We arrived in Niue at lunchtime and picked up a deep water mooring on instructions from Niue radio. There is always a big swell on the pier at Nuie , so you scramble onto the steps or a ladder and then suspend your dinghy from a crane hook and hoist it onto the pier.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PFak59szT4o/VA0H-BIktpI/AAAAAAAABbw/k9VNxA-MOzE/s1600/DSC_0099.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PFak59szT4o/VA0H-BIktpI/AAAAAAAABbw/k9VNxA-MOzE/s1600/DSC_0099.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Richard controlling the hoist, like a boy with a new toy!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The immigration and customs gentleman met us on the pier, piled us into his van and took us down to his office. They were charming ,and with a minimum of formalities we were deposited back at Niue Yacht club for a beer.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DoVyjFb0Z-U/VAwXKEDJGxI/AAAAAAAABZM/E5Q5ZlsGCCI/s1600/DSC_0401.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DoVyjFb0Z-U/VAwXKEDJGxI/AAAAAAAABZM/E5Q5ZlsGCCI/s1600/DSC_0401.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ira and the boys</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Niue yacht club is a unique institution. Its membership spans the world and exceeds the total population of Nuie easily. For $20 you can become a life member which gives you no privileges but supports the club. It is run by two ex New Zealanders Keith and Sue, ably assisted by their local manager Ira who runs the bar and the backpackers hostel upstairs.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Keith freely admits, there are no local members who sail as Niueans regard the sea as a hard place to make a living fishing and don't see the point of sailing. The club itself is great. Free wi fi, an exchange library, information on the weather and everything local , finally a well stocked bar where you can set the world to rights with other cruising boats.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Niue is an independent state, with a population of around 2,000 souls. It is in free association with New Zealand and relies on New Zealand for foreign policy and defence. The police force has a jail that hasn't locked anyone up for over 4 years. Our friend Tony the police chief says he wants to organise a sponsored overtnight stay in jail for charity. Nuieans are mainly of Tongan or Samooan descent and are the only people who can own land. You can buy a house but you have to lease the land. The people are unfailingly cheerful and generous, so you never fail to have a conversation or two walking around town. Its a hard place to make a living as the soil above the coral bed is only thin and the only root crop that grows well is Taro ( a plant with big leaves ) that taste a bit like spinach when baked. Nealy 500 Nuieans have Government jobs of one sort or another so that and subsistence agriculture on their bush farms keep them going. There is no real poverty on the island, although none of them are rich. Occasionally there is trouble when distant relatives who have settled in New Zealand come back and try and claim the land off another member of the family who has been farming it for 20 years. These disputes are settled by a judge from New Zealand under Maoori law.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Captain Cook tried to land here twice and got beaten off by the locals. He called Nuie "Savage Island" as a result, the complete opposite of this friendly place today.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
On Tuesday we heard from Keith in the yacht club that they had been in touch with a German Yacht 70 miles out that was having difficulty with her steering. We offered to help if we could so the next day as we wandered into town I was picked up by Tony Edwards the police chief who had forgotten his handcuffs and I was taken to his office where we got the information that a German 12.5 metre ketch called Fidel was now 30 miles out and requesting a tow as she was probably going to drift past Nuie. We set off and picked her up 20 miles North of Nuie. The skipper was a 72 year old German called Maurice Hermann. He told us he was very tired after trying to steer with a jury rudder for 4 days. Conditions were good with 10-15 knots of wind so we came up on his leeward side and Colin threw him a light line which was attached to a towing line. We rigged it up with a rope bridle between two stern cleats and a section of line wound around a rubber mooring snubber that took some of the jarring out of the line. Maurice was able to assist us with his engines and so using our sails on a reach and our engine as well we were able to tow him back at 4.5 knots, reaching Nuie at dusk. We radioed ahead to Nuie , so Tom and Dirk from Dancing Bear met us at the moorings in their dinghy and were able to take the towing line and pass it through the mooring eye giving it back to Maurice. We tied up on another mooring and heard via the police chief Tony on the radio that "operation Fidel" coordinated by Wellington in New Zealand could now stand down - very grand!<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WTTZP-HumlA/VAZh-jlKCOI/AAAAAAAABYk/q-dQGkGrKhs/s1600/DSC_0078.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WTTZP-HumlA/VAZh-jlKCOI/AAAAAAAABYk/q-dQGkGrKhs/s1600/DSC_0078.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fidel on tow</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Kikas crew went into the yacht club for a well earned beer followed by a delicious curry across the road. Keith and Sue could not have been kinder. We were all given Nuie yacht club T shirts, all mooring fees were waived and Keith arranged for us to have a free tour of the island with Sue the next day . Tony Edwards subsequently came to lunch with us and Maurice on the Friday to pass on his thanks and those of the Prime Minister . Eeeek!</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Our tour of Niue on Thursday was brilliant. On the eastern side of the island there are vast chasms caused by cracks in the coral. One of these involved going down 181 steps to a pool of holy water. The other tracks led through chasms and tunnels so a vast sea cave , where the ocean swell pounded in over a rock bridge.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3g-fPNyBabU/VAzz7rLO9GI/AAAAAAAABbE/N_PMgaiLx4w/s1600/DSC_0203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3g-fPNyBabU/VAzz7rLO9GI/AAAAAAAABbE/N_PMgaiLx4w/s1600/DSC_0203.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An oasis hidden in a chasm</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nIijIS-1Xp0/VAz8IddrYDI/AAAAAAAABbU/aiwyWH2wILw/s1600/DSC_0216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nIijIS-1Xp0/VAz8IddrYDI/AAAAAAAABbU/aiwyWH2wILw/s1600/DSC_0216.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and a cave by the sea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span id="goog_970454385"></span><span id="goog_970454386"></span><br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k9C1MSGFLag/VAz-OVvAXxI/AAAAAAAABbg/Bip4IVi5gGo/s1600/DSC_0237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k9C1MSGFLag/VAz-OVvAXxI/AAAAAAAABbg/Bip4IVi5gGo/s1600/DSC_0237.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a calm day and the waves crash in </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The power of the ocean was impressive even on a calm day, so it was hard to imagine the devastation of Hurricane Herta in 2004 when 150 knot winds combined with a very high spring tide to throw boulders of coral ashore, felling all coastal buildings and trees in its path. The only fatalities were a mother and baby. Mum had forgotten something in her house after being evacuated and went back to get it !<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lYAmp9fwUII/VAwZQN6r_BI/AAAAAAAABZk/wvL1s7Pi_g8/s1600/DSC_0172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lYAmp9fwUII/VAwZQN6r_BI/AAAAAAAABZk/wvL1s7Pi_g8/s1600/DSC_0172.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hurricane Herta took a heavy toll</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
We travelled across the wooded centre of the island past bush plantations of Taro and Semolina bushes. If you want to grow a plot, you book the bulldozer for the day to clear the land. Then you burn all the brushwood. ( the ash improves the soil). Finally you plant it with Taro. Potatoes don't grow here and you can only carry on growing on one plot for 7 years before it is exhausted. The island doesn't have cattle or horses , but pigs abound and you need electric fencing to stop them digging up the Taro</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We finished the day off snorkelling in a rock chasm towards the North of the island that communicated with the sea. The usual panoply of tropical fish combined with steep sided underwater walls provided a unique environment. You could get out and sun yourself on the rocks afterwards- lovely.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--H-w4R_8_cg/VAwanacZJ3I/AAAAAAAABZw/P5Fyu6IG1kU/s1600/DSC_0367.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--H-w4R_8_cg/VAwanacZJ3I/AAAAAAAABZw/P5Fyu6IG1kU/s1600/DSC_0367.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An idyllic spot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
On Thursday night the wind shifted around to the SW making the anchorage very uncomfortable. Along with a number of other boats we decided to leave on Friday for Tonga. We went ashore to say our farewells, provision and dinghies ashore past the supply ship that was anchored off the breakwater with sternlines to the breakwater. Containers were craned onto a barge which was towed ashore by a tug and craned onto wagons with the islands crane. A difficult and potentially very dangerous undertaking in a big swell, skilfully carried out by men who moved very fast at the dangerous bits.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We had lunch with Maurice and Andy the police chief. Maurice told us that his rudder had nearly fallen off in the Atlantic and he was towed 700 miles to St Lucia by a fishing vessel. He had also hit a reef in Aitutaki. We all thought it might be time for him to hang up his sea boots.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PfrNWaszMNs/VAwYCPqWOfI/AAAAAAAABZY/QOe-knNe8nQ/s1600/DSC_0402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PfrNWaszMNs/VAwYCPqWOfI/AAAAAAAABZY/QOe-knNe8nQ/s1600/DSC_0402.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Chief of Police and Maurice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
We left Nieu at 1500 hrs on Friday 22 August after the skipper had managed to pass up the outboard motor from the dinghy and not noticed the severe swell had untied the temporary knot on the painter . As I drifted off, pushed by wind, it was a classic case of being up shit creek without a paddle. Colin saved the day by diving in with some oars. We managed to paddle the boat on to an Australian boat called Mooranaroa. The skippers lad Boa very kindly towed us back to Kika in his dinghy.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
The first night was an uncomfortable reach with a big sea and 25-30 knot winds. We had 3 reefs in the main and were still batting along at over 7 knots.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Gradually conditions settled down and we had a more comfortable sail. We crossed the international date line to miss out Sunday, so we arrived in the Northern Vavau group of islands of the Kingdom of Tonga on Monday 25 August after 2 days at sea and a 250 mile crossing. After beating up past some uninhabited islands and seeing a large humpback whale surface in our path, we tied up at the customs dock at 3pm and repaired by dinghy to the Aquarium Bar to swap tall stories with all the other crews that had just arrived.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zSvcfJy3zC0/VAztzB1bQgI/AAAAAAAABa0/PsCSqoF064A/s1600/DSC_0406.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zSvcfJy3zC0/VAztzB1bQgI/AAAAAAAABa0/PsCSqoF064A/s1600/DSC_0406.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">All smiles, ashore in Tonga.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02288143251258239365noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-81794723245384428222014-08-11T14:27:00.001-07:002014-08-11T14:30:22.802-07:00Leeward Islands to the Cook Islands <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
On 14 July, we had a lovely evening sail under Genoa up the inside passage of the Raiatea reef, to Uturoa Town dock, where we were berthed between Beverley an Australian lady , and Harry a colourful South African now Australian with his crew Audrey on Malua. They all came over to dinner on Kika a subsequent evening and Beverly brought home made Sushi for starters .<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HnBp3uNDb8c/U-Wa2vewxTI/AAAAAAAABTk/vzquqZT3_0E/s1600/DSC_0465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HnBp3uNDb8c/U-Wa2vewxTI/AAAAAAAABTk/vzquqZT3_0E/s1600/DSC_0465.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beverly and the Sushi Starters (a good name for a pop group!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cAFoHv_WYOA/U-WZ55cx_wI/AAAAAAAABTY/5hNoXeLX2cs/s1600/DSC_0168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cAFoHv_WYOA/U-WZ55cx_wI/AAAAAAAABTY/5hNoXeLX2cs/s1600/DSC_0168.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The town quay, Uturoa.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span id="goog_59401803"></span><span id="goog_59401804"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8a_7l3YDVow/U-Qkk-6XrPI/AAAAAAAABO8/95LLPeystCo/s1600/DSC_0680.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8a_7l3YDVow/U-Qkk-6XrPI/AAAAAAAABO8/95LLPeystCo/s1600/DSC_0680.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down from the mountains to the lagoon and the crashing waves over the reef.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The reefs are formed outside the islands by the deposition of coral. Fresh water run off from the mountains then carves out deep channels, between the outside of the reef and the land. The water only exits at a few places known as passes which accounts for the constant outflow of water through the passes. Interestingly French Polynesia sits between two tidal systems with very little moon tide as a result. Sun tide then comes into play, so the best time to approach a pass is at midday when tidal flow will be less and the sun directly overhead will show up those treacherous patches of coral. Dark blue means deep water, light blue shallower, and white very shallow where the sun reflects directly off the white calcified coral.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tY1bQi02wWI/U-Qz6ZjIqGI/AAAAAAAABQ0/0lrbU_gm3K0/s1600/DSC_0524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tY1bQi02wWI/U-Qz6ZjIqGI/AAAAAAAABQ0/0lrbU_gm3K0/s1600/DSC_0524.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Church spire on Tahaa. Bora Bora in the distance.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The channels inside the reefs have been well buoyed by the French, and make beautiful calm sailing. There is no swell as all the waves break on the outside reef , with a constant roar so you can cruise around in lovely sunshine without even having your Gin and Tonic shaken. The shallow areas of live coral are of course a haven for every form of marine life imaginable which makes these coral islands a Mecca for snorkelling and diving.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s8iJWmkN3to/U-ktrFaBkHI/AAAAAAAABU8/NFyiBmaZKKE/s1600/G0020019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s8iJWmkN3to/U-ktrFaBkHI/AAAAAAAABU8/NFyiBmaZKKE/s1600/G0020019.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Difficult to see ahead at times!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pt1Iwqi-XKY/U-ktvBlFA8I/AAAAAAAABVE/20UIGR7QpWM/s1600/GOPR0061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pt1Iwqi-XKY/U-ktvBlFA8I/AAAAAAAABVE/20UIGR7QpWM/s1600/GOPR0061.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
We dined out at a small creperie run by two French speaking Belgians Patrick and his wife Patrice . Their little van was parked in a romantic spot on the waters edge. Patrick had put fairy lighting under the awning and you could sit at tables watching the sun go down , listening to the gentle sound of a French chantreuse, while eating a delicious crepe, washed down with an ice cream. Only the French really understand how to create ambience from very little.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wqZuWy8eFFw/U-QnfrXnHfI/AAAAAAAABPI/PISn2wuTQO4/s1600/DSC_0176.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wqZuWy8eFFw/U-QnfrXnHfI/AAAAAAAABPI/PISn2wuTQO4/s1600/DSC_0176.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The biggest decision of the day...coconut? or is it mango ice cream?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Staying at the town dock was great. There was a very good internet cafe within 20 yards, and just across the road there was a vibrant vegetable market. On the morning of 15 July there was great excitement there as the people of Uttoroa welcomed a delegation of Polynesians from Hawaii, celebrating the migation of the Polynesian people accross the seas. On one side of the square a lively band revved it up and on the other side there was a beautiful construction of a ship made from local plants and flowers. On top of the ship a young man in traditional dress blew his conch shell, to be answered by a different note from a conch shell blown from the band across the square. They sound like soft foghorns which is why they were used at sea to communicate.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mto5NosFY0U/U-QobBy6mLI/AAAAAAAABPY/ft3sKymWCZM/s1600/DSC_0210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mto5NosFY0U/U-QobBy6mLI/AAAAAAAABPY/ft3sKymWCZM/s1600/DSC_0210.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Floating the boat!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ca9vdNjrF_Q/U-QoaxJtmbI/AAAAAAAABPU/h0L40T9cMiY/s1600/DSC_0211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ca9vdNjrF_Q/U-QoaxJtmbI/AAAAAAAABPU/h0L40T9cMiY/s1600/DSC_0211.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boy with Conche</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
After a lively display of dancing and singing , in which everybody joined in at the end ; we repaired to the market where there was free tasting of local fruits and vegetables. The lady mayor of Uturoa, a friendly jolly woman wearing a traditional outfit, introduced us to everything on offer. What a great way to welcome people to your town!,<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dJZdf4D0XJc/U-Qpenr34RI/AAAAAAAABPo/HmMdIiokRoU/s1600/DSC_0234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dJZdf4D0XJc/U-Qpenr34RI/AAAAAAAABPo/HmMdIiokRoU/s1600/DSC_0234.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mayor and her sister....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1ocTbfa7Dug/U-QqEhJs85I/AAAAAAAABPw/56Lflck3WVM/s1600/DSC_0240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1ocTbfa7Dug/U-QqEhJs85I/AAAAAAAABPw/56Lflck3WVM/s1600/DSC_0240.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and other VIP's welcome Kika</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZFXFEcsQIpg/U-Qr-T_ioiI/AAAAAAAABQE/CLwE3ta508U/s1600/DSC_0390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZFXFEcsQIpg/U-Qr-T_ioiI/AAAAAAAABQE/CLwE3ta508U/s1600/DSC_0390.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Locals put on a bit of a show to celebrate the arrival of Kika's crew and those canoes from Hawii</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WY7C_KiETP4/U-WWAJdObQI/AAAAAAAABTA/hmNDYjR2bhA/s1600/DSC_0268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WY7C_KiETP4/U-WWAJdObQI/AAAAAAAABTA/hmNDYjR2bhA/s1600/DSC_0268.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DS_XrppA2L8/U-WdVrfkFVI/AAAAAAAABTw/o-HHuVOLR9I/s1600/DSC_0357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DS_XrppA2L8/U-WdVrfkFVI/AAAAAAAABTw/o-HHuVOLR9I/s1600/DSC_0357.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
While we were in Uturoa, we climbed the small mountain behind the town and were rewarded with a magnificent view of the two islands of Raiatea and Tahaa. You could see the buoyed passage between them. Bora Bora was framed by the late afternoon sun in the distance<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HZMTWsHOuQw/U-QufYmUrVI/AAAAAAAABQk/tD6BXqh1oDs/s1600/DSC_0434.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HZMTWsHOuQw/U-QufYmUrVI/AAAAAAAABQk/tD6BXqh1oDs/s1600/DSC_0434.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our view from Raiatea. Tahaa to the right and Bora Bora in the distance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Colin and Sally went diving together with Harry, Audrey and Dave from sailing vessel Elena, on the only diveable wreck of The French Polynesia Islands. I wimped out because of my shoulder and went snorkeling, but they got down to 29 metres and explored the whole wreck. Bowsprit, Anchor ,mast and an airpocket which you could surface in and breathe fairly foul air. Colin did well as a relatively novice diver to manage a wreck at 30 metres.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D6uYvHM3O1g/U-Qt8SdJAiI/AAAAAAAABQc/pldlIKF2Kzc/s1600/DSC_0474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D6uYvHM3O1g/U-Qt8SdJAiI/AAAAAAAABQc/pldlIKF2Kzc/s1600/DSC_0474.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sally and Audrey. Dive buddies and good friends</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We turned up in the evening for the local Heiva festival in the big tent.<br />
Our friend the Lady Mayor welcomed and thanked everyone in Tahitian and French without any notes and went on to explain this years theme, which was scenes from the island. The event was rather like a Welsh Eisteddfod, with dancing and singing from children's groups, a mums group some of whom looked like they needed the exercise. There was one lady rushing around the mums group doing up their grass skirts as they moved, to prevent them dropping to the floor as they wiggled their hips. The whole community were having a great time.<br />
<br />
On Friday 18 July we sailed 8 miles up the beautiful inside passage to Tahaa, the island on top of Raiatea. We anchored in Harapiti bay, and got a bit of a fright as we drifted back on the anchor which was in 20 metres of water; the back of the keel touched a large shelf of coral which seemed to come from nowhere. Fortunately there was no damage done and we re anchored nearer the centre of the bay.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t1aNtFGlTDA/U-QsyNsOb-I/AAAAAAAABQQ/B0IrH6jEjvI/s1600/DSC_0586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t1aNtFGlTDA/U-QsyNsOb-I/AAAAAAAABQQ/B0IrH6jEjvI/s1600/DSC_0586.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our view from Harapiti bay. Bora Bora in the setting sun.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The skipper was also bailed out by the first mate the next morning. While resplicing the end of the dinghy painter, I omited to attach it properly as I went below for some scissors. Result one dinghy floating slowly away. Colin immediately stripped off and dived in towing a large dinghy back, with the painter between his teeth- what a star!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RnAud5sHda0/U-Q4zLz8jmI/AAAAAAAABRM/LZLKragzs_w/s1600/DSC_0521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RnAud5sHda0/U-Q4zLz8jmI/AAAAAAAABRM/LZLKragzs_w/s1600/DSC_0521.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dingy with new outboard engine!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On Saturday 19th July we anchored off a place between two islands called the coral gardens. We dinghied ashore , took a path under the coconuts and then dropped into the water flowing between the two islands to drift snorkel down on the current. Just beneath the surface grew every kind of coral immagineable, from staghorn fronds to sea anemones with beautiful wavy clam shells with bright blue speckled interiors opening and closing. Numerous species of fish abounded with the smaller ones hiding between the fronds of the coral as one approached. Lurking in the shadows were Lion fish, moray eels and the odd octopus extending his tentacles towards the unwary. It was like a stroll through the most exotic garden imaginable with the vivid colours and variety of the fish quite stunning. Needless to say we did the drift 2 or three times .<br />
<br />
Overnight, the wind got up. We didn't drift but there were grinding noises from the anchor chain. All was revealed the next day when the anchor appeared stuck fast. We tried motoring off in different directions to no avail. We were about to enlist the help of our friends Dave and Kate from Elena who had diving gear when Colin managed to free dive 20 metres with his snorkel gear to get a good look at the anchor and chain. (He was the underwater diving champion at school, and his training regime as a very small boy was seeing how long he could hold his breath under the water in the bath, much to the alarm of his poor mother). The chain had ground a groove in a large boulder or bommie of coral . Colin reckoned that if we let out more slack and motored in a particular direction we could free it and lo and behold it came clear. Just shows the value of direct observation of what's going on beneath the surface. The chain looked a bit shiny where it had ground off the galvanising at twenty metres, but was otherwise OK.<br />
<br />
We cruised up the lagoon to look at a windy anchorage off the town of Patio at the North of the island, however after last nights experience we didn't fancy it, and sailed down in the late afternoon to protected Tapamau bay and a couple of large gin and tonics before dinner.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tY1bQi02wWI/U-Qz6ZjIqGI/AAAAAAAABQ0/0lrbU_gm3K0/s1600/DSC_0524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tY1bQi02wWI/U-Qz6ZjIqGI/AAAAAAAABQ0/0lrbU_gm3K0/s1600/DSC_0524.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way to Patio.... Tahaa church spire and a distant Bora Bora.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tY1bQi02wWI/U-Qz6ZjIqGI/AAAAAAAABQ0/0lrbU_gm3K0/s1600/DSC_0524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a></div>
On Monday 21 July, we had a lovely day sail over to Bora Bora. The wind was 15-20 knots on the beam and Kika eat up the 27 mile passage at a good 6 knots. We anchored off the Bora Bora Yacht Club next to a couple of super yachts in very deep water, 25 metres, (60 fathoms) letting out all our 50 metres of chain and another 15 metres of rope to give us enough scope. Bora Bora is a spectacular island centred around a massive peak that can be seen from 50 miles out to sea. As a result it is a favourite honeymoon destination with prices to match. The Bora Bora Yacht club was no exception , first of all telling us they were fully booked for dinner, and then that we could eat straight away. When we saw the super yacht prices we politely declined, in favour of marinated<br />
fried tuna on Kika.<br />
<br />
We found our crowd of scruffy peasants, the cruisers who never pay for anything parked round the corner in the next bay. The anchorage there was also an improvement. The Maikai yacht club was friendly and informal and it was good to catch up with all the gossip from our friends in other boats.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wJnnMUhMGi8/U-Wf-HtQaiI/AAAAAAAABT8/A9z4rSMzrtY/s1600/DSC_0612.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wJnnMUhMGi8/U-Wf-HtQaiI/AAAAAAAABT8/A9z4rSMzrtY/s1600/DSC_0612.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maikai Yacht Club</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Ashore we hitch hiked to the North of the Island and hiked over a mountain ridge to the other side of the island. At the top of the hill lived an artist who painted scenes in surrealist vivid colours. His claim to fame was selling a picture to Pierce Brosnan( James Bond) who looked very happy with his purchase.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ERUtbFaKNpw/U-Q2WId5LEI/AAAAAAAABRA/1GJhkZ5GuxA/s1600/DSC_0653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ERUtbFaKNpw/U-Q2WId5LEI/AAAAAAAABRA/1GJhkZ5GuxA/s1600/DSC_0653.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As purchased by James Bond!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-94COVmBJN6I/U-WhI-2djKI/AAAAAAAABUI/B7LJ1YKYWLM/s1600/DSC_0644.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-94COVmBJN6I/U-WhI-2djKI/AAAAAAAABUI/B7LJ1YKYWLM/s1600/DSC_0644.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The artist's front garden...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vMiBz2FWP-0/U-WiAG9tTRI/AAAAAAAABUU/WuDNnarx6tY/s1600/DSC_0656.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vMiBz2FWP-0/U-WiAG9tTRI/AAAAAAAABUU/WuDNnarx6tY/s1600/DSC_0656.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and back yard.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
We also asked directions off a lady called Marie who showed us round her large " garden" containing every fruit and vegetable you could think of. She had 3 young children, her husband worked away and this small farm looked a lot of work. Polynesians all love their gardens and work in a symbiotic way with the environment around them to make the whole island beautiful. The practical advantages of growing all your own food does not escape them either.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fuHFakimne8/U-Q6P8mkDeI/AAAAAAAABRY/kheXepZ4DhY/s1600/DSC_0665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fuHFakimne8/U-Q6P8mkDeI/AAAAAAAABRY/kheXepZ4DhY/s1600/DSC_0665.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marie's youngest checks out the strangers in her garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
On the other side of the island, lay a peninsula. You could walk along it to a large rock that looks like a figure of a man,looking out to sea. Legend had it that the mans wife got fed up with him not keeping a proper look out and ignoring her instructions. She got one of the gods to turn him to stone and put him on permanent look out. Just goes to show, -hell hath no fury like a Bora Bora woman scorned!<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i9WHykEfaeE/U-Q7joWaPqI/AAAAAAAABRk/tC43ZiM9TQw/s1600/DSC_0686.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i9WHykEfaeE/U-Q7joWaPqI/AAAAAAAABRk/tC43ZiM9TQw/s1600/DSC_0686.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Manta Ray reef with the stone man in the foreground</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TwjNLpi4Azo/U-Q79XK_wdI/AAAAAAAABRs/5OXiq1O2PVM/s1600/DSC_0712.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TwjNLpi4Azo/U-Q79XK_wdI/AAAAAAAABRs/5OXiq1O2PVM/s1600/DSC_0712.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The man who got stoned!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Further along the peninsula lie two well preserved large American Naval guns protecting the bay. The Americans had a major presence in Bora Bora during the pacific war against the Japanese. There were 5000 men stationed on the island. In the concrete base to the gun a marine had inscribed USA May 1942 in the wet concrete.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SuuNJto1NuM/U-Q808wsk6I/AAAAAAAABR4/qPdfeGv6aSo/s1600/DSC_0711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SuuNJto1NuM/U-Q808wsk6I/AAAAAAAABR4/qPdfeGv6aSo/s1600/DSC_0711.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">American Guns</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8jSYaLb6s40/U-Q9ORdi26I/AAAAAAAABSA/ZLhsfwid8rE/s1600/DSC_0720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8jSYaLb6s40/U-Q9ORdi26I/AAAAAAAABSA/ZLhsfwid8rE/s1600/DSC_0720.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Any Japs out there?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dgHykrkZkCg/U-Q9PSUVA1I/AAAAAAAABSI/xGq7UK4PQ0w/s1600/DSC_0721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dgHykrkZkCg/U-Q9PSUVA1I/AAAAAAAABSI/xGq7UK4PQ0w/s1600/DSC_0721.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two rusty relics</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rMPkR_0YKM0/U-Q9ylnrcyI/AAAAAAAABSQ/hVYl3o0GnAA/s1600/DSC_0725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rMPkR_0YKM0/U-Q9ylnrcyI/AAAAAAAABSQ/hVYl3o0GnAA/s1600/DSC_0725.JPG" height="133" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The peninsula was also the place where we went snorkelling the next day at 9am to see the giant manta rays cruising up the reef. They were enormous slowly flapping their two wings to glide along the reef. Quite extraordinary.<br />
<br />
To get around Bora Bora we hitch hiked which was cheaper and more fun than using a taxi. We met some lovely people who told us how things were on the island. We had noticed a number of graves in peoples gardens. Apparently this is a result of a lack of a municipal cemetery. OK to have your ancestor with you when you live there but a bit of a problem if you want to sell the place. The mayor is under pressure to sort something out.<br />
<br />
We went for our final check out of French Polynesia at the Gendarmerie. Watered, provisioned and refuelled in the afternoon. Had a splendid dinner at the Makai yacht club to celebrate one year since our departure from North Wales. Checked the wind GRIB files for the next 6 days and set off for the Cook Islands 600 miles in a South East direction on the morning of 26 july.<br />
<br />
Our enduring impressions of the people of French Polynesia was of an intrinsically happy people, who are busy restoring their language and cultural traditions to their rightful place. They are totally non racist and seem to have converted a lot of French people to their way of thinking that you only need to work when necessary, and there's no point accumulating wealth if you have enough to eat. The intermarriage rate with the French is quite high.<br />
<br />
The French State now is a relatively benign presence and maintains the islanders happy existence with large injections of cash - long may it continue doing so.<br />
<br />
We had intended to call at the Atoll Island of Maupihaa, 135 nautical miles due west of Bora Bora. It is a haven for bird and wildlife. We discovered why the birds have it to themselves the next morning when in a Northerly swell there appeared to be breakers over the approach to the narrow pass. We aborted the approach at the last minute. Poor Colin's shoulder got in the way of a crash jibe, but he's recovered bravely. We spoke to our friend Harry on Malua later. Apparently the Navionics charts for the pass are 300 metres out- a vital difference in a narrow approach. Quite surprising when the electronic charts for the rest of French Polynesia were so accurate.<br />
<br />
We then managed to receive an updated GRIB file through the Single Side Band Radio. This is a remarkable machine. Using a computer and modem, we can send a request for weather data for a specified area for the next three days. The request goes to the server run by a non for profit company called sailmail. 10 minutes later we can recontact the nearest radio station and download automatically stored traffic consisting of a digitally compressed graphical picture of the weather with arrows showing wind speeds together with pressure and rainfall. Of course you can only get it when radio propagation is good and you often have to try a few frequencies before you make contact. We can also send and receive short e mails to stay in touch with family. My friend Clive Sparkes installed our system . Even the gismo kid himself was impressed by its ability to make use of old fashioned radiowaves, bounced off the ionosphere , often recievable a couple of thousand miles away. Its much cheaper than a satellite system and the radio has the advantage that you can talk to other yachts on passage on a morning or evening net where you can share information. It's a great boon for single handers to be able to talk over problems.<br />
<br />
Anyway the GRIB we received showed very strong winds in the area of Rarotonga , just as we were about to arrive. We spent the next night stooging about, undecided whether to divert to Tonga as most boats were doing, or whether to go to Rarotoga to pick up our mates Richard and Nigel. We decided the next morning when the GRIB files didn't look so bad with a maximum of 30 knot winds in the area. It was great to confirm our decision with our friend Harry from Malua on the radio. Harry is pretty experienced and reckoned we would be OK.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vBSRF0DNgFI/U-WjfA4f9GI/AAAAAAAABUg/4naFJ-DvJ2E/s1600/DSC_0741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vBSRF0DNgFI/U-WjfA4f9GI/AAAAAAAABUg/4naFJ-DvJ2E/s1600/DSC_0741.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harry in Bora Bora before his departure to Tonga.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As if to confirm our decision, we sailed South in a gentle Northerly breeze on 27 July. We hoisted our newly repaired spinnaker and made 5 knots in 11 knots of wind in lovely sunshine. That evening we arrived at the edge of the low pressure trough and it poured with rain. After dinner the stove collapsed due to a gimbal pin that had fractured. I was not looking forwards to heavy winds with no ability to cook. After ruminating on it overnight the sea was calm in the morning so at 6am I took the stove apart and found a screw top bolt and nuts that would serve as a replacement. Colin and I heaved the stove back into position tightened up the new gimbal and it worked OK. Thank goodness!<br />
<br />
On 28 July we made good progress South in a 13 knot South Easterly breeze, we prepared the No2 jib on the inner forestay for the heavy weather we knew was coming. We were quite surprised to loose the wind overnight and have to motor. The calm conditions continued into the morning and then around midday on 29 July, we were hit by an express train in the form of a South Easterly gale. Colin and I struggled onto the foredeck and placed the third reef in the main. It was the worst conditions either of us have been in. The only redeeming feature was that it was warm. We managed to steer downwind a bit got the Aries wind vane working , completely furled the foresail and managed to sail on a beam reach slightly to the east of our destination 185 miles away. As I write this we are now in a full gale gusting over 40 knots of wind with big seas and some breakers hitting the boat. The wind and waves are very noisy. So much for the Grib files. On the positive side we have got a lot of sea room and we are travelling in vaguely the right direction, although the boats head swings through a 60 degree arc. Kika is relatively dry and warm inside , but in these conditions you come to realise just how precarious everything is and I am very thankful we are in a strong boat.<br />
<br />
After 18 hours the gale moderated to 25 knots of wind so we could effect damage repair. The stopper knot on the third reef had pulled through preventing the sail from setting right. The mainsail was torn and the lazyjack and flag lines on the starboard side had snapped. One of the lines on the Aries wind vane was down to its inner core. The Aries however had worked brilliantly in very difficult conditions as hand steering would have been exhausting.We cleared away the debris refixed the third reef , hoisted the no2 jib on the inner forestay and got the boat sailing properly again on a close reach at 6 knots with three reefs in the main. Considering the severity of the storm we felt we had got off quite lightly. An event like last night stops you worrying about trivia! Colin and I both admitted to each other afterwards that we were worried men however Sally was never in any doubt that we would be OK!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4giQFLYb2dg/U-Wk-gjKhpI/AAAAAAAABUs/XZ_2vYRuuYY/s1600/DSC_0768.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4giQFLYb2dg/U-Wk-gjKhpI/AAAAAAAABUs/XZ_2vYRuuYY/s1600/DSC_0768.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Its ripped guv...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VdTlgMdDOfI/U-kz-supVbI/AAAAAAAABVg/CpSLfUkDdAw/s1600/DSC_0051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VdTlgMdDOfI/U-kz-supVbI/AAAAAAAABVg/CpSLfUkDdAw/s1600/DSC_0051.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...but I know the man for the job!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Interestingly, we talked to Harry on Malua on the SSB. He is going to Tonga direct but got similar weather and a badly torn mainsail to add to his problems of a malfunctioning engine. He is single handing as his crew Audrey dramatically jumped ship on the day of departure. This involved our Sally who demonstrated traditional British diplomatic skills in dealing with an American and a South African managing to convince Audrey to sign discharge papers down at the gendarmerie . Single handing is fine when things are going well. However when you hit snags, there is no one to talk it over with which is tough and requires a lot of self reliance. Harry seems to be coping well, and made some bread when he was engineless with no wind.<br />
On Wednesday 30 the wind moderated further, the sun made an appearance and we had bedding all over the cockpit to dry out a bit. We should arrive at Rarotonga tomorrow afternoon July 31.<br />
<br />
Thursday morning dawned, Colin unreefed the main and we were greeted by the glorious site of Raratoga island and its many peaks wreathed in sunshine and a large condensation cloud<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bfJCBGaJg2I/U-RBh5PazTI/AAAAAAAABSo/YYL_rFm5pNI/s1600/DSC_0771.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bfJCBGaJg2I/U-RBh5PazTI/AAAAAAAABSo/YYL_rFm5pNI/s1600/DSC_0771.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Land ahoy !</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4tGiwUI2ug/U-RB2IKnadI/AAAAAAAABSw/w9t58GKIiRo/s1600/DSC_0756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4tGiwUI2ug/U-RB2IKnadI/AAAAAAAABSw/w9t58GKIiRo/s1600/DSC_0756.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking the theory after heavy example of the real thing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
We headed in at a lickety spit 6.5 knots with an ETA of 2 pm.<br />
Just as we approached Avatiu Harbour in Rarotonga , another weather system came in. We backed into a berth between a ship and two contiki like Catamarans. It was tricky. One line broke under the strain. We required multiple shore lines and 50 metres of anchor chain motored out in the dinghy by Colin and Sally to hold kika in position off the dock while the wind howled and torrential rain came in.<br />
We retired into the warmth of the cabin only to discover the loo was blocked. Colin and I had 2 goes at clearing it. The main problem was a build up of uric acid scale on the outlet valve. We eventually got it sorted and Sally had the full luxury cruising experience of unusual odours and the noise of two men cussing and swearing in the heads, while she tried to type up my short story. She gets an award for extreme typing first in a Force 9 Gale and then in a sewage depot.<br />
My shoulder ached badly, but the main thing was that we were warm and safe and out of 35 knot winds out at sea, and lying in the friendly Cook Islands.<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dz0KcCTtnrU/U-Q-7KJeqxI/AAAAAAAABSc/v7SKmIrWX0Y/s1600/DSC_0776.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dz0KcCTtnrU/U-Q-7KJeqxI/AAAAAAAABSc/v7SKmIrWX0Y/s1600/DSC_0776.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kika, shaken but not stirred. Grateful to be at rest in Avatui Harbour, Rarotonga.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02288143251258239365noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-1085427372733869462014-08-11T14:27:00.000-07:002014-08-11T14:27:18.086-07:00Leeward Islands to the Cook Islands <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
On 14 July, we had a lovely evening sail under Genoa up the inside passage of the Raiatea reef, to Uturoa Town dock, where we were berthed between Beverley an Australian lady , and Harry a colourful South African now Australian with his crew Audrey on Malua. They all came over to dinner on Kika a subsequent evening and Beverly brought home made Sushi for starters .<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HnBp3uNDb8c/U-Wa2vewxTI/AAAAAAAABTk/vzquqZT3_0E/s1600/DSC_0465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HnBp3uNDb8c/U-Wa2vewxTI/AAAAAAAABTk/vzquqZT3_0E/s1600/DSC_0465.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beverly and the Sushi Starters (a good name for a pop group!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cAFoHv_WYOA/U-WZ55cx_wI/AAAAAAAABTY/5hNoXeLX2cs/s1600/DSC_0168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cAFoHv_WYOA/U-WZ55cx_wI/AAAAAAAABTY/5hNoXeLX2cs/s1600/DSC_0168.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The town quay, Uturoa.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span id="goog_59401803"></span><span id="goog_59401804"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8a_7l3YDVow/U-Qkk-6XrPI/AAAAAAAABO8/95LLPeystCo/s1600/DSC_0680.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8a_7l3YDVow/U-Qkk-6XrPI/AAAAAAAABO8/95LLPeystCo/s1600/DSC_0680.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down from the mountains to the lagoon and the crashing waves over the reef.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The reefs are formed outside the islands by the deposition of coral. Fresh water run off from the mountains then carves out deep channels, between the outside of the reef and the land. The water only exits at a few places known as passes which accounts for the constant outflow of water through the passes. Interestingly French Polynesia sits between two tidal systems with very little moon tide as a result. Sun tide then comes into play, so the best time to approach a pass is at midday when tidal flow will be less and the sun directly overhead will show up those treacherous patches of coral. Dark blue means deep water, light blue shallower, and white very shallow where the sun reflects directly off the white calcified coral.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tY1bQi02wWI/U-Qz6ZjIqGI/AAAAAAAABQ0/0lrbU_gm3K0/s1600/DSC_0524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tY1bQi02wWI/U-Qz6ZjIqGI/AAAAAAAABQ0/0lrbU_gm3K0/s1600/DSC_0524.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Church spire on Tahaa. Bora Bora in the distance.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The channels inside the reefs have been well buoyed by the French, and make beautiful calm sailing. There is no swell as all the waves break on the outside reef , with a constant roar so you can cruise around in lovely sunshine without even having your Gin and Tonic shaken. The shallow areas of live coral are of course a haven for every form of marine life imaginable which makes these coral islands a Mecca for snorkelling and diving.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s8iJWmkN3to/U-ktrFaBkHI/AAAAAAAABU8/NFyiBmaZKKE/s1600/G0020019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s8iJWmkN3to/U-ktrFaBkHI/AAAAAAAABU8/NFyiBmaZKKE/s1600/G0020019.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Difficult to see ahead at times!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pt1Iwqi-XKY/U-ktvBlFA8I/AAAAAAAABVE/20UIGR7QpWM/s1600/GOPR0061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pt1Iwqi-XKY/U-ktvBlFA8I/AAAAAAAABVE/20UIGR7QpWM/s1600/GOPR0061.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
We dined out at a small creperie run by two French speaking Belgians Patrick and his wife Patrice . Their little van was parked in a romantic spot on the waters edge. Patrick had put fairy lighting under the awning and you could sit at tables watching the sun go down , listening to the gentle sound of a French chantreuse, while eating a delicious crepe, washed down with an ice cream. Only the French really understand how to create ambience from very little.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wqZuWy8eFFw/U-QnfrXnHfI/AAAAAAAABPI/PISn2wuTQO4/s1600/DSC_0176.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wqZuWy8eFFw/U-QnfrXnHfI/AAAAAAAABPI/PISn2wuTQO4/s1600/DSC_0176.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The biggest decision of the day...coconut? or is it mango ice cream?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Staying at the town dock was great. There was a very good internet cafe within 20 yards, and just across the road there was a vibrant vegetable market. On the morning of 15 July there was great excitement there as the people of Uttoroa welcomed a delegation of Polynesians from Hawaii, celebrating the migation of the Polynesian people accross the seas. On one side of the square a lively band revved it up and on the other side there was a beautiful construction of a ship made from local plants and flowers. On top of the ship a young man in traditional dress blew his conch shell, to be answered by a different note from a conch shell blown from the band across the square. They sound like soft foghorns which is why they were used at sea to communicate.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mto5NosFY0U/U-QobBy6mLI/AAAAAAAABPY/ft3sKymWCZM/s1600/DSC_0210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mto5NosFY0U/U-QobBy6mLI/AAAAAAAABPY/ft3sKymWCZM/s1600/DSC_0210.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Floating the boat!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ca9vdNjrF_Q/U-QoaxJtmbI/AAAAAAAABPU/h0L40T9cMiY/s1600/DSC_0211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ca9vdNjrF_Q/U-QoaxJtmbI/AAAAAAAABPU/h0L40T9cMiY/s1600/DSC_0211.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boy with Conche</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
After a lively display of dancing and singing , in which everybody joined in at the end ; we repaired to the market where there was free tasting of local fruits and vegetables. The lady mayor of Uturoa, a friendly jolly woman wearing a traditional outfit, introduced us to everything on offer. What a great way to welcome people to your town!,<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dJZdf4D0XJc/U-Qpenr34RI/AAAAAAAABPo/HmMdIiokRoU/s1600/DSC_0234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dJZdf4D0XJc/U-Qpenr34RI/AAAAAAAABPo/HmMdIiokRoU/s1600/DSC_0234.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mayor and her sister....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1ocTbfa7Dug/U-QqEhJs85I/AAAAAAAABPw/56Lflck3WVM/s1600/DSC_0240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1ocTbfa7Dug/U-QqEhJs85I/AAAAAAAABPw/56Lflck3WVM/s1600/DSC_0240.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and other VIP's welcome Kika</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZFXFEcsQIpg/U-Qr-T_ioiI/AAAAAAAABQE/CLwE3ta508U/s1600/DSC_0390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZFXFEcsQIpg/U-Qr-T_ioiI/AAAAAAAABQE/CLwE3ta508U/s1600/DSC_0390.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Locals put on a bit of a show to celebrate the arrival of Kika's crew and those canoes from Hawii</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WY7C_KiETP4/U-WWAJdObQI/AAAAAAAABTA/hmNDYjR2bhA/s1600/DSC_0268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WY7C_KiETP4/U-WWAJdObQI/AAAAAAAABTA/hmNDYjR2bhA/s1600/DSC_0268.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DS_XrppA2L8/U-WdVrfkFVI/AAAAAAAABTw/o-HHuVOLR9I/s1600/DSC_0357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DS_XrppA2L8/U-WdVrfkFVI/AAAAAAAABTw/o-HHuVOLR9I/s1600/DSC_0357.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
While we were in Uturoa, we climbed the small mountain behind the town and were rewarded with a magnificent view of the two islands of Raiatea and Tahaa. You could see the buoyed passage between them. Bora Bora was framed by the late afternoon sun in the distance<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HZMTWsHOuQw/U-QufYmUrVI/AAAAAAAABQk/tD6BXqh1oDs/s1600/DSC_0434.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HZMTWsHOuQw/U-QufYmUrVI/AAAAAAAABQk/tD6BXqh1oDs/s1600/DSC_0434.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our view from Raiatea. Tahaa to the right and Bora Bora in the distance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Colin and Sally went diving together with Harry, Audrey and Dave from sailing vessel Elena, on the only diveable wreck of The French Polynesia Islands. I wimped out because of my shoulder and went snorkeling, but they got down to 29 metres and explored the whole wreck. Bowsprit, Anchor ,mast and an airpocket which you could surface in and breathe fairly foul air. Colin did well as a relatively novice diver to manage a wreck at 30 metres.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D6uYvHM3O1g/U-Qt8SdJAiI/AAAAAAAABQc/pldlIKF2Kzc/s1600/DSC_0474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D6uYvHM3O1g/U-Qt8SdJAiI/AAAAAAAABQc/pldlIKF2Kzc/s1600/DSC_0474.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sally and Audrey. Dive buddies and good friends</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We turned up in the evening for the local Heiva festival in the big tent.<br />
Our friend the Lady Mayor welcomed and thanked everyone in Tahitian and French without any notes and went on to explain this years theme, which was scenes from the island. The event was rather like a Welsh Eisteddfod, with dancing and singing from children's groups, a mums group some of whom looked like they needed the exercise. There was one lady rushing around the mums group doing up their grass skirts as they moved, to prevent them dropping to the floor as they wiggled their hips. The whole community were having a great time.<br />
<br />
On Friday 18 July we sailed 8 miles up the beautiful inside passage to Tahaa, the island on top of Raiatea. We anchored in Harapiti bay, and got a bit of a fright as we drifted back on the anchor which was in 20 metres of water; the back of the keel touched a large shelf of coral which seemed to come from nowhere. Fortunately there was no damage done and we re anchored nearer the centre of the bay.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t1aNtFGlTDA/U-QsyNsOb-I/AAAAAAAABQQ/B0IrH6jEjvI/s1600/DSC_0586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t1aNtFGlTDA/U-QsyNsOb-I/AAAAAAAABQQ/B0IrH6jEjvI/s1600/DSC_0586.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our view from Harapiti bay. Bora Bora in the setting sun.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The skipper was also bailed out by the first mate the next morning. While resplicing the end of the dinghy painter, I omited to attach it properly as I went below for some scissors. Result one dinghy floating slowly away. Colin immediately stripped off and dived in towing a large dinghy back, with the painter between his teeth- what a star!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RnAud5sHda0/U-Q4zLz8jmI/AAAAAAAABRM/LZLKragzs_w/s1600/DSC_0521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RnAud5sHda0/U-Q4zLz8jmI/AAAAAAAABRM/LZLKragzs_w/s1600/DSC_0521.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dingy with new outboard engine!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On Saturday 19th July we anchored off a place between two islands called the coral gardens. We dinghied ashore , took a path under the coconuts and then dropped into the water flowing between the two islands to drift snorkel down on the current. Just beneath the surface grew every kind of coral immagineable, from staghorn fronds to sea anemones with beautiful wavy clam shells with bright blue speckled interiors opening and closing. Numerous species of fish abounded with the smaller ones hiding between the fronds of the coral as one approached. Lurking in the shadows were Lion fish, moray eels and the odd octopus extending his tentacles towards the unwary. It was like a stroll through the most exotic garden imaginable with the vivid colours and variety of the fish quite stunning. Needless to say we did the drift 2 or three times .<br />
<br />
Overnight, the wind got up. We didn't drift but there were grinding noises from the anchor chain. All was revealed the next day when the anchor appeared stuck fast. We tried motoring off in different directions to no avail. We were about to enlist the help of our friends Dave and Kate from Elena who had diving gear when Colin managed to free dive 20 metres with his snorkel gear to get a good look at the anchor and chain. (He was the underwater diving champion at school, and his training regime as a very small boy was seeing how long he could hold his breath under the water in the bath, much to the alarm of his poor mother). The chain had ground a groove in a large boulder or bommie of coral . Colin reckoned that if we let out more slack and motored in a particular direction we could free it and lo and behold it came clear. Just shows the value of direct observation of what's going on beneath the surface. The chain looked a bit shiny where it had ground off the galvanising at twenty metres, but was otherwise OK.<br />
<br />
We cruised up the lagoon to look at a windy anchorage off the town of Patio at the North of the island, however after last nights experience we didn't fancy it, and sailed down in the late afternoon to protected Tapamau bay and a couple of large gin and tonics before dinner.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tY1bQi02wWI/U-Qz6ZjIqGI/AAAAAAAABQ0/0lrbU_gm3K0/s1600/DSC_0524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tY1bQi02wWI/U-Qz6ZjIqGI/AAAAAAAABQ0/0lrbU_gm3K0/s1600/DSC_0524.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way to Patio.... Tahaa church spire and a distant Bora Bora.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tY1bQi02wWI/U-Qz6ZjIqGI/AAAAAAAABQ0/0lrbU_gm3K0/s1600/DSC_0524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a></div>
On Monday 21 July, we had a lovely day sail over to Bora Bora. The wind was 15-20 knots on the beam and Kika eat up the 27 mile passage at a good 6 knots. We anchored off the Bora Bora Yacht Club next to a couple of super yachts in very deep water, 25 metres, (60 fathoms) letting out all our 50 metres of chain and another 15 metres of rope to give us enough scope. Bora Bora is a spectacular island centred around a massive peak that can be seen from 50 miles out to sea. As a result it is a favourite honeymoon destination with prices to match. The Bora Bora Yacht club was no exception , first of all telling us they were fully booked for dinner, and then that we could eat straight away. When we saw the super yacht prices we politely declined, in favour of marinated<br />
fried tuna on Kika.<br />
<br />
We found our crowd of scruffy peasants, the cruisers who never pay for anything parked round the corner in the next bay. The anchorage there was also an improvement. The Maikai yacht club was friendly and informal and it was good to catch up with all the gossip from our friends in other boats.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wJnnMUhMGi8/U-Wf-HtQaiI/AAAAAAAABT8/A9z4rSMzrtY/s1600/DSC_0612.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wJnnMUhMGi8/U-Wf-HtQaiI/AAAAAAAABT8/A9z4rSMzrtY/s1600/DSC_0612.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maikai Yacht Club</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Ashore we hitch hiked to the North of the Island and hiked over a mountain ridge to the other side of the island. At the top of the hill lived an artist who painted scenes in surrealist vivid colours. His claim to fame was selling a picture to Pierce Brosnan( James Bond) who looked very happy with his purchase.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ERUtbFaKNpw/U-Q2WId5LEI/AAAAAAAABRA/1GJhkZ5GuxA/s1600/DSC_0653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ERUtbFaKNpw/U-Q2WId5LEI/AAAAAAAABRA/1GJhkZ5GuxA/s1600/DSC_0653.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As purchased by James Bond!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-94COVmBJN6I/U-WhI-2djKI/AAAAAAAABUI/B7LJ1YKYWLM/s1600/DSC_0644.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-94COVmBJN6I/U-WhI-2djKI/AAAAAAAABUI/B7LJ1YKYWLM/s1600/DSC_0644.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The artist's front garden...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vMiBz2FWP-0/U-WiAG9tTRI/AAAAAAAABUU/WuDNnarx6tY/s1600/DSC_0656.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vMiBz2FWP-0/U-WiAG9tTRI/AAAAAAAABUU/WuDNnarx6tY/s1600/DSC_0656.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and back yard.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
We also asked directions off a lady called Marie who showed us round her large " garden" containing every fruit and vegetable you could think of. She had 3 young children, her husband worked away and this small farm looked a lot of work. Polynesians all love their gardens and work in a symbiotic way with the environment around them to make the whole island beautiful. The practical advantages of growing all your own food does not escape them either.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fuHFakimne8/U-Q6P8mkDeI/AAAAAAAABRY/kheXepZ4DhY/s1600/DSC_0665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fuHFakimne8/U-Q6P8mkDeI/AAAAAAAABRY/kheXepZ4DhY/s1600/DSC_0665.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marie's youngest checks out the strangers in her garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
On the other side of the island, lay a peninsula. You could walk along it to a large rock that looks like a figure of a man,looking out to sea. Legend had it that the mans wife got fed up with him not keeping a proper look out and ignoring her instructions. She got one of the gods to turn him to stone and put him on permanent look out. Just goes to show, -hell hath no fury like a Bora Bora woman scorned!<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i9WHykEfaeE/U-Q7joWaPqI/AAAAAAAABRk/tC43ZiM9TQw/s1600/DSC_0686.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i9WHykEfaeE/U-Q7joWaPqI/AAAAAAAABRk/tC43ZiM9TQw/s1600/DSC_0686.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Manta Ray reef with the stone man in the foreground</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TwjNLpi4Azo/U-Q79XK_wdI/AAAAAAAABRs/5OXiq1O2PVM/s1600/DSC_0712.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TwjNLpi4Azo/U-Q79XK_wdI/AAAAAAAABRs/5OXiq1O2PVM/s1600/DSC_0712.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The man who got stoned!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Further along the peninsula lie two well preserved large American Naval guns protecting the bay. The Americans had a major presence in Bora Bora during the pacific war against the Japanese. There were 5000 men stationed on the island. In the concrete base to the gun a marine had inscribed USA May 1942 in the wet concrete.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SuuNJto1NuM/U-Q808wsk6I/AAAAAAAABR4/qPdfeGv6aSo/s1600/DSC_0711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SuuNJto1NuM/U-Q808wsk6I/AAAAAAAABR4/qPdfeGv6aSo/s1600/DSC_0711.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">American Guns</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8jSYaLb6s40/U-Q9ORdi26I/AAAAAAAABSA/ZLhsfwid8rE/s1600/DSC_0720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8jSYaLb6s40/U-Q9ORdi26I/AAAAAAAABSA/ZLhsfwid8rE/s1600/DSC_0720.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Any Japs out there?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dgHykrkZkCg/U-Q9PSUVA1I/AAAAAAAABSI/xGq7UK4PQ0w/s1600/DSC_0721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dgHykrkZkCg/U-Q9PSUVA1I/AAAAAAAABSI/xGq7UK4PQ0w/s1600/DSC_0721.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two rusty relics</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rMPkR_0YKM0/U-Q9ylnrcyI/AAAAAAAABSQ/hVYl3o0GnAA/s1600/DSC_0725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rMPkR_0YKM0/U-Q9ylnrcyI/AAAAAAAABSQ/hVYl3o0GnAA/s1600/DSC_0725.JPG" height="133" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The peninsula was also the place where we went snorkelling the next day at 9am to see the giant manta rays cruising up the reef. They were enormous slowly flapping their two wings to glide along the reef. Quite extraordinary.<br />
<br />
To get around Bora Bora we hitch hiked which was cheaper and more fun than using a taxi. We met some lovely people who told us how things were on the island. We had noticed a number of graves in peoples gardens. Apparently this is a result of a lack of a municipal cemetery. OK to have your ancestor with you when you live there but a bit of a problem if you want to sell the place. The mayor is under pressure to sort something out.<br />
<br />
We went for our final check out of French Polynesia at the Gendarmerie. Watered, provisioned and refuelled in the afternoon. Had a splendid dinner at the Makai yacht club to celebrate one year since our departure from North Wales. Checked the wind GRIB files for the next 6 days and set off for the Cook Islands 600 miles in a South East direction on the morning of 26 july.<br />
<br />
Our enduring impressions of the people of French Polynesia was of an intrinsically happy people, who are busy restoring their language and cultural traditions to their rightful place. They are totally non racist and seem to have converted a lot of French people to their way of thinking that you only need to work when necessary, and there's no point accumulating wealth if you have enough to eat. The intermarriage rate with the French is quite high.<br />
<br />
The French State now is a relatively benign presence and maintains the islanders happy existence with large injections of cash - long may it continue doing so.<br />
<br />
We had intended to call at the Atoll Island of Maupihaa, 135 nautical miles due west of Bora Bora. It is a haven for bird and wildlife. We discovered why the birds have it to themselves the next morning when in a Northerly swell there appeared to be breakers over the approach to the narrow pass. We aborted the approach at the last minute. Poor Colin's shoulder got in the way of a crash jibe, but he's recovered bravely. We spoke to our friend Harry on Malua later. Apparently the Navionics charts for the pass are 300 metres out- a vital difference in a narrow approach. Quite surprising when the electronic charts for the rest of French Polynesia were so accurate.<br />
<br />
We then managed to receive an updated GRIB file through the Single Side Band Radio. This is a remarkable machine. Using a computer and modem, we can send a request for weather data for a specified area for the next three days. The request goes to the server run by a non for profit company called sailmail. 10 minutes later we can recontact the nearest radio station and download automatically stored traffic consisting of a digitally compressed graphical picture of the weather with arrows showing wind speeds together with pressure and rainfall. Of course you can only get it when radio propagation is good and you often have to try a few frequencies before you make contact. We can also send and receive short e mails to stay in touch with family. My friend Clive Sparkes installed our system . Even the gismo kid himself was impressed by its ability to make use of old fashioned radiowaves, bounced off the ionosphere , often recievable a couple of thousand miles away. Its much cheaper than a satellite system and the radio has the advantage that you can talk to other yachts on passage on a morning or evening net where you can share information. It's a great boon for single handers to be able to talk over problems.<br />
<br />
Anyway the GRIB we received showed very strong winds in the area of Rarotonga , just as we were about to arrive. We spent the next night stooging about, undecided whether to divert to Tonga as most boats were doing, or whether to go to Rarotoga to pick up our mates Richard and Nigel. We decided the next morning when the GRIB files didn't look so bad with a maximum of 30 knot winds in the area. It was great to confirm our decision with our friend Harry from Malua on the radio. Harry is pretty experienced and reckoned we would be OK.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vBSRF0DNgFI/U-WjfA4f9GI/AAAAAAAABUg/4naFJ-DvJ2E/s1600/DSC_0741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vBSRF0DNgFI/U-WjfA4f9GI/AAAAAAAABUg/4naFJ-DvJ2E/s1600/DSC_0741.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harry in Bora Bora before his departure to Tonga.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As if to confirm our decision, we sailed South in a gentle Northerly breeze on 27 July. We hoisted our newly repaired spinnaker and made 5 knots in 11 knots of wind in lovely sunshine. That evening we arrived at the edge of the low pressure trough and it poured with rain. After dinner the stove collapsed due to a gimbal pin that had fractured. I was not looking forwards to heavy winds with no ability to cook. After ruminating on it overnight the sea was calm in the morning so at 6am I took the stove apart and found a screw top bolt and nuts that would serve as a replacement. Colin and I heaved the stove back into position tightened up the new gimbal and it worked OK. Thank goodness!<br />
<br />
On 28 July we made good progress South in a 13 knot South Easterly breeze, we prepared the No2 jib on the inner forestay for the heavy weather we knew was coming. We were quite surprised to loose the wind overnight and have to motor. The calm conditions continued into the morning and then around midday on 29 July, we were hit by an express train in the form of a South Easterly gale. Colin and I struggled onto the foredeck and placed the third reef in the main. It was the worst conditions either of us have been in. The only redeeming feature was that it was warm. We managed to steer downwind a bit got the Aries wind vane working , completely furled the foresail and managed to sail on a beam reach slightly to the east of our destination 185 miles away. As I write this we are now in a full gale gusting over 40 knots of wind with big seas and some breakers hitting the boat. The wind and waves are very noisy. So much for the Grib files. On the positive side we have got a lot of sea room and we are travelling in vaguely the right direction, although the boats head swings through a 60 degree arc. Kika is relatively dry and warm inside , but in these conditions you come to realise just how precarious everything is and I am very thankful we are in a strong boat.<br />
<br />
After 18 hours the gale moderated to 25 knots of wind so we could effect damage repair. The stopper knot on the third reef had pulled through preventing the sail from setting right. The mainsail was torn and the lazyjack and flag lines on the starboard side had snapped. One of the lines on the Aries wind vane was down to its inner core. The Aries however had worked brilliantly in very difficult conditions as hand steering would have been exhausting.We cleared away the debris refixed the third reef , hoisted the no2 jib on the inner forestay and got the boat sailing properly again on a close reach at 6 knots with three reefs in the main. Considering the severity of the storm we felt we had got off quite lightly. An event like last night stops you worrying about trivia! Colin and I both admitted to each other afterwards that we were worried men however Sally was never in any doubt that we would be OK!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4giQFLYb2dg/U-Wk-gjKhpI/AAAAAAAABUs/XZ_2vYRuuYY/s1600/DSC_0768.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4giQFLYb2dg/U-Wk-gjKhpI/AAAAAAAABUs/XZ_2vYRuuYY/s1600/DSC_0768.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Its ripped guv...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VdTlgMdDOfI/U-kz-supVbI/AAAAAAAABVg/CpSLfUkDdAw/s1600/DSC_0051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VdTlgMdDOfI/U-kz-supVbI/AAAAAAAABVg/CpSLfUkDdAw/s1600/DSC_0051.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...but I know the man for the job!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Interestingly, we talked to Harry on Malua on the SSB. He is going to Tonga direct but got similar weather and a badly torn mainsail to add to his problems of a malfunctioning engine. He is single handing as his crew Audrey dramatically jumped ship on the day of departure. This involved our Sally who demonstrated traditional British diplomatic skills in dealing with an American and a South African managing to convince Audrey to sign discharge papers down at the gendarmerie . Single handing is fine when things are going well. However when you hit snags, there is no one to talk it over with which is tough and requires a lot of self reliance. Harry seems to be coping well, and made some bread when he was engineless with no wind.<br />
On Wednesday 30 the wind moderated further, the sun made an appearance and we had bedding all over the cockpit to dry out a bit. We should arrive at Rarotonga tomorrow afternoon July 31.<br />
<br />
Thursday morning dawned, Colin unreefed the main and we were greeted by the glorious site of Raratoga island and its many peaks wreathed in sunshine and a large condensation cloud<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bfJCBGaJg2I/U-RBh5PazTI/AAAAAAAABSo/YYL_rFm5pNI/s1600/DSC_0771.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bfJCBGaJg2I/U-RBh5PazTI/AAAAAAAABSo/YYL_rFm5pNI/s1600/DSC_0771.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Land ahoy !</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4tGiwUI2ug/U-RB2IKnadI/AAAAAAAABSw/w9t58GKIiRo/s1600/DSC_0756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4tGiwUI2ug/U-RB2IKnadI/AAAAAAAABSw/w9t58GKIiRo/s1600/DSC_0756.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking the theory after heavy example of the real thing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
We headed in at a lickety spit 6.5 knots with an ETA of 2 pm.<br />
Just as we approached Avatiu Harbour in Rarotonga , another weather system came in. We backed into a berth between a ship and two contiki like Catamarans. It was tricky. One line broke under the strain. We required multiple shore lines and 50 metres of anchor chain motored out in the dinghy by Colin and Sally to hold kika in position off the dock while the wind howled and torrential rain came in.<br />
We retired into the warmth of the cabin only to discover the loo was blocked. Colin and I had 2 goes at clearing it. The main problem was a build up of uric acid scale on the outlet valve. We eventually got it sorted and Sally had the full luxury cruising experience of unusual odours and the noise of two men cussing and swearing in the heads, while she tried to type up my short story. She gets an award for extreme typing first in a Force 9 Gale and then in a sewage depot.<br />
My shoulder ached badly, but the main thing was that we were warm and safe and out of 35 knot winds out at sea, and lying in the friendly Cook Islands.<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dz0KcCTtnrU/U-Q-7KJeqxI/AAAAAAAABSc/v7SKmIrWX0Y/s1600/DSC_0776.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dz0KcCTtnrU/U-Q-7KJeqxI/AAAAAAAABSc/v7SKmIrWX0Y/s1600/DSC_0776.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kika, shaken but not stirred. Grateful to be at rest in Avatui Harbour, Rarotonga.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02288143251258239365noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-60230267577868626912014-07-17T12:38:00.000-07:002014-07-17T12:38:02.277-07:00Tahiti to Les Isles sous le Vent (Leeward Islands)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I recovered from the shoulder op at the salubrious Tahiti Yacht Club, a very French place where you can enjoy a morning expresso and linger at a table under the trees , where I'm trying to write a short story which poor Colin has to listen to chapter by chapter as it emerges.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Meanwhile Hugh and Tony flew out over the atolls to Katui. They sat around at the dockside for a bit and then got a ride with the Mayor of Makemo in his personal speedboat back to the Atoll of Makemo where Bea was waiting in Heera. They even got a blessing on the dockside - mainly for the mayor , but they got a mention as his passengers. They arrived just as it went dark, spent the next day chilling out snorkelling on the Atoll and set off the next morning. They called in at the island of Fakarava and had an uncomfortable night at anchor on the wrong side of the Atoll when the wind came round in the night. Setting off for Papeete they had heavy winds astern, a period of no wind and then wind and current against them in the morning as they approached Tahiti in quite a bad sea.They were going backwards and pretty tired when Colin and I heard them on the VHF. So we came out and met them and guided them in to the Tahiti Yacht Club anchorage in the nick of time, just as dusk fell. The channel was unlit and in the tropics one minute it's light and the next darkness.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I-YtDBwKTyE/U8b2POk0u9I/AAAAAAAABHM/TpocAkdNCmk/s1600/DSC_0100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I-YtDBwKTyE/U8b2POk0u9I/AAAAAAAABHM/TpocAkdNCmk/s1600/DSC_0100.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First sighting of Heera and Tony<br />
at 17degrees South of the equator</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7S-BjJXMKW0/U8b22s40P3I/AAAAAAAABHQ/0ZLknv1Pvyg/s1600/DSC_0086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7S-BjJXMKW0/U8b22s40P3I/AAAAAAAABHQ/0ZLknv1Pvyg/s1600/DSC_0086.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our brave hero Able Seaman H. Clifford<br />
hails us from the foredeck</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">After a shower they regaled us and Maarten down at the local chinese with tales of Hughie's top cuisine in a 45 degree pitching boat and the Dutch habit of making a pot of tea with just a single tea bag. (Very economical!)<br />Bea had coped very well with them and the responsibility of skippering for the first time. They both said that when it was rough at night and they were falling out of their bunks they wondered why they had volunteered, however with a couple of beers and a Chinese inside them they decided it had been brilliant fun.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">On Sat 28 June Bea ,Maarten ,Tony , Hughie, Colin and I went into town ,where we had a farewell drink at Les Trois Brasseurs (a pub with its own brewery) and walked over the road to les roulades the mobile restaurants where you can eat at tables in the open air. Laurel and Hardy (alias Hugh and Tony) took off later that evening on the big bird for Los Angeles and home. We will miss them.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yDTab9VQnhg/U8b3ijQeL7I/AAAAAAAABHY/lQnPE7XLv64/s1600/DSC_0103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yDTab9VQnhg/U8b3ijQeL7I/AAAAAAAABHY/lQnPE7XLv64/s1600/DSC_0103.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kikas and Heeras crew</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Colin and I then had a fairly lazy week at the yacht club while my shoulder got better. The story I'm writing is about a fictional attempt to close a hospital down. Colin thinks its OK, but he's a very kind man.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We fixed the leaky dinghy by glueing a large strip of new material over the transom. It seems better, no more three minutes of bailing before we go ashore in the morning.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We also went to the James Norman Hall museum at Venus Point. Norman Hall was born in rural Iowa with poetry and a lust for travel in his soul. While finishing a walking holiday in North Wales in the summer of 1914, he ended up signing on as a private in the British Expeditionary Force. He fought at the battle of Loos as an infantryman. He went back to America and along with a number of other Americans became a pilot in the French Lafayette squadron. When America joined the war he transferred as a captain to an American squadron. He was a decorated fighter ace and eventually got shot down over German lines and escaped from his prison at the end of the war.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">He ended up settling down as a writer in Tahiti, where he was much loved by the locals , who had no idea of his past. He wrote the trilogy of the Bounty mutiny and was fully engaged at the centre of Tahitian culture marrying a local girl. What a life!</span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Dominique Berthier ( our single handed, Ocean racing friend) left us to return to France. We had a look round her boat before she left. After her experience of being run down in the Atlantic, her new boat is built like an aluminium tank, with solid metal guard rails. She has a little observation dome for bad weather where she can look out without getting wet. Inside it's quite French -stripped out , with none of the creature comforts of a British boat. Such is the life of an ocean adventurer!</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tgFvOmRvndk/U8b4BN24tJI/AAAAAAAABHg/YzhQ8owmZZU/s1600/DSC_0118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tgFvOmRvndk/U8b4BN24tJI/AAAAAAAABHg/YzhQ8owmZZU/s1600/DSC_0118.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dominique and her bomb proof boat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">On Sunday 29th of July Colin cycled over to Venus point while I joined Maarten and Bea in the centre of town for the celebration of the 30th anniversary of the Autonomy of French Polynesia. Everyone was dressed in tradional costume and just about every island, every section of the community, including the transsexuals and the Harley Davidson club paraded past the grandstand where the president and dignitaries sat. He was surrounded by very little security and you could go and talk to him if you wanted. The whole event had a delightful relaxed informality. The president looked a delightful old buffer smiling at everyone - however our taxi driver described him as " le grand voleur " (the big robber) and like all politicians he didn't get where he was without being a cunning old fox. In the evening we watched the fireworks which started an hour late, in true Polynesian fashion. No one seemed the least surprised or bothered.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We signed up with a sailing event . Le grand rendezvous. After a reception at the tourist office we got Kika to the start off the main harbour entrance with Maarten and Bea as additional crew. There was an informal race to Cooks bay in Moorea. It was great conditions with 15-20 knots of wind on the quarter and a lovely sunny day. Considering it wasn't handicapped and Kika was smaller and heavier than all of the other boats ,we didn't do badly , with six large boats behind us. It was interesting talking to the west coast Americans. They are not used to bad weather and try and avoid sailing in anything over 20 knots of wind. The Kiwis were quite scathing.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oBLHFFm6-uQ/U8b41ftdK4I/AAAAAAAABHo/rnBDbpULWfw/s1600/DSC_0121.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oBLHFFm6-uQ/U8b41ftdK4I/AAAAAAAABHo/rnBDbpULWfw/s1600/DSC_0121.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Off to Moorea in the race</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-USmpbFsZzYQ/U8b5iQGETQI/AAAAAAAABH0/GJAoWmFmGew/s1600/DSC_0145.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-USmpbFsZzYQ/U8b5iQGETQI/AAAAAAAABH0/GJAoWmFmGew/s1600/DSC_0145.JPG" height="133" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maarten and Bea reunited</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">On Saturday night there was a good party with a Polynesian dance troupe for entertainment. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ijHEQ-xgNAY/U8b6mjfuA4I/AAAAAAAABIA/If1fymVCY2I/s1600/DSC_0185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ijHEQ-xgNAY/U8b6mjfuA4I/AAAAAAAABIA/If1fymVCY2I/s1600/DSC_0185.JPG" height="133" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fire dancing and fire eating</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rJKgoKBZBTQ/U8b-KWvEH8I/AAAAAAAABIs/4HOhTD7Bc7A/s1600/DSC_0233.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rJKgoKBZBTQ/U8b-KWvEH8I/AAAAAAAABIs/4HOhTD7Bc7A/s1600/DSC_0233.JPG" height="133" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vahines wiggling the night away</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8IXWszpoWK4/U8b8Qoa2KNI/AAAAAAAABIQ/05p7dhcYFMs/s1600/DSC_0202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8IXWszpoWK4/U8b8Qoa2KNI/AAAAAAAABIQ/05p7dhcYFMs/s1600/DSC_0202.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colin gone Moorean</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aeFM8OOtfds/U8cwXbCzV8I/AAAAAAAABMg/8-KKTukvU1g/s1600/DSC_0534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aeFM8OOtfds/U8cwXbCzV8I/AAAAAAAABMg/8-KKTukvU1g/s1600/DSC_0534.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local girl meets Mr Moorea<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); text-align: left;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); text-align: left;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Sunday 6th June dawned with Colin and Bea from Kika teaming up with Dave and Catriona our Irish friends from Laragh as an outrigger canoe racing team. After a few words of advice from Mr Starter , a very large man, t</span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">hey paddled off with a local in the bow and stern. The timing of the paddling was a bit like a Mexican wave however they looked good and came 3rd out of 4 boats, sadly like the England football team</span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"> they did not quite </span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">make it to the next round.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><div>
<br /></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U47Q-EM86TI/U8cDguXlyuI/AAAAAAAABJo/3tcfcOKZyIE/s1600/DSC_0254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U47Q-EM86TI/U8cDguXlyuI/AAAAAAAABJo/3tcfcOKZyIE/s1600/DSC_0254.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kikas and Laraghs top racing team</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4jotVU5taOo/U8b_JTqGzTI/AAAAAAAABI0/QXgIXzrgVQA/s1600/DSC_0263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4jotVU5taOo/U8b_JTqGzTI/AAAAAAAABI0/QXgIXzrgVQA/s1600/DSC_0263.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mr Starter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N6BzMM2ApHU/U8cA0POMUmI/AAAAAAAABJA/58celxWdRoM/s1600/DSC_0260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N6BzMM2ApHU/U8cA0POMUmI/AAAAAAAABJA/58celxWdRoM/s1600/DSC_0260.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Result - they survived!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NURDkJkOPOY/U8cEWwR3kPI/AAAAAAAABJ0/eC8xphHhoNQ/s1600/DSC_0280.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NURDkJkOPOY/U8cEWwR3kPI/AAAAAAAABJ0/eC8xphHhoNQ/s1600/DSC_0280.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The gentle art of hat construction</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EmuNoOTG9Gc/U8cBAk3vGlI/AAAAAAAABJQ/At9Ym3G_fms/s1600/DSC_0295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EmuNoOTG9Gc/U8cBAk3vGlI/AAAAAAAABJQ/At9Ym3G_fms/s1600/DSC_0295.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cracking a coconut open<br />
lovely tasty water<br />
going to waste</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ArTi1GKcdJY/U8cCAjpETeI/AAAAAAAABJc/6J_14A5TNJY/s1600/DSC_0285.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ArTi1GKcdJY/U8cCAjpETeI/AAAAAAAABJc/6J_14A5TNJY/s1600/DSC_0285.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Modelled by Bea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The skipper of course , claimed to have a bad shoulder and received instruction from a lovely Moorean lady in the gentle art of making a hat out of palm leaves.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The canoe racing was followed by coconut splitting and shredding competitions at which Bea bravely took on the hard task of removing the coconut from its husk , while Colin looked on admiringly unable to shred it as time had expired.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VufgwZt38Q4/U8cuiVOTOSI/AAAAAAAABMU/_7tri2VsGmA/s1600/DSC_0305.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VufgwZt38Q4/U8cuiVOTOSI/AAAAAAAABMU/_7tri2VsGmA/s1600/DSC_0305.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colin awaits his coconut</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iWCf2uCTzuE/U8cFgI78kII/AAAAAAAABKA/roZKNNlU7-4/s1600/DSC_0443.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iWCf2uCTzuE/U8cFgI78kII/AAAAAAAABKA/roZKNNlU7-4/s1600/DSC_0443.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Revving it up</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We then moved on to Tahitian dancing tuition and eventually got the hang of the knee trembling routine to the amusement of the dance troupe who egged us on.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sE6ZV3bDpaI/U8cxYwlFPTI/AAAAAAAABMs/A_0xqp9Yeos/s1600/DSC_0320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sE6ZV3bDpaI/U8cxYwlFPTI/AAAAAAAABMs/A_0xqp9Yeos/s1600/DSC_0320.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The skippers of Kika and Heera lead the girls a merry dance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nEhvxASTbk8/U8cIGe3t4ZI/AAAAAAAABKM/5vaGE4hn4Y4/s1600/DSC_0506.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nEhvxASTbk8/U8cIGe3t4ZI/AAAAAAAABKM/5vaGE4hn4Y4/s1600/DSC_0506.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two 'orrible little Mooreans</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It was a great day, finished off with a session of Irish music on board Dave and Catrionas boat. Dave was semi professional and knows every tune you can think of. He's played in bands with a lot of big names.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-26bxh-hpC80/U8cJS6xfCUI/AAAAAAAABKY/Iwu7q7tNgOY/s1600/DSC_0592.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-26bxh-hpC80/U8cJS6xfCUI/AAAAAAAABKY/Iwu7q7tNgOY/s1600/DSC_0592.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Session on Laragh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We've taken on a lady called Sally who is from Birmingham has signed on with us for the voyage to Bora Bora and the Cook islands. Sally walked out of a secure job in Surveying Asbestos to go initially to Spain and has never looked back, crewing on boats and picking up skills to find herself in the middle of the pacific. She has no idea what will happen when we get fresh crew in the Cooks but like all adventurers is not the least bit concerned and relishes the uncertainty.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nF1rcwHaE0E/U8cKAMkPM7I/AAAAAAAABKg/70YkZRmwJFw/s1600/DSC_0611.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nF1rcwHaE0E/U8cKAMkPM7I/AAAAAAAABKg/70YkZRmwJFw/s1600/DSC_0611.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sally an improvement to Kikas waterline</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">On Monday 7th July I went back to Tahiti with Maarten and Bea, hitch hiking on another Dutch boat called Argonaut sailed by Fritz and his wife Marrion. Fritz is a retired orthopaedic surgeon and had the boat built to his specifications. Argonaut is big ,over 50 ft, made from Aluminium and very fast. She won the race over to the islands. She has salt water ballast tanks that can be filled on either side to stabilise the boat on a beat, a hydraulically operated lifting keel which unfortuneately wasn't working due to corrosion of the hydraulic pipes ,which left her with a draft of 3.5 metres. The winches are huge and electrically powered,and the accommodation below is very spacious . Fritz and Marion were great hosts for the passage and the boat rattled along at a good angle to windward and 8 knots on the beat effortlessly. However the big winches and high tech gear scared me. Too much to go wrong and very difficult to fix if it does. I think she was also quite a handful for Fritz and Marrion on their own.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xZjVjQzOcps/U8cLqmSP3dI/AAAAAAAABKs/YfOhMvqn8hE/s1600/DSC_0603.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xZjVjQzOcps/U8cLqmSP3dI/AAAAAAAABKs/YfOhMvqn8hE/s1600/DSC_0603.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hitching a lift on Argonaut</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Tuesday saw me signed off by Dr Guy Paul Muller my orthopaedic surgeon who seemed pleased with progress, and said it was because I was from Pays de Galle ( he enjoys rugby).</span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I said farewell to Maarten and Bea who put me up on Heera on Monday night and cooked a delicious stew. They are staying in Tahiti until Maarten is given the all clear by his Medics , so they will haul the boat out and repaint the steel.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Hopefully they will complete their voyage via the Gambier Islands , Pitcairn and Easter Islands back to South America and Panama to take the boat back to Holland. They have been great company and are definitely glass half full rather than glass half empty people.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NORAo7o92e4/U8c2f8S_lCI/AAAAAAAABNk/Fy-0Gf-5IZc/s1600/DSC_0618.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NORAo7o92e4/U8c2f8S_lCI/AAAAAAAABNk/Fy-0Gf-5IZc/s1600/DSC_0618.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kika at ease in Cooks Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Got the ferry back to Moorea on Tuesday and took a taxi back to Cooks Bay to find Colin and Sally hitch hiking back from the Belvedere view point which they had been taken to by two lovely elderly New Yorkers. They had had a great day and had a fantastic view of the two bays from the mountains. </span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GAx8s0C378w/U8cMu0dknjI/AAAAAAAABK4/W-XmgXHQ78U/s1600/DSC_0647.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GAx8s0C378w/U8cMu0dknjI/AAAAAAAABK4/W-XmgXHQ78U/s1600/DSC_0647.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cooks Bay and Oponuhu Bay from Belvedere Point</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Cooks Bay never fails to provide a wonderful panorama with the light at different times showing up different rock features including a hole in the top of of Mou'a pu (the pierced mountain) . It happened when a great warrior Pa'i , brought up by the gods and given supernatural powers threw his spear through the mountain causing it to shake and thoroughly scaring off Hiro another chief from the next island who was trying to take Moorea. Who needs artillery!</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5DhUu3U6x1o/U8ccXSLTZQI/AAAAAAAABLc/fGWG5cZGWko/s1600/DSC_0663.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5DhUu3U6x1o/U8ccXSLTZQI/AAAAAAAABLc/fGWG5cZGWko/s1600/DSC_0663.JPG" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can just see the hole at the<br />
top of the mountain</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pf64yLXwlHc/U8cdHhO4SqI/AAAAAAAABLk/FypLH7POCRM/s1600/DSC_0580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pf64yLXwlHc/U8cdHhO4SqI/AAAAAAAABLk/FypLH7POCRM/s1600/DSC_0580.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The anchorage at Cooks bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We left Moorea on Wednesday afternoon for an overnight passage to Huahine the first of the Leeward Islands, or Les Isles sous le Vent as the French call them. The wind strengthened and came round to the North in the night . Kika rattled along on a beam reach at nearly 7 knots . We found the pass through the reef on which huge waves were breaking took down the mainsail and ghosted down in the 7 mile passage between the outer reef and the land under foresail. It was spectacular watching an island scenery of tropical forest and coconut trees glide past. We anchored up for lunch in a big lake inlet and finally anchored in a lovely protected bay at the south end of the island. We sneaked into the nearby hotel, and went snorkelling off the hotel beach which was right on the coral reef. The colour and variety of fish swimming around ,the garden of sea anemones ,sponges and waving algae was truly spectacular. The smaller fish go and hide in the anemones , but the bigger ones just look at you .There's even a surgeon fish, presumably the reincarnation of dodgy surgeons who paid in the next life for their mistakes!</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B6LItJCwcEc/U8giSzeZfkI/AAAAAAAABOU/ZrIVrJdaT_c/s1600/GOPR0032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B6LItJCwcEc/U8giSzeZfkI/AAAAAAAABOU/ZrIVrJdaT_c/s1600/GOPR0032.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">abundant life, glorious colour in crystal waters</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">On 12 July we hired a car to look round the beautiful island of Huahine. It is completely undeveloped with most of the population working quite hard on the land. There were no plantations here , so there is no stigma attached to agricultural work. The island is largely protestant , thanks to the efforts of the London Missionary Society whose Missionaries eventually got kicked off by the French and ended up stewed in a pot by the islanders of Vanu atu, who didn't see religious conversion in quite the same light.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">First stop was a vanilla farm where Francois an enthusiast showed us the life cycle of the vanilla plant. The Leeward islands are the top place for vanilla in the world! It's grown for three years in a nursery, then transferred to a bigger house. It will only produce a vanilla pod if it flowers after a further nine months, and then the pod six months afterwards. One flower one pod. Francois explained that the cycle is much faster in Madagascar where the plants are forced arificially in brighter sunlight and fertilizer however the vanilla pod ends up being very dry and brittle. Those little pods are quite valuable - we never realised ,so we have bought some to put in the rum and mix it with coconut water for a sundowner.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-55DAszIEfAo/U8czdXWQcqI/AAAAAAAABM4/tXNumQa0zag/s1600/DSC_0910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-55DAszIEfAo/U8czdXWQcqI/AAAAAAAABM4/tXNumQa0zag/s1600/DSC_0910.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vanilla</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w7w3NUrGRLo/U8c0IWarswI/AAAAAAAABNI/P4Lv15BA77w/s1600/DSC_0932.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w7w3NUrGRLo/U8c0IWarswI/AAAAAAAABNI/P4Lv15BA77w/s1600/DSC_0932.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With our host Francois</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We crossed a bridge between the two halves of the island, Pont de Maroe, where some young lads were jumping off the bridge. Colin stripped off and joined them, and after a few technical tips from a six year old made a superb descent off the 40 ft parapet.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YJsEpjMjlfM/U8chcyZ_iAI/AAAAAAAABL8/LLGgASZrvqI/s1600/DSC_0981.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YJsEpjMjlfM/U8chcyZ_iAI/AAAAAAAABL8/LLGgASZrvqI/s1600/DSC_0981.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Life on board Kika is just too much! - no 1 takes a leap into oblivion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The main town Farae was in the middle of Haeva celebrations with a 3 hour endurance outrigger canoe race between the villages . Each village with a distinctive flag, cheered on by enthusiastic supporters. The lads had been training for weeks and had enormous upper body strength, with their muscles glistening in the salt spray and sunlight. In the superbly crafted light weight canoes there was a water jug with pipes going to every canoeist so they could keep hydrated. Occasionally on the turns a canoe would overturn and add to the exitement. Eat your heart out Oxford and Cambridge!</span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">On the remote half of the island , we visited a small stream containing sacred blue eyed eels, sacred because they contain the spirits of the islanders ancestors. These enormous eels are fed daily and travel over 1000 miles to breed. The stream they live in was no bigger than a farm brook in which you would normally find minnows.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9yTeUigLMYQ/U8c1kM2_j8I/AAAAAAAABNY/gKbm10MoZ_Y/s1600/DSC_1026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9yTeUigLMYQ/U8c1kM2_j8I/AAAAAAAABNY/gKbm10MoZ_Y/s1600/DSC_1026.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ancient fish traps</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N-DAKdw72UA/U8ciKeNjHMI/AAAAAAAABME/ztLc9up6IUo/s1600/DSC_1045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N-DAKdw72UA/U8ciKeNjHMI/AAAAAAAABME/ztLc9up6IUo/s1600/DSC_1045.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sacred blue eyed eels</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">On 13 July , we made the short 25 mile passage in calm conditions to Raiatea, steaming through the Iruru pass and into beautiful Faraa bay ;surrounded on both sides by tropical forest we dropped the hook just as dusk fell. We took the dinghy the next day, up the winding Faroa river up to a loosely termed botanical gardens, which was really a farm growing loads of different trees. It was run by a young man called James who showed us round. There was mint, basil , tapioca (uugh, remember that at school) and sweet potatoes growing wild. The flowers were very colourful and included bird of paradise, and a fire flower that made red ginger. Papaya, no no medicine trees, banana, orange, pineapple, jackfruit, and coconut were everywhere. The main labour involved was strimming the grass so it didn't revert to jungle. There was a Mormon church next door, but James had rejected it in favour of the protestant church on the grounds that he liked to drink alcohol and have coffee and only needed one wife, an eminently practical approach. We left loaded up with Papaya,bananas and coconuts. Kika looks like a fruit market!</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LADZa3NMwp8/U8gkqbIwOgI/AAAAAAAABOg/_dsdJw1D9Bc/s1600/DSC_0771.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LADZa3NMwp8/U8gkqbIwOgI/AAAAAAAABOg/_dsdJw1D9Bc/s1600/DSC_0771.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And so its time...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AaW7CSq2vsc/U8gksKMZpuI/AAAAAAAABOo/avcNJwOJAMM/s1600/DSC_0772.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AaW7CSq2vsc/U8gksKMZpuI/AAAAAAAABOo/avcNJwOJAMM/s1600/DSC_0772.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...to move on!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02288143251258239365noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-43131356105438575022014-06-26T17:10:00.000-07:002014-06-26T17:10:43.019-07:00Tahiti<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
We settled in to a comfortable berth in the centre of Papeetes waterfront.<br />
Papeete is the French Administrative capital for the whole of French Polynesia. In the park there's a statue to Loius de Bougainville the 'discoverer ' of Tahiti despite the fact that Captains Wallis and Cook arrived here some time before. In the 1840s the French did a deal with Queen Pomaire and made the place a French protectorate. The Pomaire dynasty only got going 50 years earlier using stolen guns from the Bounty to subdue their local opposition. King Pomaire11 succumbed to the missionaries adopting Christianity and abolishing traditional beliefs, and his daughter Queen Aimata Pomaire's agreement in 1842 turned them into puppet rulers, in exchange for a lifetime annuity and a symbolic role.<br />
<br />
De Bougainville went back to France via Brazil and picked up a few plants including the subtly named Bougainvillia. His statue is surrounded by cannon from the French battleship Zellee, which got sunk in the First World War by two German Cruisers that wanted to recoal. They also blew up half of Papeete.<br />
Another German Count Felix von Lucknow ran a notorious 3 masted privateer the 'Seeadler' in these waters at the turn of the century sinking 19 ships. He was eventually wrecked off Maupihaa reef in 1917 but returned some 20 years later in 1937 , some say to recover his horde of loot.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Mm27UbkV2LY/U6yjFaX51lI/AAAAAAAABDw/6ox4UH5299E/s1600/DSC_0030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Mm27UbkV2LY/U6yjFaX51lI/AAAAAAAABDw/6ox4UH5299E/s1600/DSC_0030.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bougainville Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Today the French are reasonably well tolerated and provide excellent healthcare and education for the islanders, although there is an independence movement, and the locals are still seriously exercised about French nuclear testing. During our stay a Japanese peace ship arrived from Nagasaki. In a ceremony at a memorial to Nuclear victims which we witnessed; the Japanese were told of the 196 nuclear devices exploded on Mauroora Atoll, the last one in 1996. The Tahitians are worried about radioactivity affecting their fishing, the possibility of underground collapse causing a Tsunami, and compensation for the workers and their families who either died or still suffer from radiation sickness. They described themselves as fighting the legal system of a great colonial power that was not on their side.<br />
<br />
We went on a bit of a spending spree on Friday. Off came the foresail and off to the sailmakers for a new UV strip. We bought a few other goodies for the boat as we had not seen the inside of a chandlers since Panama. John who is a very handy engineer managed to get a more permanent repair of the mast head light than I had and also at Colin's suggestion ingeniously drilled out the core of our broken Spanish Gas bottle switch for which there were no parts, so we can use the Spanish bottles as spares.<br />
<br />
Walking around town is interesting. Most shops and businesses are owned by the Chinese as Tahitians do not really have a business culture. They love singing and dancing to the accopaiment of ukeleles and drums, and they are frequently moving fast in their out rigger canoes around the harbour which they race at the Heiva festival in July. They are great fishermen, farm generally at a subsistence level and just dont see the point of beavering away and amassing vast quantities of wealth. Elderly Tahitians often complain about the youngsters not wanting to get involved in farming , but it might just be a generation thing. There do seem to be a lot of young people hanging about in the villages with no obvious form of employment, quite a few of whom are markedly obese.There is also a large transvestite community in the islands. Its quite common for a family with a lot of boys to dress one of them up as a girl on a permanent basis.<br />
<br />
The Market is a vibrant place. Fresh fish, vegetables and other produce are sold along with beautiful necklaces and ornaments made from sea shells and Black pearls. We eat out at a large open air square where vans of every description arrive and are transformed into individual restaurants with surrounding tables with music and singing from a band with multiple ukeleles and a drummer. All this and half the price of a regular restaurant. On other evenings Susanne has revved up the cooking to Cordon Blue standards with fresh produce from the market.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gyEX5Svj2JU/U6ysB7YjQUI/AAAAAAAABFI/o2JuoQP61dg/s1600/DSC_0015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gyEX5Svj2JU/U6ysB7YjQUI/AAAAAAAABFI/o2JuoQP61dg/s1600/DSC_0015.JPG" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The indoor market</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1p-rTTq_fsQ/U6yqR1hfhmI/AAAAAAAABEw/9TCRH6ifhjI/s1600/DSC_0013.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1p-rTTq_fsQ/U6yqR1hfhmI/AAAAAAAABEw/9TCRH6ifhjI/s1600/DSC_0013.jpg" height="200" width="133" /></a></div>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a8Q1NaVrImQ/U6yqrZ6FFlI/AAAAAAAABFA/0SMeakCLudU/s1600/DSC_0022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a8Q1NaVrImQ/U6yqrZ6FFlI/AAAAAAAABFA/0SMeakCLudU/s1600/DSC_0022.JPG" height="133" width="200" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PVfHMzrAnA8/U6yqZymPH4I/AAAAAAAABE4/IecKW0frqzI/s1600/DSC_0017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PVfHMzrAnA8/U6yqZymPH4I/AAAAAAAABE4/IecKW0frqzI/s1600/DSC_0017.JPG" height="133" width="200" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
This stay has been complicated by another shoulder dislocation which I managed climbing the marina railings when we were locked out. This time Colin's and Johns best efforts failed to get a result and I went down to the local hospital , where Ketamine and a boot in the axilla courtesy of Dr Gerome Lecroix got it back in. The A&E department was most impressive with a nurse initially attempting an expert manipulation and placing an intravenous line. In view of all the bother I have booked in with the local orthopaedic surgeon Dr Muller ( ex chef de clinic ) in Paris for a proper repair.<br />
<br />
We said sad goodbyes to Susanne super chef and John ace engineer who seem to have to return to a mysterious world called work. My old school pal Hugh Clifford and sailing and skiing mate Tony Power have arrived on the big bird and are already cracking jokes , re introducing Colin and I to a dissolute shore life . I don't know how we will survive a month.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x5NDgviH3Vk/U6yj0fzeezI/AAAAAAAABD4/MwsJO7zsrPs/s1600/DSC_0800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x5NDgviH3Vk/U6yj0fzeezI/AAAAAAAABD4/MwsJO7zsrPs/s1600/DSC_0800.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Show me the way to go home!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
On Wednesday 4. June we left Papeete on a short passage to Cooks Bay , Moorea. The island was previously used by Tahitian Royalty to fatten their princesses up prior to marriage. The bay is approached by a well marked pass through the reef, and surrounded by mountains. We sailed up to a tranquil anchorage at the head of the bay, and went ashore to enjoy the Bali Hai club ashore , an establishment friendly to cruising boats that provides internet, showers, a book exchange and cold beers. I have been commuting by taxi and ferry to Papeete for out patient appointments and CT scans while the lads have been chilling . After a couple of days we sailed round the corner to Oponuhu Bay. James Cook actually landed here and in a move unusual for him set fire to a number of huts because the locals had stolen a goat. Robinson's cove a picturesque spot in the heart of the bay was used to film Mutiny on the Bounty. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6l6BCLRb-1M/U6yzp2S1L7I/AAAAAAAABGg/aLAzmCqJqNE/s1600/DSC_0388.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6l6BCLRb-1M/U6yzp2S1L7I/AAAAAAAABGg/aLAzmCqJqNE/s1600/DSC_0388.jpg" height="280" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Let me out of here!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AhGeAUo0ZHA/U6ymiU-ZejI/AAAAAAAABEg/Nm2090jN1Lc/s1600/DSC_0501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AhGeAUo0ZHA/U6ymiU-ZejI/AAAAAAAABEg/Nm2090jN1Lc/s1600/DSC_0501.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kika at anchor within the reef</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We Anchored in three different places, eventually ending up in an anchorage pool just off the large intercontinental hotel where you pay £350 a night for a room. We sneaked in using the dinghy , posing as hotel guests and enjoyed a swim in the eternity swimming pool and their internet and paid for it with a rather expensive beer. The boys went snorkelling at feeding time organised by the hotel and were surrounded by stingrays and black tipped reef sharks which don't attack people.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8MeBFT897Gc/U6y1lopD8GI/AAAAAAAABGs/Xqk35oMB0Ms/s1600/DSC_0553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8MeBFT897Gc/U6y1lopD8GI/AAAAAAAABGs/Xqk35oMB0Ms/s1600/DSC_0553.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of the hotel complex</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We met two lovely New Zealanders Margaret and Bill Thorpe from Gisbourne on the North Island. They paddled out in a canoe to the anchorage. Bill seemed to grow and distribute an awful lot of Kiwi fruit, but like many entrepreneurs he seemed to create opportunities for others with numerous projects that he had started and handed over. They were both big hearted people.<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzxFvKcYXapqTceWKFZBBj5lWdkyydsxQczLf7UXV2MwpFhoUV2EyCdmNNLC7dwBAdcqQ9Dhqf-8CYANAkWmA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>On the following morning the wind got up making the anchorage uncomfortable. We had a bit of trouble getting the anchor up, it had caught on some coral but finally freed after we had driven over it a few times. Repairing to beautiful calm Cooks bay , we sampled the delights of local Tahitian dancers at the Bali Hai Club. Hugh got into the swing of it when he was invited up and swung his knees like a local with a bit of encouragement from a beautiful grass skirted lady. Tony has the video.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kzNvJW7ba-A/U6ykWVygdeI/AAAAAAAABEA/vY0OQmoc-44/s1600/Image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kzNvJW7ba-A/U6ykWVygdeI/AAAAAAAABEA/vY0OQmoc-44/s1600/Image.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hugh shows the locals how to really move!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Tony who is a top class jeweller, bought some indidual black pearls that he could mount back home . Pearl farming is complex, young oysters are harvested and then a small part of another oyster is injected into their reproductive organ. The shell then secretes regular layers of nacre around this foreign body forming the pearl and the shells are harvested some 4 years later. The valuable pearls are those with no marks or imperfections. However it takes a magnifying loop to tell the difference.<br />
<br />
Food was easy with freshly caught slices of local Tuna from the fishermen at the roadside making a delicious Sashimi with Wasabi paste stirred up in Soy sauce as a dip, courtesy of Hugh and Tony .Colin and I are putting on weight! Fishing inside the reef is not a good idea because of the danger of Ciguatera poisoning(a nasty neurotoxin that has a cumulative effect).<br />
<br />
Sunday 15 June saw us beating back to windward to Papeete and Tahiti. Going just 20 miles backwards against the wind was surpringly hard going. We sailed past the town of Papeete to a different pass that took us in to the Lee of Point Venus and a very welcoming manager at the Tahiti Yacht Club who came out in his boat to help us moor up. At the club bar, Lena the proprietress invited us over to eat our take away pizzas and introduced us to a modest middle aged lady called Dominique who lived on a boat and taught IT. She happened to mention that in the 70s she was a singlehander racing across the Atlantic from Plymouth. 500 miles out from Lands End she was hit by a freighter that didn't stop. The boat was seriously damaged so she controlled the leaks and headed back to Cornwall. Two days later the boat sank and she took to her dinghy. In those days many boats including hers did not have a radio. Fortunately she was seen by a fishing boat and picked up. What a lady!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KJOtMhLBlu4/U6ys-Z-GsAI/AAAAAAAABFU/Giu7FkJB9l0/s1600/DSC_0714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KJOtMhLBlu4/U6ys-Z-GsAI/AAAAAAAABFU/Giu7FkJB9l0/s1600/DSC_0714.jpg" height="258" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">just another day on the beach!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eMrMgkC66z8/U6ys_ORfuiI/AAAAAAAABFc/5Q6Vsk0jcA0/s1600/DSC_0725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eMrMgkC66z8/U6ys_ORfuiI/AAAAAAAABFc/5Q6Vsk0jcA0/s1600/DSC_0725.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hugh and Tony prepare for battle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QytKacMiKCY/U6ytDBy4QyI/AAAAAAAABFk/AGEpf_HYtbg/s1600/DSC_0747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QytKacMiKCY/U6ytDBy4QyI/AAAAAAAABFk/AGEpf_HYtbg/s1600/DSC_0747.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Triumphant Tony after Hugh goes under</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cvpBB5wy3F8/U6ytIleFwdI/AAAAAAAABFs/ZBgz01AuQSk/s1600/DSC_0751.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cvpBB5wy3F8/U6ytIleFwdI/AAAAAAAABFs/ZBgz01AuQSk/s1600/DSC_0751.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hugh prepares revenge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We've been in Touch with our Dutch friends Maarten and Bea. Maarten had a small clot in his Carotid artery break off and cause transient neurological damage. He was seen by a visiting opthalmologist in Makemo Atoll in the Tuamotous islands who diagnosed the problem and flew him back to Tahiti taking him to the hospital in his own car. He's now doing well on anticoagulants, and the public hospital he is staying in is first class with a beautiful modern building, staffed largely by French doctors and nurses . However Bea is stranded in Makemo some two days sail away with no crew. Tony and Hugh have kindly agreed to fly out while I'm recovering from shoulder surgery and they will sail back with Bea. It will be good for them to see a proper pacific atoll and sail a lovely old Dutch Gaff Rigger.<br />
While I've been in Hospital the lads went on a day trip by Catamaran to the nearby uninhabited Atoll of Teratoia where there is no pass and you have to surf over the reef in a dinghy. They had a splendid day snorkeling and wandering around the atoll to see the bird life with a barbecue lunch on the beach. My operation went smoothly , the only problem is that I've got to keep my arm in a sling for 2-3weeks.<br />
<br />
And finally ...some birds.....<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZReOCawimKo/U6yvUxx8R0I/AAAAAAAABF4/FYg2Rc_eY8k/s1600/DSC_0766.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZReOCawimKo/U6yvUxx8R0I/AAAAAAAABF4/FYg2Rc_eY8k/s1600/DSC_0766.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polynesian Booby bird, striking blue eyes and beak, feet a bit drab!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7IsAXmqlOxA/U6ywDf8NJfI/AAAAAAAABGA/dqIcwR4Tm3s/s1600/P3250283.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7IsAXmqlOxA/U6ywDf8NJfI/AAAAAAAABGA/dqIcwR4Tm3s/s1600/P3250283.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">..in contrast to the blue footed Booby found in the Galapagos<br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Th52zL5nooQ/U6yw3qV3AbI/AAAAAAAABGQ/RVUeit3bf0w/s1600/DSC_0781.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Th52zL5nooQ/U6yw3qV3AbI/AAAAAAAABGQ/RVUeit3bf0w/s1600/DSC_0781.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hugh and Tony are fascinated by boobies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-72Ny-CEuQbs/U6yxcymOcvI/AAAAAAAABGU/eSTI1EabPmQ/s1600/DSC_0783.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-72Ny-CEuQbs/U6yxcymOcvI/AAAAAAAABGU/eSTI1EabPmQ/s1600/DSC_0783.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">but off she flies...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02288143251258239365noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-51463862034725691082014-06-04T13:15:00.000-07:002014-06-04T13:15:10.637-07:00Nuku Hiva to Tahiti<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div id="yui_3_16_0_2_1400961159315_4" style="font-family: verdana, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin-bottom: 0.1em; margin-top: 0.1em; padding: 0px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">Nuku Hiva and it's port Tahoie in which we anchored is the main administrative centre for the Marquesas. We dinghied ashore to find Kevin an American who runs a yacht services company with a can do attitude. If he couldn't do something he would get in touch with someone who did. He's managed to repair our spinnaker at very reasonable rates, hopefully solve our SSB software issues, and refill all our gas bottles. The internet works well in the dockside cafe which is full of cruising sailors swapping stories over a glass of Pamplamouse and Guava juice which is delicious.</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">Twice a week at 6 am its possible to buy fresh veg including lettuce and tomatoes on the dockside where large quantities of freshly caught tuna are also cut up and sold. The remnants are fed to the sharks which go into a feeding frenzy just off the dinghy dock. Musicians often come down to the waterfront, and one night Colin and I joined them with the fiddle when they were playing at the birthday party of a young gendarme in the gendarmerie. It was good fun, we were courteously looked after and it was interesting to talk to the birthday boy who was 25 , spoke excellent English and was on 3 month rotations between Martinique, Guadelope, the Marquesas and Iraq of all places. The French seem to have a fast track system for their bright boys. When we announced Peters departure at the cop shop the next day, we were treated like old friends. The paperwork could not have been easier! </span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">Peter had a great day quad biking over the mountains , some of the tracks he described as like driving over the Crib Goch ridge on Mount Snowdon , while Colin and I went up into the mountains with a lady called Sabine to go horse riding for the afternoon. Her farm was about 6,000 feet above sea level and it was interesting to see the lush vegetation change to lichen clad conifers in the hills. Sabines family rent their land from the government. There were plenty of good looking beef cattle and horses on the top. Sabine explained that a few years ago the island had brought in large numbers of New Zealand cattle to improve their breeding, and you could see healthy looking Hereford/ Limousin crosses . With no real winter the cattle stay out all year and some in the interior are wild. They hunt pigs and cattle with dogs and sometimes automatic weapons ! Things in the hills are pretty lawless. </span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c858a8avdgQ/U46ZlxrNEOI/AAAAAAAAA_k/KQt4eoJnMPU/s1600/P1010447.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c858a8avdgQ/U46ZlxrNEOI/AAAAAAAAA_k/KQt4eoJnMPU/s1600/P1010447.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peter standing above Tahoie Bay, Kika is down there!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fqWq9hzXm00/U46aFiHBPwI/AAAAAAAAA_s/qeATnDj1mBo/s1600/IMGP0027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fqWq9hzXm00/U46aFiHBPwI/AAAAAAAAA_s/qeATnDj1mBo/s1600/IMGP0027.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sabine prepares the ride</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">They had also tried reseeding the grassland with New Zealand grass but this had been less successful. They don't seem to take off a forage crop largely because the grass grows all year round although Sabine said it was because they couldn't afford the machinery. Most of the Islands food seems to be imported from elsewhere at subsidised prices, despite the volcanic soil being quite rich and able to support market gardening. Despite numerous hens scuttling about the island ran out of eggs when a supply boat came in late. The French support the Polynesian Islands to the tune of a billion francs a month and most of the islanders don't seem to feel any need to have a business culture.</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">Col and I got settled on a couple of steady horses and Sabine took us on a trail through the forest and hills. Col got thrown by a horse the last time he went riding and was most reassured by his well behaved Marquesan mare. The horses are all very slender but quite strong and hardy and are classically ridden bare back by the locals at quite a young age. The horses in the interior are wild and you got a feel for the vast areas of the island that are far from any road and totally untamed.</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">Sussanne Liese our friend from Las Palmas has joined us for a month. As a result things are improving markedly in the catering, provisioning and organisation department. We said goodbye to Peter who has been a star and was planning a few days in Tahiti before heading home.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2vBlD5ze2uM/U46ar_kI0FI/AAAAAAAAA_0/LqEW8OJ8-ps/s1600/DSC_0043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2vBlD5ze2uM/U46ar_kI0FI/AAAAAAAAA_0/LqEW8OJ8-ps/s1600/DSC_0043.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Susanne works wonders in Kika's oven </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">As we had a bit of time on our hands before John Oates our next new crew member arrived, we took Kika on a circumnavigation of the island. We called into Daniels Bay a spectacular anchorage surrounded by mountains and went ashore to hike to a waterfall the next morning. We passed through a small village and arranged lunch with a gentleman called Tahitai for our return . The path wound through the forest along the course of the river , through the remains of large abandoned settlements with alters and carved Tikis. Apparently there were originally 3,000 Polynesians living in the valley. Tahitai's great great grandfather had paid them to sign some piece of paper he had cooked up with the French giving him land rights and then driven them off. As a result there's one extended family living there now.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A-16vxZCSx8/U460yMCSvfI/AAAAAAAABAE/h3cyRnDc574/s1600/IMG_0029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A-16vxZCSx8/U460yMCSvfI/AAAAAAAABAE/h3cyRnDc574/s1600/IMG_0029.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daniels Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cfNHedDMmFQ/U461uhTDh4I/AAAAAAAABAQ/cJX8JHEEdec/s1600/DSC_1113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cfNHedDMmFQ/U461uhTDh4I/AAAAAAAABAQ/cJX8JHEEdec/s1600/DSC_1113.jpg" height="400" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The backdrop at Daniels Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-die54nDIRXI/U493ioS7gTI/AAAAAAAABCs/1wBu1Ca-Mg8/s1600/DSC_1051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-die54nDIRXI/U493ioS7gTI/AAAAAAAABCs/1wBu1Ca-Mg8/s1600/DSC_1051.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reaching the waterfall at last!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Nf09W3Qsffg/U493dhECXmI/AAAAAAAABCk/u8U-Jj2PQtE/s1600/DSC_1052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Nf09W3Qsffg/U493dhECXmI/AAAAAAAABCk/u8U-Jj2PQtE/s1600/DSC_1052.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a></div>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1sfXbT4DMCM/U493ZwG1dUI/AAAAAAAABCc/QpBe1efomJo/s1600/DSC_1053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We got lost in a mangrove plantation but eventually found our way back onto the path marked with small stone cairns to walk into a steep sided ravine at the bottom of which was a small lake which you swam through to get to a very high waterfall. You were sprayed by the waterfall totally surrounded by huge canyons of rock reaching up to the distant sky. An unforgettable experience. Somewhat the worse for wear with insect bites and blisters we had a welcome late lunch back at the village and got back on Kika by nightfall. </span></a><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">The following day we beat hard against the wind all day to arrive in the lovely anchorage of Anaho bay. Colin and I walked over the mountain to the next bay where there was a road! and a place where you could buy cold drinks even on a Sunday. There were hundreds of Mango trees on the way up. Colin made a few squirrel like stores of Mangos for the return journey and determinedly bashed away at a fallen coconut that eventually produced some juice. More people are killed standing under coconut trees in the tropics than anything else! The view of the bay from the top with Kika lying in the anchorage was a true picture postcard. That evening we had three boat crews over for drinks and a good jamming session with two guitars and the fiddle.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nG121igDU5o/U495Dgm4hzI/AAAAAAAABC4/7oVwQs1PiYo/s1600/DSC_1131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nG121igDU5o/U495Dgm4hzI/AAAAAAAABC4/7oVwQs1PiYo/s1600/DSC_1131.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Susanne at Anaho Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QcUggJ2Nk9E/U47R8cOEovI/AAAAAAAABAg/sbXVeISRn0E/s1600/DSC_1145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QcUggJ2Nk9E/U47R8cOEovI/AAAAAAAABAg/sbXVeISRn0E/s1600/DSC_1145.jpg" height="400" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colin's mango stash</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7oCRjycM-Ww/U47ShiXec8I/AAAAAAAABAo/5FOc2-Pi0rw/s1600/DSC_1116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7oCRjycM-Ww/U47ShiXec8I/AAAAAAAABAo/5FOc2-Pi0rw/s1600/DSC_1116.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Its tough out here!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PdMn5weIaZo/U47UC9FMzzI/AAAAAAAABA8/fbknDgEWkDw/s1600/DSC_1153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PdMn5weIaZo/U47UC9FMzzI/AAAAAAAABA8/fbknDgEWkDw/s1600/DSC_1153.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entertaining fellow yachts aboard Kika</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bDPaYDQ6NLE/U47VCIWLHWI/AAAAAAAABBI/WwZ0tgGYaXc/s1600/DSC_1143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bDPaYDQ6NLE/U47VCIWLHWI/AAAAAAAABBI/WwZ0tgGYaXc/s1600/DSC_1143.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">at the top of the pass above Anaho</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">The next day we lounged around and then went snorkelling off the dinghy looking at Manta rays on the reef. Unfortunately in trying to haul myself back up into the dinghy I re dislocated my shoulder. I swam to the rocks and sat there. Colin went back to Kika and got help from our Austrian friends David and Bella Sturm who recovered me in their rib. We got back on board and it was the same routine Iv Morphine self administered and Colin did a very slick job getting the joint back in with very little pain compared to last time. I think the capsule definitely needs tightening up when we get home. We went over and had a lovely dinner with David and Bella our on their beautifully maintained Sadler 29, called Admetus. David likes British boats and expressed an interest in upgrading to a Rival 38 like Kika when we get to Australia. We knew he was interested when he snorkelled underneath to look at the keel, so you never know it may work out.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qkbPHW8IcrE/U47TUxjQwDI/AAAAAAAABA0/vv2H0-uM_iE/s1600/DSC_1164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qkbPHW8IcrE/U47TUxjQwDI/AAAAAAAABA0/vv2H0-uM_iE/s1600/DSC_1164.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">David and Bella on their Sadler 29</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">We had a tough day beating around the headland at the North Eastern end of the island to get back to Taihoie Bay. There was a foul tide, considerable swell and it was hard to lay a course without motor sailing even after rounding the headland.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">We returned to diesel , water and provision the boat. John Oates my old ENT buddy from Burton on Trent showed up at midday on 15 May in a paramo suit ( colloquially called the Ryan Air kangaroo coat for taking extra weight). Despite it's high tech qualities even John had to admit to our friendly Gendarme that he was a bit hot.</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">On the evening of 15 May we went 3 miles to anchor in Daniels bay and escape the swell in Taihoie bay apparently caused by weather over 1,000 miles South of us. After settling John and Susanne into the boat we set off on the 540 mile trip to Apataki atoll in the Tuamotous atolls at 10 the next morning on the 16 May.</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">Once we had cleared the Islands a 20 knot SE wind kicked in. We were on a beam reach and cracking along at 7 knots. There was a bit of a sea which affected our new crew members, who coped with seasickness very well. We moved Susanne back amidships from the fore cabin where the motion was more comfortable. On the first night we put in a reef in the main and reduced the genoa . Kika steered well on the windvane and at 6.5 knots the Duogen propellor charges the batteries well.</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">Over the first 48 hours we covered 300 miles, a record for Kika. We eat very well courtesy of Susanne who makes remarkable dishes out of leftovers. The SSB radio is now working very well and were getting a good signal to Manihi for E mails and downloading GRIB files which show the wind easing as we near the Tuamotus atolls.</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">Our plan is to go to Apatiki where there is a boatyard that can haul out Kika at cheap rates. We're not sure if they will be able to sell us the right anti fouling so if they can't we won't haul out and will just snorkel clean with scrapers under the boat </span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">Approaching an atoll is a hazardous business. Because they lie only 6-8 feet above sea level, you don't see the reefs till the last minute. You get into the atoll by going through gaps in the reef called passes. The tide can rip in and out of these passes so it is important to time entry at relatively slack water and in the morning when the sun is overhead and you can see unmarked areas of coral . We will probably haul someone up onto the spreaders with Polaroid sun specs to act as a spotter. It's no wonder these atolls are referred to by mariners as the dangerous Islands. Our plan is to get near to Apataki and then heave to so as to approach the atoll early in the morning. </span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">We hove to during the night and reached the North western pass to Apatiki atoll at 8am in time for slack water. The pass itself was fine ,but there was some choppy water just inside where the end of the flood tide met the ebb . It was 17 miles across the atoll against the wind to the Carenage , so we beat across the atoll narrowly missing an unmarked reef on one occasion. John was very handy as a spotter on the bows. The other hazard was buoys from the pearl farmers. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">We arrived in the afternoon, surveyed the island with its blanched white coral beach, coconut trees and clear water . We picked up a mooring and dinghied ashore to meet Alfred and Tony Lau who live on this tropical paradise.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MxHbcpd5kDg/U47V9TYFW0I/AAAAAAAABBU/vt3UcNQXkiU/s1600/DSC_0029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MxHbcpd5kDg/U47V9TYFW0I/AAAAAAAABBU/vt3UcNQXkiU/s1600/DSC_0029.jpg" height="400" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apatiki</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QRbW6wYd7Cg/U495I0d3ysI/AAAAAAAABDE/iqQ2lIPVVQ4/s1600/DSC_0160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QRbW6wYd7Cg/U495I0d3ysI/AAAAAAAABDE/iqQ2lIPVVQ4/s1600/DSC_0160.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John revs it up!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">The family own the island and five years ago switched from pearl farming to running a Carenage for cruisers. You can store your boat ashore and have it tied down with straps attached to enormous concrete blocks to withstand a cyclone or they can arrange a haul out and pressure washing service where you do your own anti fouling at very reasonable prices. We rumaged around in Toni's store and found an old tin of black Joton anti fouling - perfect!</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">We strolled round the island, stepping over numerous hermit crabs which scuttled across the path. The island has its fair share of rats imported off visiting ships centuries ago and in the reef sharks get active at night so it's best to go snorkelling in the middle of the day.</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">We arranged a haul out and had coffee with Alfred. He is a shrewd man . He used to grow peals for the Japanese and even sent his son Tony to Paris to learn about being a jeweller . However when the Chinese got involved the price dropped and he started the Carenage. He wanted to have a cafe and bar for the yachties, but was told that European regulations would have to apply regarding seating, disabled access ,toilets etc. Completely bonkers for a Pacific Atoll in the middle of nowhere and surprising that the French (who like rules only because they can break them) applied these ones.</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">On Wednesdaday Toni was a bit late getting the lift out organised so we arranged it for the next day and did some Jobs on Kika instead. John took another look at the shower pump which had baffled Colin and I. He gave the inlet pipe one big blow and triumphantly dislodged a wad of pubic hair( exhibit A - wrong colour for any current members of crew). We really need to glass in a pre filter on the bottom of the shower tray. When I had previously blown down the pipe air had bubbled out but obviously not well enough. We also changed the engine raw water impeller and after fiddling around with a few other things we seem to have got to the bottom of the snag list- hurray!</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">We eventually hauled out on Thursday 23 May. Tony led us in with his dinghy past the reefs and then snorkelled under the boat to position the pads on the trailer. He used a JCB to pull us up the slipway and then took the trailer away applying poles tapping the hull to check for the strong points. The pressure wash was not particularly powerful leaving quite a lot of flaking paint on the hull. It was a good job we came out . The Prop anode was very worn despite having been replaced in Panama and the prop cutter bearings and anode required replacing. Colin also banged out a seized seacock on the toilet outflow which we regreased. The bottom of the Joton tin had rusted causing a leak , so we lost a bit of anti fouling and just managed to get the tin to do the whole hull with judicious use of thinners. We finished the job in the heat of the day , got all the protective clothing off and jumped in the water to cool off before Toni put us expertly back in the water. The bill was probably half of what we would have been charged in Tahiti. </span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cxtN3DS1nY8/U49TArz5yVI/AAAAAAAABBk/mzKzucJOVnU/s1600/DSC_0059.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cxtN3DS1nY8/U49TArz5yVI/AAAAAAAABBk/mzKzucJOVnU/s1600/DSC_0059.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The last lift out was in Ireland, 11,000 sea miles away.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8DCt5swbfEY/U49Tms5xdPI/AAAAAAAABBs/4llHNGEmrOA/s1600/DSC_0090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8DCt5swbfEY/U49Tms5xdPI/AAAAAAAABBs/4llHNGEmrOA/s1600/DSC_0090.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">applying the finishing touch to the anti foul</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">That evening we were invited by Toni and Alfred to a family barbecue. We had a wonderful evening. The barbecue was cooked on coconut husks and the chicken and pork were absolutely delicious. We met a Turkish cruising couple, Salem and Nadine originally from Istanbul. Salem was an orthopaedic surgeon and chairman of his department. However he had left Turkey because of the political situation . The religious parties have taken over turning Turkey from a secular state into a theocracy and interfere with every aspect of life . He told us that 2 million people demonstrated against the government but we're bombed by their own troops. These events go largely unreported because the government owns the media. </span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">The following day John ,Colin and Susanne went snorkelling in beautifully clear water while I joined Alfred who went to the village to pick up his wife and first grand daughter from the plane arriving from Tahiti. While the girls were getting organised we banged about for 3 hours on the reef outside the atoll and eventually landed a large dorado. It reassured me that we were fishing the lures correctly, but we need to improve our tackle with heavier line , a steel trace and a bungee cord to absorb the shock of the first take. We returned to the Carenage with two grandmothers and a great grandmother . Little Colli who was just two months old sheltered under an oily and bounced about, laughing and smiling all the way . Obviously born to Life on a tropical atoll.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SoCumj9E9Ik/U49UuOOi5wI/AAAAAAAABB8/pf4E9tM4GRA/s1600/GOPR0029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SoCumj9E9Ik/U49UuOOi5wI/AAAAAAAABB8/pf4E9tM4GRA/s1600/GOPR0029.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crystal clear waters in Apataki</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7kVcA632pA4/U49Ut2l6YBI/AAAAAAAABB4/ksO_O98_dnw/s1600/GOPR0044.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7kVcA632pA4/U49Ut2l6YBI/AAAAAAAABB4/ksO_O98_dnw/s1600/GOPR0044.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">We left the Carenage on Saturday 25 May and had a lovely gentle sail downwind for 2 hours under genoa to enter the Southern pass and turn off into a lagoon near the village where we picked up a mooring. We had a stroll round the village and watched a spear throwing competition where the lads were throwing light spears underarm to hit a coconut on a very high pole. They were amazingly accurate .</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">We strolled past the airport where Colin stood on the runway waiting for a non existent plane to take him away and looked over the dock into amazingly clear water where we watched an octopus change colour as it reached a rock becoming indistinguishable from it's surroundings, with just a long tentacle emerging every so often to catch an unsuspecting fish . The village shop opened for an hour in the evening, so we turned up there to watch a middle aged lady dropping off from the back of her land rover a superb catch of dorado(mahi mahi in Polynesian ), bonito and a huge Tazar with evil looking jaws. She had caught them herself!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">Supplies were limited. No eggs or milk until the next boat but such is Island life and we were able to pick up some cold beers.</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">Sunday 26 May was a hard day. We were headed for Anse Mayo a little inlet on the North West coast of Taou a neighbouring atoll, lured by the prospect of a lobster restaurant ashore. It was only 23 miles but tacking into the wind with an adverse current in the afternoon was hard work. Susanne has a good feel for the wind and will make a good helms woman . As we approached Taou we ceased to make progress and ended up using the iron donkey (engine), lined up the leading marks and eventually picked up a buoy belonging to a restaurant owned by Gaston and Valentine that was unfortunately closed because it was Sunday and again on Monday because Valentine was recovering from an all night party on Sunday night. Goodbye lobster - but that's the way it is on an atoll! They open when they feel like it! No wonder they're worried about the Chinese. We met their pet booby bird instead who got very friendly while Valentine was stroking him , but pecked at the rest of us.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nmopAZ5H_Rw/U49V4qX9bZI/AAAAAAAABCM/Ytaz9gEz3LM/s1600/DSC_0336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nmopAZ5H_Rw/U49V4qX9bZI/AAAAAAAABCM/Ytaz9gEz3LM/s1600/DSC_0336.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Valentine and the bird!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">In the day we went snorkelling with the reef sharks ,Colin to his great joy found a rusty old Columbian machete ashore which he has bought on board together with a variety of coconuts that need splitting. We had the crew of our German neighbours over for dinner although Werner the skipper had moved from Germany to Vancouver 15 years ago.</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;">We left Toau on Tuesday 28 May in the afternoon setting off on a comfortable broad reach for Papeete , Tahiti, 230 miles away. The wind increased to 25 knots overnight so we took in a second reef, goose winged the Genoa and plan to arrive early on Thursday morning after a few hours of heaving to as we were whizzing along at 7 knots for a while. At first light on Thursday we picked up the bearing line through the reef for Papeete harbour , got called up by harbour control telling us we should have called 5 minutes earlier but finally giving us entry permission. We turned to port onto another set of leading marks just inside the entrance , found the yacht pontoon where we stern moored to the quay which was a bit of a performance as we had to change position and fouled our anchor on one of the lazy lines from our neighbours boat. The tripping hook my mother had bought me worked well and got us off .We're right in the centre of town which will be good for sorting everything out but today is a public holiday so plenty of time to chill. The pontoon even has fresh water - brilliant!</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: medium;" /></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02288143251258239365noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-40165504563491120522014-05-08T12:36:00.000-07:002014-05-08T12:36:35.850-07:00The Marquesas<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We had arrived at Hiva Oa on Easter Monday. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DPGz6VgZy_k/U2hSjU0wbOI/AAAAAAAAA7Y/SFrhs5D_aSg/s1600/DSC_0193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DPGz6VgZy_k/U2hSjU0wbOI/AAAAAAAAA7Y/SFrhs5D_aSg/s1600/DSC_0193.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Easter Monday dawns. Landfall.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7kWXeJWuYcE/U2hVLEXY3VI/AAAAAAAAA7k/vWa560kFiRA/s1600/DSC_0219.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7kWXeJWuYcE/U2hVLEXY3VI/AAAAAAAAA7k/vWa560kFiRA/s1600/DSC_0219.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After twenty five days at sea we can smell the land.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ToWz6FOLJrE/U2hYzFyyg2I/AAAAAAAAA7w/JLz2shD3Qlw/s1600/DSC_0273.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ToWz6FOLJrE/U2hYzFyyg2I/AAAAAAAAA7w/JLz2shD3Qlw/s1600/DSC_0273.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our anchorage, Hiva Oa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Our friends Martin and Bea from Heera came aboard and we surveyed the damage following our long passage of over 3000miles.. Two ripped sails, a jammed Duogen water impeller , a dodgy masthead light, a loose rudder casing, a blown inverter,a failed shower pump and a hull that looked like a trawler as it was covered in barnacles, especially Toledo worms towards the stern. It could have been a lot worse after over 3,000 miles of downwind pounding. But Rivals are tough boats and stand up to </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">punishment .</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D_3Qt6Ryb34/U2hb-DpGfDI/AAAAAAAAA78/wTJNqd-JgBo/s1600/DSC_0268.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D_3Qt6Ryb34/U2hb-DpGfDI/AAAAAAAAA78/wTJNqd-JgBo/s1600/DSC_0268.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kika, a little worse for wear.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We went ashore to a little hut where there was an outside freshwater shower - marvellous ! There was also internet access which you paid for both at the hut and in town at the post office. Both these facilities involved money up front and rubbish access. Very frustrating for all cruising folk unable to communicate with home.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ELKuBsecAAE/U2hgKe52foI/AAAAAAAAA8Q/GvT1gY6ADbA/s1600/DSC_0641.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ELKuBsecAAE/U2hgKe52foI/AAAAAAAAA8Q/GvT1gY6ADbA/s1600/DSC_0641.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The internet hut plus locals out for a paddle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ca3HBkFaFGM/U2hgEZBftHI/AAAAAAAAA8I/dYCM6WgCtFw/s1600/DSC_0661.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ca3HBkFaFGM/U2hgEZBftHI/AAAAAAAAA8I/dYCM6WgCtFw/s1600/DSC_0661.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Removing barnacles after weeks at sea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">The road to town is about a mile. The island and all the marquesas are like a big garden. Beautiful Hibiscus plants with different colours, bougainvillea flowers and many others grow everywhere. They have no scent and rely totally on outrageous colouring to attract insects.The trees grow Pamplamouse a sweet sort of grapefruit, bananas, coconuts, breadfruit, mangoes, limes, oranges and other fruits. There were surprisingly few flies but very large wasps that didn't seem too troublesome and many bees feeding on the flowers . The Islands are a bee keepers paradise with sunshine,warm temperatures , light winds and flowers all the year round.</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">In town we found the main bar (Maki Makis )run by an amiable Frenchman) and settled down to coconut water from a straw into the top of a green coconut that had been kept in the fridge - delicious! Combined with a couple of very cold beers. We had arrived! We followed it up with an excellent steak in the other restaurant which boasted internet access but only for its overnight guests ,not for people having a meal - grrrrr! </span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">On Tuesday 22 April we walked towards town early in the morning to stretch our legs in the cool of the day. The main road is concreted , the electricity supply is up to European standards and all public buildings are of good quality. The French are very much in charge, and seem to have had a bad conscience following the international outcry created by their nuclear testing at Mururoa atoll . The last test was in 1996 and you can still see ban the bomb signs painted on lamposts which encompass the views of the locals. There is a small naval base and gendarmerie on the island with French officers with the other ranks provided by the islanders. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">One of the few benefits of being in the EEC was that as British citizens we did not require a visa and did not have to leave a deposit in the way of a bond , like our American and Australian friends. We just filled in a form, handed over our documents to a smiling gendarme and that was that - amazing after the Panamanian and Ecuadorian pantomime.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">The town of Atuona has some 600 souls who are universally friendly. Last year there was an incident of cannibalism where a sailor got eaten, but as our Dutch friends explained he was German and well padded and therefore a very tempting target. Paul Gauguin the famous French painter spent the autumn days of his life here after leaving his wife and numerous children stranded in France without support. He had further Polynesian children and his pictures of both Brittany and Polynesia adorn his centre. The colours are very vivid. Sadly for Gauguin the pictures only accumulated in value after his death , so he died an impecunious wastrel. His grave is in the local cemetery.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We got on top of most of our snags, with good advice from Martin on sail repair . The Duogen impeller did not need new bearings, just freeing up with that magic stuff WD40. There was a poor connection on the masthead light that needed cleaning and stabilizing the bulb with a short length of water pipe. We postponed the rudder and cleaning the bottom until we were in a less rolly anchorage.</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We went off by taxi to see the island . Marie Jo the taxi lady took us along with the crews of Alba and Baraka to some of the archaeological sites and beautiful bays at the North end of the island. The only real cash crop from the island is copra . Coconut shells are left to dry out in the sun and then bagged and sent off to make coconut oil which fetches a good price. Fruit trees especially bananas grow everywhere but are mainly for local consumption. The local horses are quite slender but strong and the Marquesans are splendid bare back horsemen , good at controlling very jittery young horses. Goats graze most places and there are one or two cattle, but it is too hot for sheep. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WqNtw-j3tts/U2vOVhFSmBI/AAAAAAAAA-k/EKNEzsbsmRU/s1600/DSC_0358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WqNtw-j3tts/U2vOVhFSmBI/AAAAAAAAA-k/EKNEzsbsmRU/s1600/DSC_0358.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our friends from yachts Alba and Baraka</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-osQj5MtCkao/U2lTJo7dH-I/AAAAAAAAA9A/LfqPqYNG3Lg/s1600/DSC_0543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-osQj5MtCkao/U2lTJo7dH-I/AAAAAAAAA9A/LfqPqYNG3Lg/s1600/DSC_0543.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">The taxi took us through the mountains and rain forest area and down precarious single track dirt roads which wound down cliff faces to the beautiful bay of of Tau Mau. . There we visited the ancient religious site containing many statues with "tikis" (heads) and a large stone carved fish. 1500 years ago if you were a big cheese and had a lot of "mana" ( big in everything) you would be likely to get a tiki made. However if you were at the other end of the social scale the only time you would get into this religious site would be to end up on the slab as a human sacrifice. Colin climbed a pamplmouse tree at this sacred site and we took a load back to the boat with us. He will need to go to confession as soon as possible. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MFAm2pS5B5c/U2p-amaj9XI/AAAAAAAAA9c/NnXrva9g2CM/s1600/DSC_0370.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MFAm2pS5B5c/U2p-amaj9XI/AAAAAAAAA9c/NnXrva9g2CM/s1600/DSC_0370.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With pamplamouse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Down in the bay there were then stone remains of an old plantation house. In the 18th century the French bought large numbers of black people from Martinique and Chinese as indentured labour to work the land. However erratic rainfall and droughts made the plantations fail and the population of the Islands went from 18,000 to around 6,000 native Polynesians who stayed on. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KbLCZKY-yoQ/U2fpF1MemTI/AAAAAAAAA6M/vUaM0dFKnY4/s1600/DSC_0563.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KbLCZKY-yoQ/U2fpF1MemTI/AAAAAAAAA6M/vUaM0dFKnY4/s1600/DSC_0563.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The religious site, Me'ae Lipona</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0vRBTqlIjdM/U2fqN2_-C7I/AAAAAAAAA6U/IJuPlvnNRlc/s1600/DSC_0582.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0vRBTqlIjdM/U2fqN2_-C7I/AAAAAAAAA6U/IJuPlvnNRlc/s1600/DSC_0582.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three men with big Tikis</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u6KwG1cA-Uc/U2fsC-gfa4I/AAAAAAAAA6o/zs0CuUjR844/s1600/DSC_0575.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u6KwG1cA-Uc/U2fsC-gfa4I/AAAAAAAAA6o/zs0CuUjR844/s1600/DSC_0575.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Is it a fish?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vmh64iM4e9Q/U2frdCDaLTI/AAAAAAAAA6g/idtQqFTxFxQ/s1600/DSC_0576.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vmh64iM4e9Q/U2frdCDaLTI/AAAAAAAAA6g/idtQqFTxFxQ/s1600/DSC_0576.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mary Jo is our tour guide</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iO9r0bpk62U/U2fw_sPk87I/AAAAAAAAA64/QAJLQDVQqJo/s1600/DSC_0587.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iO9r0bpk62U/U2fw_sPk87I/AAAAAAAAA64/QAJLQDVQqJo/s1600/DSC_0587.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and this is the area for human sacrifice </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We had a splendid lunch of local food . Particularly delicious was the poison cru . Marinaded fresh fish in coconut milk with onion , cucumber and tomato blended in and eaten cold. It was great to talk to experienced cruising folk like David and Jan from Baraka who had already been around once and strongly recommended Vanuatu as a place to visit. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K2wUShEJgQ0/U2qDoXs6RgI/AAAAAAAAA-U/LRv3kJIoxlg/s1600/DSC_0480.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K2wUShEJgQ0/U2qDoXs6RgI/AAAAAAAAA-U/LRv3kJIoxlg/s1600/DSC_0480.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No shortage of wind!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fFT21NA2MiQ/U2qDQem2HMI/AAAAAAAAA-M/9rfcR3xQ9Cg/s1600/DSC_0479.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fFT21NA2MiQ/U2qDQem2HMI/AAAAAAAAA-M/9rfcR3xQ9Cg/s1600/DSC_0479.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The northern coast of Hiva Oa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MOuV53hgKDs/U2qBl0XiejI/AAAAAAAAA9w/7Y0rZ2oK8UM/s1600/DSC_0475.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MOuV53hgKDs/U2qBl0XiejI/AAAAAAAAA9w/7Y0rZ2oK8UM/s1600/DSC_0475.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peter showing off his beard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We said goodbye to Ceri , who sadly has to return to work on the 28th April. We couldn't have wished for a better shipmate for the long 3,000 mile haul than Ceri known to his close mates as the enteropath ! (Look it up in a medical dictionary)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We hauled anchor on 26 April and went around the corner to Tahuata Island where we anchored in a beautiful sheltered bay with a sandy shore lined by Palm trees. Idyllic! We got the dinghy out. Pete scrubbed the top sides while Colin and I dived under the boat to do the bottom. Everything looked good. The anodes were all in position , the rudders attachment to the skeg was solid and we managed to get nearly all the barnacles off. At the end of it Kika looked respectable again .</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JupM6TIvd7w/U2vWZB76OPI/AAAAAAAAA-w/qO0yx9hjRwE/s1600/DSC_0666.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JupM6TIvd7w/U2vWZB76OPI/AAAAAAAAA-w/qO0yx9hjRwE/s1600/DSC_0666.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bay where cleaned Kika and swam ashore to hunt coconuts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N-O-kgd1MAw/U2fz_n126hI/AAAAAAAAA7A/LzRP0CsUoks/s1600/DSC_0937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N-O-kgd1MAw/U2fz_n126hI/AAAAAAAAA7A/LzRP0CsUoks/s1600/DSC_0937.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kika at sunset, Tahuata Island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--d4evLrx5vw/U2p5eg8jpII/AAAAAAAAA9Q/VVZ6FRL07HQ/s1600/DSC_0866.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--d4evLrx5vw/U2p5eg8jpII/AAAAAAAAA9Q/VVZ6FRL07HQ/s1600/DSC_0866.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">and the anchorage by day.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We went snorkelling with Neville from Alba who told us how to improve our free diving technique. You relax totally on the surface taking long slow breaths to hyper oxygenate . Then dive down with the aid of a 3lb weight belt and fins performing the valsalva manoeuvre and equalizing ear pressure all the way down . Colin swam under the keel and I got down to the anchor. Snorkelling on the reef there were large Manta Rays cruising about and some white tipped sharks in the distance. The reef fish are a fantastic variety of colours.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">On 27 April we went a further 3 miles South to the main bay of the island where there was a small village Vaitahu the capital. In the morning we dinghies ashore to go shopping and discovered there was no beer or much else as the supply ship </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">from Tahiti had not arrived! We met Marie Christine and her husband Jean who showed us round and took us for lunch </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">on their small holding. The Catholic Church was entirely built by the islanders. It is beautiful. The stonework is of excellent quality as is the stained glass window. The wood carvings on the lectern and were superb and incorporated ancient local tradition. There is also a small archaeology museum from an American dig which descended in layers through different epochs. The migration of the Polynesian people from China to Fiji, Tonga, Tahiti and finally the Marquesas was routed. Looking around the island faces there are some Chinese features.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rOJlLQOnloU/U2fnSo7WfXI/AAAAAAAAA6E/4Oo5SimcnpU/s1600/DSC_0747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rOJlLQOnloU/U2fnSo7WfXI/AAAAAAAAA6E/4Oo5SimcnpU/s1600/DSC_0747.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Catholic church..</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-90Hq_rAWzho/U2fm3O3G6SI/AAAAAAAAA58/6yfwxTe1jf8/s1600/DSC_0941.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-90Hq_rAWzho/U2fm3O3G6SI/AAAAAAAAA58/6yfwxTe1jf8/s1600/DSC_0941.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">..in a peaceful setting.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Marie Christine was a very youthful grandmother capable of climbing orange trees for us at her own grandmothers house . Her grandchildren therefore had a great great grandmother still alive! We walked up to their small holding, met the pigs goats,poultry, dogs and cats all of whom got on very peaceably and after shaking down a few coconuts from the tree had coconut juice cooled down with ice and a splendid lunch of poison cru and red snapper. Marie Christine's dad is the village fisherman.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">After lunch we walked up with Jean and Marie Christine to a cross overlooking the bay . There were some good quality Hereford cross cattle grazing on the top, but when it's dry their owner has to carry water to them every day in his jeep. At the top we gazed at the magnificent view with Kika in the middle of the sparkling bay. We had a good chat. Island life is hard because there are not many sources of income generation. They would like a motor vehicle but couldn't afford it. Their children start at primary school on the island and then go to board at secondary school in Hiva Oa, coming back for long holiday weekends and the school holidays. Apparently they don't get homesick but have a whale of a time away from parental discipline. University is an option for some and can be in Tahiti, France or America but is pretty expensive and beyond most families budgets. Not many graduates return. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">At home they speak a melange of French and Marquesan. Their generation were forced to speak French in school and punished for speaking Polynesian which they resented. However encouraged by some American scholars who compiled a proper dictionary there has been a language revival and all their children speak Marquesan at school. Just like Wales! The language has only 12 or so letters and sounds quite guttural. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">They were both very curious about Kika and all it's gadgets when they came aboard for a look round and it was great fun spending the day with them.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vDOOWeDRw30/U2lPSURaP5I/AAAAAAAAA8o/QBEV4Xj39qs/s1600/DSC_0924_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vDOOWeDRw30/U2lPSURaP5I/AAAAAAAAA8o/QBEV4Xj39qs/s1600/DSC_0924_2.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marie Christine and Jean aboard Kika</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">On the anchorage we met Dave and Catriona from Crosshaven in Cork who play the squeeze box and flute respectively . I bought the fiddle over and we had a great evening playing Irish music, it was also good to look at their fishing tackle which has 200 lb line , steel traces and a bungee cord in the middle to take the strain of the fish when it first bites. </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We need to revise our tackle as we are losing too many lures on the first take. During the day we had a serious go at the rudder stock casing. Colin managed to squeeze himself into an almost upside down position in the stern locker and was able to get a socket spanner underneath the flange holding nuts which we took out and re greased. Three out of four tightened up brilliantly and we're pretty sure the rudder is secure now so the snag list has fallen dramatically! </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2UH4EpWBMhM/U2lQ9Z8eiRI/AAAAAAAAA80/xxoZW8c3ip4/s1600/DSC_0682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2UH4EpWBMhM/U2lQ9Z8eiRI/AAAAAAAAA80/xxoZW8c3ip4/s1600/DSC_0682.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not for eating..this one went back!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" />
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">On the evening of the 30th April after a brief stop at our favourite snorkelling bay we set off on an overnight passage for Ua Poa some 62 miles away. The wind was a steady 10-15 knots with a lovely beam reach under a star studded sky creaming along at 5-6 knots . We arrived in the morning in the main town Hakahau in the North with a spectacular background to the anchorage of a ring of mountains and huge gherkin like rock structures poking up into the clouds. The town was largely shut down because it was the Mayday holiday, however we found a bar for lunch and Pete sniffed out a shop that was open even selling beers. </span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">At 6 am on the 2 may the wind came round to the east and we set off on an easy 25mile day sail to Nuku Hiva which may even have good internet! We arrived in the huge bay of </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Taiohae</span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;"> which could anchor a fleet of warships and went ashore to the land of plenty.</span><br />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" />
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02288143251258239365noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1351540261537075998.post-38669514851515471232014-04-28T20:19:00.000-07:002014-04-28T20:19:50.136-07:00Bahia de Caraquez to the Marquesas via the Galapagos<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Apologies for the lack of photography on this bog, but it is impossible at present to get a decent wi fi with enough speed to download photos either in the Galapagos or here in Hiva Oa</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We left Bahia at 13.00 on Tuesday 11March, with Colin, Andrew,Peter,Ceri and I as crew. Pedro and Carlos piloted us through the surf at the narrow entrance to the bay. Our depth gauge was reading 0.2 metres below the keel for a while. </span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Our 630 mile passage took 7 days in fairly light winds which meant motoring around 50 % of the time. We had used most of the fuel containers on deck by the time we reached the Galapagos. To get it from 20 litre container into the tank you use a Jiggly siphon which consists of a small ball in a cage which you rattle to generate the necessary vacuum. Much better than sucking the diesel up the pipe where you inevitably get a mouthful. We then pass it through a fine mesh filter which proved necessary as some paint residues from one of the containers arrived on the filter.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Peter has re organised the fishing tackle ,with heavier braided lines and a fish alert system that involves winding the line round the winch that gives us a very audible zing when a fish takes. As a result after a couple wriggled free we landed a magnificent blue fin tuna. Peters boneless filleting technique sprang into action,and we had tuna sushi with wasabi sauce for lunch, plus tuna stakes for the fridge- marvellous.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Ceri's 59th birthday was spent at sea. All the poor chap got from the rest of the crew was an extra helping of dessert! </span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">As we approached the Galapagos, we began to see increasing numbers of birds, dolphins followed us for a while and we saw double finned Manta Rays jumping out of the water to clear the lice. To avoid arriving at Puerto Villamil in the dark we hove to until 4 in the morning. This is a very comfortable manoeuvre involving backing the genoa and lashing the wheel to ensure a stable boat and minimal progress . It can get you out of trouble in all sorts of situations and is favoured by single handers.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We arrived in the beautiful anchorage of Puerto Villamil, Isla Isabela at 10am on Tuesday 18th of March. On radio instructions from the local agent "JC" . We picked up a buoy and then went ashore to meet him. He informed us that there was a new port Captain and that we could only stay 24 -72 hours unless we thought of a good excuse. Within a short period he told us things had changed and that we could stay for 20 days, provided we submitted ourselves to open wallet surgery with a variety of fees and charges amounting to around $1000 in total. After an inspection on board and a morning at the port captains office we were finally free to escape the clutches of Ecuadorian beurocracy and enjoy the Island. At least on this island the navy don't have a diver so they can't inspect your hull.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">When you step ashore from your dinghy , the dock and benches are covered with sea lions who ignore you completely and perform comic turns with each other. Marine Iguanas lie in wait on the footpath, and Galapagos Penguins perch on the rocks looking at your berthing manoeuvres with a superior air. None of the wildlife has any fear of humans.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">The town itself is fairly small. Provisioning is tricky because of short supplies which come periodically by freighter and are then ferried ashore on large rafts. After a few days in the shops fresh produce is either non existent or what you would normally throw out. We couldn't find decent meat anywhere until on our last day we were directed down a side street to a couple of doors normally closed. The lady sawed off some beef from a huge bit of haunch and we got the front half of a chicken that just needed deboning to turn into breasts. The price was also half the exorbitant shop rate! Just shows if you hang around long enough you find out what the locals do to survive.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">There were plenty of large cruising boats on the anchorage mainly heading for the Marquesas. Neville on a boat called Alba has arranged a cruisers net on the Single Side Band radio at 12 Midday Ecuador time , 1800 Zulu (Greenwich mean time) that will be particularly useful to us as we have not been able to solve why the pactor modem fails to send messages in the outbox. So we can't get weather or do Emails at sea. Cruising boats also tend to share information and resources which is a handy way to do things when there are no chandleries ashore.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We had a wonderful day driving into the interior of the island which was quite green as rain is precipitated by the height of the volcano at 1,000 metres. We then walked 16 kilometres along a path that took us above the enormous crater of the volcano that had last erupted in 2005. The crater was 10 kilometres in diameter and is just beaten in size by one in Tanzania. It was great walking at 1000 metres, the air was cooler especially starting at 7 am ,butterflies, finches flew around our heads and land based iguanas occasionally poked their noses out of fissures in the volcanic rock. The air temperature made it just like walking along on a summers day back home. We walked across the moonscape of the 2005 eruption on the side of the main caldera. The fragments of volcanic ash contained many colours including shiny aluminium, copper, ferrous deposits and many other rare earth elements. The streams of molten lava had solidified from the cooler outside inwards leaving long rock tunnels, and we peered deep into holes made by multiple small eruptions. Apparently Vulcanologists monitor the height of the main crater which is pushed up by the magma core underneath the earth. It sinks back after an eruption, and then gradually rises. At present it has risen 2 metres; they will start to get worried when it reaches 5 metres.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We took a fast ferry to the main island Santa Cruz mainly to visit a cash machine, non existent on Isabela despite the presence of several local banks who do not dispense cash to tourists. The 40 miles takes 2 hours in a speedboat with 3 huge 300 horse power Yamaha petrol outboard engines. The main town Puerto Ayora is much busier and more commercialised than Villamil with numerous shops selling tours. We hired bicycles and cycled to the Darwin Research Centre . This was something of a disappointment. There was a display area warning about global warming and species reduction on the Galapagos, but almost nothing about Darwin and why the Galapagos allowed him to come up with his theory of evolution and no real celebration of the unique plant and animal life on these Islands. There were a lot of air conditioned research department offices sponsored by North American and European Universities that seemed to come up with fairly indifferent publications every 5 years or so. The only people we saw working were some American Volunteers in the greenhouse.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Nevertheless there was an interesting display of how the beaks of Darwin's finches had varied according to the different sources of food on different islands which had helped him work out the principle of natural selection, and there were some giant tortoises looking pretty grumpy in their compound. However at 175 years of age they had seen it all before.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">In the late afternoon we strolled down a 2 kilometre path through some cacti that had developed tree bark at their base and swam on a great surfing beach surrounded by sea birds including Boobies which are gannet like in appearance and flight, and the ever present terra-dactyl like frigate bird that robs 70% of its food off other birds. Colin made friends with a pair of iguanas.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We said goodbye to Andrew the next day. He had celebrated his departure until 4 am with Colin in some local night spots. At 67 he looked fresh as a daisy at breakfast compared with Col who had developed oesophagitis and the rest of the "younger " crew who had gone to bed early. Truly a man with an iron constitution who also managed to run his business with Skype calls at 5am Galapagos time.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Back on Isabela, Colin ,Ceri and I went diving for a day off a neighbouring island , on the promise of hammerhead sharks. The dive wasn't easy.there were 8 people on it with only one dive master, visibility was poor and Ceri who had only done 3 dives before was issued with a Buoyancy Control Device that didn't inflate properly which resulted in him nearly sinking when he came to the surface. I saw a turtle in the distance and Colin reckoned he glimpsed some sharks. One of the divers happened to be an instructor and reckoned it was the worst dive she had been on. We didn't have much to compare it with.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We had a much better time the following day when we took a boat out to Los Tunnelos, Volcanic Reefs that had formed tunnels through which the sea passed.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We went snorkelling and were privileged to see huge sea turtles , grazing on the sea bed with small fishes around them gobbling up the displaced algae. These huge creatures were 150 -200 years old and took absolutely no notice of us as we snorkelled to within a foot of them. We dived into caves where White tipped sharks lurked and the whole reef was crawling with fish like an ultimate tropical fish tank.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Ashore standing above the lava tunnels there was an interesting mixture of plants. Cacti and mangrove thriving on fresh water, together with lichens and grasses that metabolised salt water. The fissures in the larva rock had produced different microclimates. Blue footed booby birds unique to the Galapagos perched happily on the rocks preening themselves, next to Galapagos Penguins who come as far north as the Galápagos Islands because of the cold Humbolt current from the south.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Our scouring of the shops for provisions continued. We eventually managed to get some black market fuel off our agent. It arrived clandestinely by truck at night and we transferred it in twenty litre containers by dinghy to the boat at low water which was tricky because of the large number of rocks around the anchorage. It was impossible to get our butane gas bottles filled as the island was on propane and there were no small propane bottles to buy. So we will need to be very careful about gas use over the 30 days to the Marquesas.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">After finally obtaining our exit Zarpa ( the computer had broken down , and they were two days behind doing things manually! ) we set sail for the Marquesas on the afternoon of March 27th . We spent the morning diving under the boat and cleaning the hull and prop. A considerable amount of weed had accumulated in just over a week on the anchorage. The bottom of the dinghy was similarly coated, however it is now much easier to pull the dinghy out of the water as we can pull it up using our handy billy pulley system attached to the main halliard. </span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Our first afternoon at sea was spent beam reaching in a pleasant local sea breeze, reflecting on the Galapagos. The Ecuadorian government are obviously trying to limit the flow of visitors to protect the wildlife by making the Islands a top dollar destination . While we could see the logic of this position and accepted the need to charge more money, the sea of beurocracy and endless petty regulations that were flouted by the locals on a regular basis just created an unnecessary pantomime , with agents in the middle raking in fees just to help navigate the system. The topography and wildlife of these Islands remains unique and we were privileged to see it .</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">The wind soon died as we went into the inter tropical conversion zone( doldrums by any other name) . Neville called us up on VHF radio with a prediction that we would have to go about 5 degrees ( 300 miles South ) before reaching reliable trade winds. This proved entirely correct as we sailed, motor sailed , and motored using what wind we could. Three days later, by the time we reached the trades we had been motoring for 39 hours albeit on low revs. Prior to getting into the trades we entered an area called the variables where the wind came from a variety of directions, with frequent squalls and downpours. In one of these the ultra violet strip on the foresail ripped, so there was nothing for it but getting the sail down on the foredeck, and then stitching the ripped fragments in place and then taping them over. This took about 3 hours getting fried on the foredeck , after which we were knackered . Fortunately Ceri had fried up Chicken Fahitas for dinner after which we were properly restored. </span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">In 4 days we have seen only one other ship a freighter. The Dutch Captain called us on the VHF . He was a yachtsman himself and wanted to know that we were all OK. </span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">He wanted to know where we were going and wished us fair winds for the voyage to the Marquesas. </span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Monday 31 March was a lovely day . We had reached 6 degrees South . The SE Trade winds strengthened to 12 knots and we cruised along with a poled out goose winged genoa at 5 knots. The sun was shining and all was well. Our radio net is frustrating . We can only faintly hear the other boats apart from Grace who is around 30 miles from us, so we couldn't get a weather forecast, so Colin's satellite phone is a godsend. Colin was able to speak with his daughter Jenny who was moving back to Berlin and I spoke to Bridget and ordered a new bulb for the main compass light which has blown. We saw another boat that looked like a whaler with a tall observation tower and huge derricks on the back. At the same time we saw the spout of a whale blowing off in the distance. We hoped the crew didn't spot it. Ceri has seen a pod of Orca whales but Colin remains skeptical.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">At night there is a new gibbous moon ,so the stars are very bright. In the South one can see the Southern Cross straddled by the giant constellation of Centaurus striding across the sky, while it's still possible to see Ursa Major(the plough) in the North ,however the pole star has dropped below the northern horizon. Orion which is in the South at home now lies directly overhead. The Milky Way is very vivid and with the binoculars you can see the thousands of stars in it. Occasionally shooting stars cross the sky.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">The boats wake creates a myriad of phosphorescent stars so sitting out on night watch in a cool breeze , with just your thoughts for company is a real pleasure.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Tuesday April1 appropriately named April fools day as we awoke to rising winds and heavy squalls of rain. We took in one reef where I stupidly lost my specs overboard as they were caught by a flogging genoa sheet. At 11 am the wind was rising at 25 knots (Force 6)so we took in a second reef without incident. We beam reached in overcast rainy conditions with a fairly big swell occasionally breaking into the cockpit. Cooking below was difficult so Pete did stew in the pressure cooker that worked well . Our carrots which never looked good when we bought them are going soft at a rapid rate so we will need to eat them up. We can't understand what's happened to those balmy trade wind conditions! </span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Wednesday April 2 was a much better day. The wind had moderated to 16-20 knots so we shook out a reef . The motion is more comfortable, and we are doing at least 6.5 knots over the ground. Yesterday we managed over 140 nautical miles. Only 2400 miles to go ! </span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">When we slowed down to reef there was a zing on the line . Ceri and Colin pulled in a beautiful Dorado , which I filleted using Pete's technique. Ceri then cooked Dorado fried in batter, a mayonnaise sauce with lime and ginger in it, sautéed potatoes and green beans for dinner. It was voted best meal of the trip so far. Pete says Dorado is very expensive in top restaurants. </span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">The sail repair has come undone, so we will have to redo it when the weather improves. We probably needed to stitch on the tape. The mast head light is now flickering, and we lost a bucket overboard, so we have strengthened the rope carrying the remaining one by making new holes in the plastic rim with a hot knife. As ever on passage the snag list grows. But we are heartened by steady trade wind progress and hope it keeps up.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Thursday April 3. Steady progress in 20 knot winds. Our noon position showed 150 miles run yesterday, a record! We spoke to Sailing Vessel Grace on the radio net this morning. She is some 60 miles ahead of us and gave us a weather report that indicates steady SE trade winds for at least the next 3 days. Apart from the woodwork joint between the engine cross section and Colin's bunk coming apart and banging in rolly conditions all is well. Some repair jobs are too difficult in rolly conditions and will have to wait for an anchorage.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">April 5 . My 60th Birthday . Had a lovely day . Spoke to Bridget on Colin's satellite phone. Colin provided tea for breakfast and fruit cocktail plus chocolate and coffee at dinner , finished off with an episode of Michael Palin around the world in 80 days. What more could a man ask for!</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We've been making steady progress of 140-150 miles a day, helped by the South Equatorial Current that runs West at 1-2 knots. Some of to the fresh food has gone mouldy . It's important to identify fruit, potatoes or carrots that are going off to separate them from other stores and either eat them straight away or throw them out if too far gone. We haven't found a good way of keeping carrots. Wrapping in silver foil just seemed to retain moisture and leaving them untouched on the vegetable rack didn't work either. Cabbage and onions last really well ( ideal ingredients for a stir fry.) </span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Because of limited water , we tend to have a proper wash on the foredeck with a salt water bucket shower and hair wash plus shave every 3-4 days. You can get a lather in salt water using either salt water shampoo or Johnson's baby soap which. doesn't hurt your eyes. I'm convinced that with less frequent washing in salt water we smell less. Soap and all the anti perspirants we normally apply must deprive the skin of its natural anti bacterial oils and encourage smelly bacteria in body crevices. It would be interesting to do a study, comparing salt water washes under one armpit with all the usual preparations under another. Interestingly salt water doesn't seem to make you sore either.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Apart from sailing the boat, life is a series of daily checks. Above deck for chafe on ropes or sails. Examining the rigging every day . Pumping out bilge and holding tank water. Deploying the water maker during the day when there is extra charge from solar power, and checking all systems are working.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">April 6/7th. We're continuing to make steady progress of around 140 miles a day. Yesterday morning when the swell had eased a bit Colin and I got into the engine compartment and put several large screws into a bulkhead that was coming loose and was making alarming banging noises when the sea was rough. It seemed to work fine. We tested it out last night when the wind got up to 30 knots right in the middle of Michael Palins around the world in 80 days (cockpit evening video)which we had to terminate early to get on the foredeck and take in a second reef. With reduced sail the Aries Wind Vane coped very well however nobody slept very well as we were being thrown around in quite a big sea. The important thing in a blow is to get both the foresail and the mainsail rigidly fixed in position with guys to the genoa pole and preventers to the main with everything sheeted in tight to prevent flogging and chafe.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We have now left the Galapagos Petrels behind. They had an interesting habit of dipping their feet in the water as they flew presumably to collect algae and are affectionately named Mother Cary's Chickens by generations of British sailors. The current petrels are larger and do more acrobatics. We also had a visit from a solitary egret who perched on our Bimini for a rest. At over a thousand miles from any land, who knows where he was heading? We haven't seen another vessel for over 6 days now as we are completely out of the shipping lanes, so it's good to be able to say hello to other boats albeit 300 miles away on the midday check in on the cruisers SSB radio net.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">April 8/9 . Conditions for the past two days have been rougher with 20-25 knot winds and sometimes confused seas. When the local wind is at odds with the main swell, waves sometimes hit the boat beam on drenching everyone in the cockpit and causing the cook to swear as the boat rocks to 60 degrees and stuff goes on the floor. Two reefs in the main and a slightly reefed poled out genoa seem to keep us stable. </span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">The Aries Wind Vane is a remarkable device . Invented by Blondie Hasler the commander of the Royal Marine Cockleshell raid in WW2, the vane steers the boat using only the power of the wind. The vane is deflected from the vertical by the wind moving to one side or the other. This then moves a gearing that causes the wind vane rudder to rotate within its tube. This rotation then allows the water running past the boat to move the wind vane rudder to port or starboard with much greater force pulling lines that are attached to the steering wheel. It's often better than a helmsman , requires minimal maintenance, and means we don't have to switch the engine on to maintain power.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We keep in touch with other boats via the SSB radio net at midday and although everyone is grumbling about the rolly conditions we are all making steady progress towards the Marquesas. There is a sweepstake out on our arrival time . We are now over half way and Ceri appears to be the hot favourite at a 25 day passage.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">April 10-13. The wind has gradually moderated together with the seas, ensuring better sleeping but also a slower average speed of just over 5 knots. We've had a close look at the rudder which is making clunking noises. The casing enclosing the rudder tube is moving from side to side. It has a flange attached to a horizontal piece of glassed in ply with some machine screws with nuts on the underside side. There seems to be movement next to the shaft of the bolts. Access in the stern locker is dreadful. With Colin inside the locker , just able to get a ring spanner on the nuts on the undersurface we were unable to shift them as they were seized in position on the bolts. We therefore fashioned a plywood brace on both sides that has wedged the rudder tube in position and virtually stopped the movement. When we get the boat to Tahiti we will get the boat out of the water for anti fouling and changing the anodes. We had better take a close look at the bottom end of the rudder for movement and maybe seek professional help if the job is too difficult.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">When it comes to snags it never rains it pours. We got our old spinnaker out in the light airs today . The combination of spinnaker and main gave us over six knots. Sadly our joy was short lived as the foot of the sail caught over the pulpit light giving us a large rip in the base of the spinnaker and another vertical tear, too big to repair at sea. So we will have to try and find a sailmaker in Tahiti to see if it is possible to do a professional repair .</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">On the positive side we caught a couple of small tuna , one in the morning and one in the evening. The fried fillets were lovely for lunch on two days. I've also made reasonable whole meal bread. The secret seems to be allowing the yeast to prove by adding it to warm water and sugar and checking it bubbles prior to adding it to the flour for kneading. Our water maker is working well and keeping the tank topped up and the Duogen propellor keeps the batteries charged at night. We don't use it in rough weather for fear of damaging the shaft. We have finished our fresh produce apart from potatoes, onions and eggs which have kept well and the fresh meat is nearly finished. Not bad for nearly three weeks at sea. It's time to start spicing up the tins.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">April 14-18 </span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">On the evening of the 14th at 1130 pm local time ,we were privileged to see a total lunar eclipse . The earths shadow gradually covered a full moon until you could just see a penumbra of light around the edge of the moon. Then for a while the moon glowed red as the red spectrum of light curved round the edge of the earth to illuminate it. Finally after about an hour of total eclipse ,the opposite side of the moon started to reappear as the rather smudgy shadow of the earth crossed it. It was all over by 1.30 am on my watch. The eclipse was only visible in the Southern Pacific - lucky us! </span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">The winds have lightened to 9 -13 knots which has slowed progress. Kika always has less canvas in light airs than larger boats. On the morning of 20 th April , we decided to try and speed things up with the parasailor. As we put the engine on to reef the main, the oil pressure alarm sounded. We switched off and went below to investigate. Another of the pipes from the oil filter had burst off , spraying the sump with most of the engine oil. Colin and I spent the next two hours relocating pipes with additional jubilee clips for safety , refilling the engine and cleaning up stripped to our underpants. We got the parasail up only to find the wind so light we had to engine it. Peter gave a shout , there was a loud bang and smoke by the chart table seat. We switched off and investigated. The engine appeared to have overcharged the inverter and I was convinced the voltage regulator off the alternator had blown.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Finally got back on deck to find a tear in the parasail. Colin and I got the sail down and repaired the rip with tape. We then investigated all the wiring and the regulator all of which looked OK and finally collapsed in the cockpit . I could have done with a large Gin and Tonic. Snags definitely seem to come in threes!</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Sunday 20th April</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">What a difference a day makes. After a good kip and a look at the manual, we put the regulator through its test cycle - definitely working ! Hurray! The alternator was generating high amperage for a prolonged period because the batteries just hadn't had a decent charge for ages.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We spoke to Martin on the Dutch boat Hera on the radio net. He had just arrived in Hiva Oa and gave us valuable information on the anchorage . </span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">At 2.30 in the afternoon Ceri on watch spotted land. Fatu Hiva on the port beam and Hiva Oa dead ahead towering out of the mist. After 25 days at sea we are nearly there. It's been a pleasure mainly because Colin, Ceri and Pete have been great company and have been a brilliant crew. We've eaten well and all survived with no significant injuries.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Our plan now is to proceed slowly under sail at 3 knots , heave to if necessary overnight and enter Atuona bay at first light. The anchorage is quite crowded with most boats on bow and stern anchors because of the swell so it will be good sort it out in the day and dinghy ashore for lunch. Ceri thinks he can just see the head on the beer through his powerful binoculars.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><span style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;">We entered the spectacular bay of Atuona port at 6 am with the early morning sun catching the enormous green clad mountains. A large pod of dolphins escorted us in and as we rounded the breakwater we saw our friends Martin and Bea in Heera who indicated a good spot to anchor . We dropped the hook using both bow and stern anchors in fairly crowded conditions and after tidying up went for lunch ashore . It was great to be in French Polnesia.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /><br style="font-family: Helvetica; text-align: -webkit-auto;" /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02288143251258239365noreply@blogger.com3